Why not post that same refined question to eBay?

Maybe like this,

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw..._odkw=gravely+-beads+-gemstones+-necklaces+-haunting++-copper&_sop=10&_osacat=0

If that does not statisfy your needs look for Kohler replacement parts with Google, and you can find suppliers such as this, http://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/

Even us old dogs can sometimes learn some new tricks.

Roger,

 

The aftermarket stuff is fine. I did a major overhaul of a k301 using Stens/Rotary parts. It runs fine.

Here are some Kohler prices

k301 rod - .010 $111.43
K301 .030 piston with rings - $129.71
K301 head gasket - $12.00

After market (Rotary/Stens)
K301 rod - .010 $- 18.95
K301 piston with rings - $25.90
Head gasket - $3.52

Just on those three parts alone, you save about $200

Pat's has OEM and aftermarket. Jacks does too.

http://www.psep.biz
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/

 

I have read I need a Kohler head gasket and seal, so I guess I should get a mixed kit,

Kohler gaskets

and

Aftermarket piston and con. rod


Should I get regular or stellite valves!!?? :dunno:

Kohler or aftermarket valves!!?? :dunno:

 

I went with stellite aftermarket valves.

I didn't use anything Kohler on my rebuild. All of the parts came from Pat's.

On my engine I had the crank turned, the cylinder bored and honed and the valve seats ground. The valve guides were still good. They even hot tanked the block. Total cost for machining was a little over $150. Total parts cost was about $150 including crank bearings. When I got the block back, the valves were installed and set, the cylinder honed and cleaned. All I had to do was assemble it.

Before I started the rebuild I measured the bore and crank to determine what size piston and connecting rod I needed. Then I bought the piston and rest of the parts. I sent the block with the valves, connecting rod, crank and piston to the machine shop.

While I was waiting for the block to come back I cleaned and painted the covers, overhauled the carb with new throttle shaft bushings, needle and seat, new pigtails on the stator, etc.

After assembly I fired it on the bench. It started immediately.

When an engine has been neglected and has over 3000 hours on it, lots of things wear. No sense in doing it half way.

I spent about $400 on the engine by the time I got done. If I had used OEM parts the total would have been $600+

Just the exhaust valve from Kohler is $51 at Jacks. A Rotary stellite valve from Pat's was $14.

All in all, if I factored in my time at a modest $10 per hour, I could have bought an engine. What makes it worth rebuilding is the extra costs to put a proper exhaust system on it. I don't like how water pipe exhaust systems look.

Thanks to the machine shop, it was the easiest rebuild I ever did.

 

One more thing. I sprung for a gasket kit. I am not sure the gasket kit makes a lot a sense. There are gaskets included that you may not use. I wound up with extra stuff. One more bit of advice. Avoid the use of RTV. I wish I had - especially on the pan gasket.

 

I pulled the head and pan off the K-301.

The engine had a hard time running, like it had low compression, before I took it out.

The bore is perfect. There seems to be about 0.005" slop between the piston and bore, is that normal? I can easily move the piston side to side.

Can the bore be too smooth? It is so slick I would almost worry about new rings seating. No ridge (none - 0) at the top or bottom.

I can not find any mark on the top of the piston, is that typical?

I would bet $20 the pan was never off. There were no balance gears, is that the way some engines came?

The rod seems tight except for a slight amount of side play.

More dis-assembly and cleaning tomorrow!!

Anything besides valves, piston, rings and gaskets I should replace while I got it open??

 

Before you go any further into it, I would suggest that you stop and really evaluate the engine. Are you certain that:

The carb is adjusted correctly?
The air cleaner is not clogged.
It has new points and condenser
The fuel is fresh and the fuel filter isn't clogged.


As long as you have the pan off, is the ACR (automatic compression release) mechanism working?

Is the exhaust valve good? I have a K301 here that was run too lean and burnt the exhaust valve. After I replace the exhaust valve it ran good.

If it had low compression due to worn rings, it should have a ton of blowby and should be burning oil.

 

Before I took it apart I had tried:
new points (no change)
new and no air filter
the original and 2 other known good carbs
rinsed and refilled the gas tank twice

The engine both smoked (oily smell) and had breather blowby, when I could get it to run.

The top of the block was close to full of carbon between the cylinder and valves, also on the valves (over 1/8" deep), but was almost clean on top of the piston.

The one thing I failed to try was clean oil, it was VERY black.

 

It sounds like it needs rings then. The absence of a ridge means little to nothing. My k301 didn't have a ridge but it was worn enough that it required a .030 over piston.

The glaze on the cylinder wall will be removed when it is bored and honed.


Might as well plan on a complete overhaul.