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Wheel Horse GT14 with everything..what is it? Do I need it?

39K views 44 replies 13 participants last post by  123GO  
#1 ·
I never saw one of these before. Like what I'm used to on steroids. Sort of a Case 448 and MTD 990 size critter with the cast grille and 4 lug rear wheels.
It has a normal blade and a ginormous one, a rusted deck and a nice looking tiller and snow blower. Looks like a hydraulic lift setup on the back.

14hp kohler looks decent. It's at an auction tomorrow. Any idea of the price range?
 

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#3 ·
those are fairly uncommon models. there is one at my 4h. its a hydrostat (with no disengage, so pushing it is a b****) it does have a hydro lift as well. its a super HD machine. fast too.

i would pay $1100 for all that stuff assuming it works well
 
#4 ·
When built Wheel Horse them, they listed it as a commercial tractor. Years built were from 69 to 73. dry weight of 900lbs. You have the cat 0 3pt for the tiller.
They are a fairly common tractor around these parts. tractors go for 400-600, tiller 100 -200, blade 150-200 and 3pt 200-300 retail.
Got to look out for the hydro because of the age and gas tank for leaks and warpage.
All in all a true beast. Definitly a good tractor, I have a few of them and the acc. pictured and a loader. At auction guess its up to you but maybe 750-1000 for everthing if in good condition.
 
#8 ·
DwAndy, wrong answer. Those attachments basically only fit the GT14, Tiller is special, blade I guess can be used on others but I wouldn't want to put it on anything but a GT14, I think the mower could be used on other tractors but it would basically have to be early model tractor say 68 thru maybe a 72. The GT14 is more special than you think. That blade wouldn't fit your 520 or your 417a or anything like that. They are a whole different ball game, definitely would be alot of work. See Ya, Bye Burly
 
#9 ·
Burly , The blade that I got with my 417A fits on the GT 14 with only minor tire rubbing when the blade is angled to the side. I wonder if a blade for a GT 14 is long enough for the 520 HC ? But anyway My point is that they usually don't auction the whole group of equipment at once , but rather one piece at a time.
 
#11 ·
Nice looking complete set---at least a 1970 model by the hood decals...

Steve's -(refracman's) prices are right in the ball park.....the three pt. hitch is very sought after by those that have these GT"s..........

Let us know--
glenn
 
#12 ·
When I see a potential for an auctioneer to break up attachments for a special tractor...
I go and point out the fact that these attachment go only
on this tractor. Lots of times...auctioneers do not know these kinds of
specifics. But when all is said and done? 80% still separate the attachments....lol

And to answer your question? Oh yeah! You "need" this tractor!
It will soon become a favorite! :goodl:
 
#13 ·
On closer evealuation of the pictures--all of the three pt. rear hitch
(side arms etc. ) are not on the tractor--maybe laying in that pile-somewhere??
 
#18 ·
Lots of stuff happened today, but I'll get right to the auction of the GT14.
They couldn't get it to start, so they just said it will run and that is has recently been overhauled. I think they mean hasn't been lined out and used since the overhaul, but that's getting ahead of myself.

So they started taking bids and I went $400 but was having a hard time figuring out if it was the tractor alone or the tractor with everything with it. They said the tractor alone. So I asked if the 3 point lower arms and top link were included that were still attached to the tiller? They figured out what I was asking but kept on taking bids without answering.
I won the tractor, running condition unknown for $535.00. Then they said the 3 point stuff would sell with the tiller, so I was at the mercy of whoever else wanted the tiller. I had to get it to get the 3 point arms, so I won it for $175 which really had me PO'd and I let it be known. Not that it was such a bad deal, but that I had to buy it or not get the 3 point arms.
I didn't think the small blade was anything special and didn't bid on it, I already have one for the C-100. Besides, it was pretty crusty and looked 20 years older than the rest of the stuff.
I got the REALLY wide blade for $35. Yes I was probably still visibly upset over the tiller. Snow blower was $75 which was also pretty reasonable so I was actually feeling pretty good about the price...$820..depending on what turned up with the tractor.
I went to start it and the battery turned out to be dead as a doornail. I always bring a battery or 2 and went the 1/4 mile to the truck and brought one back on the 2 wheeler. Well, it would crank and had gas (good gas tank) and I found out the painful way it had good spark. The choke cable moves the shaft fine but it doesn't seem to make much difference. I'll have to check the butterfly to see whats going on later.
Stuck a glove in the venturi and it started right up...ran decent smooth quiet and not a hint of smoke.
That didn't last long though. I'm convinced the carb is junk or at least crudded up. Would.t run faster than an idle without coughing and dying. You could coax it up to a faster speed ant it ran ok until you put a load on it and it would instantly cough and die. This went on for quite a while. It is a newer carb with a sealed main jet instead of adjustable. I got one off my just parted out 214 Deere that will get swapped first think. Ok, first thing will be that ridiculous tiny fuel filter that looks like the factory original.
The engine really does look just rebuilt...the block is bare and beginning to surface rust. I'll probably just take it out and remove the sheet metal and red it up after getting it lined out...then the parking brake I've read can be a real pain. Something is way wrong. You have to hold it down to engage the drive belt, push the motion lever forward, baby the throttle and steer it all with 2 hands.
I'll be going through that too. I think the PO was good at taking things apart but bad about putting them back together again. Surely he had someone else rebuild the engine.
The hydro lift wasn't working either, but I just wanted to get loaded up.
I had to 2 wheel everything to my car trailer 1/4 mile away and a coiple hours later I was pretty done in.
I did buy 2 more engines and some other stuff, 3 more trips there.
I'll fiddle with it in a day or 2. Between my Deere H3 I'm building, the C-160 and the GT14, at least 1, probably 2 will have to head to someone elses garage for as much profit as possible.
More photos tomorrow.
 
