In the interest of simplicity, I would look for a new short block on eBay. Looks like it has a newer carb., so you don't have to worry about that. While you're at it, ditch the points (you may have to anyway, as a newer SB won't have provisions for them) and install a Magnetron coil. You'll be set for many years to come, and won't have to retrofit a new engine.

 

Hello,

Thank you for replying!

I have look on ebay,but there quite few brands from tillers,show,cutter,etc.. and is hard to see exactly what i need as it must have the same shaft front/back and also the 4 holes to attach back to the tiller.

I have found one local here, well about 1 hour away:
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/for/4854092072.html
but not sure if it the same 100%. (for $100 complete)

Thats why i asked regarding harbor freight engines, maybe to get new with extended warranty and from the reviews i see that they fit it, but the power from 6.5hp to 8hp...

I am only going to use this 2,3 times a year.
Also i have attached a picture of the carb. and the coil, all parts are rusty and that's why i was running for complete engine.


Thanks,

 

I replaced the worn out 8HP B&S on my horse w/ a HF 6 1/2 HP. You just need 4 metric bolts for engine attachment and a metric bolt for pulley attachment. Also a 3/4" flat washer behind the pulley for alignment w/ the trans pulley. It has plenty of power even when sunk in to the hilt.
Mike

 

Hello,

Been a while, and finally i got started to finish this troy.

So i got the 6.5hp from Harbor Freight $99.

And now i am trying to find out regarding those bolts:
>4 metric bolts for engine attachment
>a metric bolt for pulley attachment.
How long they suppose to be and the size.
(I may have to match something up,i guess)

Also looking to buy 2 new tires (4.80-8 tubeless).

I was looking at this:

Plus i have to see what "Tiller Tine Set" will work for my tiller as i don't have them at all.

Was thinking to get this:
Amazon.com : Maxpower 8620 Tiller Tine Set for Troy Bilt, Replaces Troy Bilt 1901118 and 10802 : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Other 2 things i need is the cable that runs from the motor all way up to the handle.

And the other , is this:

I lost that one there and not sure whats called and the part number.

Thank you for any advice.

 

Thank you for your input!

Where you get the screws? at HF or other place?

Also i need to find out what type of cutters i need ,as they are missing and from what the guy told me when he give it to me,said that the cutters come with the bolts to keep them in place. Not sure the part number for those cutters , hmm.

Thanks for the advice.

 

Call Bill Rodgers at Valley Power Products. PH 800 609 5110. He has worked with Troy-Bilt for 40 years. He can get parts and may know of an original engine for you. He is the most knowledgable person I know when it comes to these tillers.

 

I bought a old horse and ended up doing a full rebuild and bore on my Briggs 8 hp engine just like yours. Would I do it again? I think so, but my engine was a lot less toasty than yours.

I will say that I'm on the yahoo Horse forum and there are tons of people that are really happy with their harbor freight re power. The only two things I've heard is you need to disconnect the oil level sensor because the engine isn't running level, and that some people put additional weight up front because the harbor freight engine isn't as heavy as the briggs.

 

Hello,
Yes my engine it has to much rust, i mean all inside the shaft , broken stuff. I guess who had it they use it to extreme.

So i have to make a decision , find a complete working original engine or just trow a Harbor Freight engine in it. But for now i may go with Hf as i can get a complete engine and new, and i can buy extended warranty just in case, and keep the old engine and maybe will find some parts later for it.

Thank you,

 

Most Ace and Tru value stores will have the bolts. Ford8 said to run the tire on the oil fill side up on a 2x4 so you can overfill it. I eventually had to disconnect the low oil sensor because it would still kill it when at max depth. IIRC I had to add 17 lbs to the counterweight.
Sorry for the hindsight, mine's always 20/20,
Mike

 

Thank you for the value info giving! if start this projects soon and will see how it goes.
Regards.

 

That engine may be an option, even though the "Industrial Plus" wasn't their best effort. Even if you can't use the whole engine, you should have a short block, and you can sell the parts you don't need. BTW, your old coil has already been converted to Magnetron ignition.

 

Thank you for advice.
Appreciated.
P.

 

My old Horse (1971, IIRC) came from the factory with a 6 h.p. Tecumseh. The 7 h.p. Kohler was also available. As far as I know the only difference was the engine. When I went to replace it the dealer offered to get an 8 h.p. Briggs for me. I stuck with the 6 h.p. and never regretted it. Plenty of power for what it does. Also had the blade for pushing snow. Worked pretty good up to about 4", then it pushed back too hard and became a lot of work. Plenty of power, though.

If by cutters you mean the tines that engage the soil, spend a little more and get the hard-faced ones. They last a *lot* longer.

 

"I lost that one there and not sure whats called and the part number".

Patrocle;
If I understand correctly what you are pointing at in your picture, that is where the pulley key goes, and it is still in the crankshaft that you showed in your first pictures above.

 

Hello RedHorseRider,

Yes, that key that holds the pulley and crankshaft together! Need to buy on from somewhere but not sure what is the part number or where to get one,as i lost the original. I clean up and trow all the bad parts and old engine away! My bad...

Thanks,

 

Take the engine w/ you to the hardware store to get the right bolts and they will probably have the keystock for the crank key. As for bolt length, just find the thickness of the mount housing and add 3/4" to that and don't forget lock washers. IIRC it is either 1/4" or 5/16" square key.
Mike

 

@Mike, Thank you for your advice.

Hopefully the hardware store have that keystock for the crank. I have only few hardware stores around me, like Ace Hardware, Home Depot, Lowes and maybe others, will have to search for it.

