I had a vibration issue with the steering wheel but it was simply the nut of the steering wheel that was not properly tighten

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Could be the nut, or the steering valve.
You can try this trick to see if it's the hydraulic steering valve.
When the steering wheel is buzzing, push your hyd attachment lift lever to full up, or down. If the buzzing goes away, it's in your steering valve.
The X310 had a update to their steering valve, and this is how the dealer is supposed to diagnose them.
Some of the 310's buzz pretty bad-my dealer had one in that you could not keep your hands on the wheel, and the buzz was enough to shake the dash and hood as well.
Mine had a mild buzz from day one-and will get it updated under warranty before I put it away for the winter.

 

tried this and it didnt make any difference....hmmm

 

I know its not the nut, i tightened it with a 2 foot breaker bar.
Ill check the valve tonight with your method DAVIDE and see what happens thanks.

 

If it works then you have to thank automojo not me as he is the one who gave you this hint.

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problem solved.
Had to replace the tachometer cable last night.Tore the little side panel off that attaches the dash to the battery area etc put the new cable in and started the tractor to test it and the viberation in the steering wheel is gone. It was just how tight the adjustable arm bolted to the dash was i guess. Very happy now to have zero rattle which is how it was when i bought it! I had tore this little panel off a month ago to paint it and must not have got it back on perfect.( and thats when the rattle started about that time) Fixed now.

 

...But at about 1/4 throttle where i like to drive around the yard to and from ....

Glad you got the wheel rattle sorted out. And the tach fixed to boot!:thThumbsU

One suggestion, is to do your to/from driving at a higher rpm. Diesels don't like to be babied, and hydrostatic transmissions are less efficient (must work harder) at lower input rpm.

I'm not saying you need to keep it at full throttle all the time, but I think it would be better for the engine and the transmisson if you used something more like 2/3-3/4 of throttle when you are just transporting around the yard, etc. Low/idle rpm speeds are better for start/warm-up and cool-down when the tractor is stationary.

 

That is some of the best info i have got off this site!:fing32: I have been wondering about this. Since its my first diesel i had no idea. I have been babying it like you say. Ive had no idea really how much i should or shouldnt be beating on it. I always try to keep my things nice as possible. But i do find at half throttle and up all my hydro functions and tractor movements are much more responsive and powerfull.
So your telling me doing everything at higher throttle doesnt harm anything and is actually better for the engine right? How should i start it up when cold? i always start with throttle low as possible. Should i be starting at half throttle? And how long should i wait for warm up? thanks a lot this helps me a ton!

 

I'm happy you fixed it.

 

Start the diesel at half throttle.

 

wow awesome post! thanks for taking the time to answer all my questions!

 

My pleasure.

By the way, that is one heck of a nice 655 you have! :thThumbsU If I had more property, I'd seriously consider one.