#20 ·
Auctions can sometimes be aggrivating:duh: .
Sounds like ya got a decent deal if it runs good. The lift thing sounds like either its low on fluid or just needs run awhile, and the belt engagement thing its either the spring is broke or belt is to long. It not wanting to run sounds like water in the fuel bowl. The parking brake on these is engauged when the belt engaugement arm is in the up postion.
You did right by getting the big blade as that is the correct one for it and sorta rare.
I have the manuals for it on pdf, send a email if ya wantem.
If haveing to sell one off I would sell off the 140 only because you'll have a bigger market and will sell faster.
 
#21 ·
Juggling too many projects right now. I have the Honda Civic in the shop almost ready to remove the head and replace the head gasket. Hopefully I can hook the 40 or so hoses back up in the correct place.
Then The Aerostar van got bumped up to priority with a leaky water pump and my wife needing to drive her parents to St. Louis next week and nothing else they will fit into. (Large inlaws)
Did fiddle with the GT14 enough yesterday to bust the unreplacable gas tank. Taking the fuel hose off the outlet nipple and split the nipple.
Removed it and swapped in a temp one. They would have to put that right on a corner as part of a seam or I'd just drill a hole and put in a grommet and fitting like Wheel Horse should have done. Now THAT was a stupid idea on their part. (It actually split on the seam that runs through the nipple.)
Swapped carbs with the deere 14hp carb first and IT had water in it. (the wheel horse float bowl was clean as a whistle. Had to swap choke shafts)
Now its flooding all over the place so I'll have to check the float out tomorrow.
The engine will run fine..If I manage to get the carb lined out. The hesitation is gone with the different carb, but it both floods and needs the choke on. Sheeesh.
 
#23 ·
Yup. The steal of the day got past me though. A pretty rough looking cub 124 that I was eyeing for parts...got sold while I was moving my stuff. (didn't want stuff to grow legs & walk off..it happens)
Sold for $75..and the guy was last seen heading down the road in 3rd gear sounding great no smoke no nothin! HEY! I didn't know it was runnable! he said he was going to enter it into some kind of garden tractor demolition derby. Of course If I had been bidding he probably would have outbid me anyway and I don't need another 124.
The gravely GEM sold for $150.

Prices were high and low, all over the map.

There was a pretty mangy surface rusty Ariens snowblower with a 5hp briggs engine and one of those 110 starters on it that I was eyeing for the engine.
Had dog chain links screwed to its hard rubber tires for more self propelled traction. Bid up to $45 and I didn't bid...turned out it had a reserve of $250!!!!!!
The Auctioneer was pretty well apologising for the goofy reserve, said they just noticed it.

If I were the auctioneer, I'd have told the owner to take it home with a reserve like that! No reason to waste everyones time. $40 is pretty high for something like that around here. $250 is just silly talk.
 
#25 ·
I have used a plastic welder. They have different color rods for different plastics and instructions on determining the type by shaving a sliver off and burning it in a flame to see the color.

Didn't work worth a hoot. So I took some plastic wheel flares off one of those Richard Petty Volares to a professional welder who did plastic welding. Most of the cracks around the mounting bolts promptly cracked again.
Anything but that.