Still looking for a manual for this where i can pin point all parts by part number for easy to find, as i still looking for the
cable that runs from the motor all way up to the handle and the Tiller Tine Set.

Thank you for your advice.

 

I didn't worry about the throttle cable, just set the engine speed where desired and go.
Mike

 

Okay! Thank you.

 

Yes add more oil when filling it . Like mike said run one tire up on a chunk of 2x4 and fill till the oil is at the top of the filler / dip stick hole. Since you can fill oil either side on the Predator it won't mater which wheel is on the 2x4.

Get a rust penetrating oil like PB blaster, Liquid Wrench and others or make up your own with ATF and acetone, diesel fuel and acetone also will work.

As Mike also said you may still have to disconnect the oil level sensor.
Your going to fall in love with that engine use good gas and if you can not get ethanol free gas add Stabil or similar produce.
I have 3 and all are just two pulls max to start every time.

 

"...use good gas and if you can not get ethanol free gas add Stabil or similar produce.

In my area i think we have :

Unleaded Octane 89
Premium Octane 91

Not sure about "ethanol free gas" never used it...don't know anything about it.

So if add stabil, is that let say a can/qt of stabil to 1 gal of gas?

Thanks,

 

@Al,

Thank you for Reply!

So i guess a full Quart may go in of that 10-w30.

Now regarding that rust, i put some hydraulic oil last night and got it up and down many,many,many times! and now works way better up and down, will see when i will put the engine backup will see how it will go.

So to understand why it goes up/down ... is it to loosen the belts while driving and the
engine is about to die while digging to deep into dirt or? - The purpose of it...

Thank you!

 

Me for what it takes I unscrew the pin stops, pound out the pins and clean them up as well as the holes in the castings and then anti seize the pins or grease them heavy during installation. Then it moves like a dream
One the new honda clones I have found they are quite dirty with casting crap etc in fact the worst I have ever seen and would suggest a oil change out after 1-2 hours running
On the pulley position I had to shim both I have done so far for belt alignments but more important on one is it would have rubbed into the engine side case if I didnot
That is more of a concern pending when the honda clone was produced
On the stop setting take a look for the operators manual a member has posted and has a sticky on it. That outlines the procedure
Cheers

 

Regarding the "pulley position" , By my measure with engine installed and pulley installed
i am off by 3/8 , so a 3/4 washer (1/4 wide) should be fine. Waiting on the Ace Hardware to open so i can go and see what washers they have.

 

As long as the OD of the washer is not rubbing on the case side I would say yes
One engine I could have done that the other nope I had to make them out of pipe since the shaft steps were cut differently
You will know as soon as you put the washer in place
Cheers

 

Off the top of my head the break in on the first oil change is 3 hours of work run time. I do believe a full quart is to much, to much is as bad as not enough I feel.

 

That one IMO is to each their own. After seeing what came out of them meaning these honda clones after a hour or so that was long enough for me. I also run Mobil I syn in all my gear after. I have never seen oil that dirty coming out of new honda motors
To me it is like my truck GM says 10,000 kms on the syn oil. I change it at 5000kms and can actully see a drop in the oil pressure gauge when it gets close to the 5000km
But in the end it is really just what ever each is comfortable with IMO we are not talking about a big expense here in these small engines
Cheers

 

This is the oil i got to put in my engine:

http://www.autozone.com/internal-engine/engine-oil/valvoline-engine-oil/561407_444336_0_99046/?checkfit=true

They don't say in the manual anything regarding synthetic.

 

Synthetic is just my preference. I have been using it since the 80's in everything I own of some form even two stroke engines
Those that don't think it matters IMO don't tear a lot of motors apart and look inside .
Not something one has to do as long as they do regular oil changes but for me it is worth the extra expense

Cheers

 

Read the instructions on the Stabil label. Far from a quart per gallon.
I think a quart will treat 250 gallons if I remember correctly.

 

I see that "8 oz treats 20 gallons"...

http://www.autozone.com/fuel-and-engine-cleaners-additives/fogging-oil-and-fuel-stabilizer/sta-bil-sta-bil-fuel-stabilizer/136365_0_0/?checkfit=true

Monday, will get some fuel and some stabil. I am really closed to start up the tiller.

I see in the manual it say to use 87+ fuel, can you put 89, 91?... i don't think there is 87 anymore...at the gas stations...

 

So i manage to finish everything, and i have started up the till all good, but after some minutes i think the belts witch i put new 2 of them , they not the right size. I think from heat they extended and they look loosen now.

Not sure what is the right belt for my tiller.

I have order this here:
Oregon 75-685 Replacement Belt for Troy Bilt 1128-1, 1/2-inch x 21-5/8-inch

I am also seeing some belt dust coming out, maybe while i start the engine and then i push the leveler down so to connect the belts with the top and button pulleys .

Thanks for any advice!

 

What is the serial number of that machine. hard to tell from the pics but it looks like a single belt model. Is it after 314150??
If so it needs a 9245 1/2 x 22 1/4" and one

 

Where you so those numbers: 314150...?
Thanks!

 

It say:
Tiller Serial Number: 589205 on the right side.

 

She takes one 9245 belt then and make sure you get the exact size rough edge one like the original troy
They work the best and are on e-bay not expensive
Cheets

 

One belt only and the one that works well for me is listed as

EXACT SIZE PIX BELT= Troy Bilt troybilt Horse Tillers # 9245 1/2" X 22.25"