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Testing a E130 / Wanting a X350 - Help!

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7.2K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  mowergene  
#1 ·
Guys, I need your recommendations. I brought home my first riding lawn mower on Friday, the John Deere E130 with a rear bagger. I was at Lowes and I had been thinking about buying a riding lawn mower for several months but had not done a ton of research. The reason I went through with the purchase is because I have a 30 day test period with the E130 and I can return it with no questions asked for a full refund. I did get a great deal, total for the E130 and Bagger $2,025 plus tax. Now that I have the E130 I have caught the tractor bug and can not stop reading reviews and info on all types of riding lawnmowers. I have about 3/4 of an acre to maintain in a neighborhood setting. My front yard is flat but my back yard does have a slope, nothing drastic but probably 6' of slope to every 150'. I live in Alabama and have Bermuda Grass in my front yard and Zoysia Grass in my backyard. I love to work in my yard and I am very particular about the way my yard looks. That is one of the biggest reasons I have never used a riding lawnmower before, I didn't think I could get as nice of cut with a riding lawnmower as a push mower. I have a Honda HRX217HYA Push Mower that I have used the last 4 seasons. I bag and mulch with the Honda and it takes me 2-3 hours to cut the yard to my liking. Saturday I used the E130 to do the first cut of the season and cut the grass low (2") and bagged all of the dead clippings. The E130 did a good job, I did notice a few areas that scalped but this is not very noticeable now because the grass is still manly dormant. I guess my first questions is can I get as good of cut with a riding mower as I can with my push mower? If I can then I am tempted to return the E130 and purchase a X350. I got a quote Saturday from my local John Deere and I can get the unit for $2999.00, the rear bagger is an additional $628.00 installed. I may not get the bagger with the X350, but mulch this summer and then get a sweeper in the fall for leaves. I don't want to waste my money if the E130 is sufficient for my property but I have always been one to spend more upfront and buy the best. I don't spend money often but when I do I don't mind paying for the best. Is there another mower / brand that would sever me better. I looked into Simplicity Mowers but there is no dealer anywhere close to me. I called the only one I could find in the state and they said they didn't stock Simplicity but could order them they then tried to sell me a Snapper and said it was the same thing so I don't feel like I would get good support even if I had them order me a unit. I have read so much info over the last 3 days that my head is spinning and I just want to make the best decision. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
 
#2 ·
I think the E130 will do the job, but I'm sure you've figured out that the 100-series is an entry-level tractor which means some compromises were made to reduce the price. The X300 series gets you one step up with the Kawasaki engine (X350 and higher) and an improved line of mower decks. X300's also have a little more substance to the frame, along with bearings in places where the 100-series has bushings; in other words, it's build for more longevity. You may notice that the X300's are easier to steer, even on the models without power steering.

The transmission is key to how much work the tractor can actually do - pulling, hauling, or moving up/down inclines. The X350 has a K46 trans, which isn't a whole lot different than the TL200 in the E130; it's a very small step up, as the K46 is still best suited for flat (or nearly flat) areas.

You mention that you're concerned about scalping. In that case, I'd strongly suggest looking at the 48" decks as they have more anti-scalp wheels on them. In the case of the X300-series, the 48" decks are a lot easier to move with wheels on all four corners that also pivot 90 degrees.

I've always been very satisfied with the cut on both my LA140 (a 2007 version of today's E170) and my X394. I'd never push mow 3/4-acre for a supposedly better cut, though, so my standards may not be as high as yours. One thing I will say is that tractors certainly won't leave the same wheel ruts all over the grass as the push mowers do. You want to be mindful of the total weight of the tractor, though; my X394 is a lot heavier than the LA140, and it does leave more noticeable tracks behind than the LA140.

I've got a typical flat suburban lawn about 1/3 of an acre in size. The LA140 served me very will for 10 years with no problems, and it's still in service in the family. Many will bash the 100-series just because it's a less-expensive, "box store" tractor. If you use it for what it's designed for (that flat lawn for up to 1-2 acres), they work very well at an affordable price. Too many people buy it and then overwork it because they don't understand that there are various levels of tractors and capabilities, and that's how the 100's get a bad reputation. I upgraded to an X394 because I wanted power steering and 4-wheel steering, not because there was anything wrong with the LA140. That said, you can never buy enough tractor! If you want to spend more to get more tractor, there's nothing wrong with that either. For example, power steering sounds like something totally unnecessary, but once you try it you must have it! Another pleasant surprise in the X394 was the increase in forward speed over the LA140. When I get going straight, the X394 will move faster and still cut well.
 
#3 ·
Bermuda grass is cut much lower than other types of grasses (3/4th inch to 1 1/2 inches). So when you lower the deck to such low cutting heights, some scalping should be expected. This was probably not noticeable when using the Honda push mower because the push mower cutting swath is only 21 inches wide whereas riding lawn mover cuts a 38", 42" or 48" swath in one pass. You will have to do some "leveling" done to your Bermuda grass area to obtain that perfect look. Most people who tend their Bermuda lawn use special reel mowers to achieve that professional manicured look. So do some reading on Bermuda cut heights vs other grasses before the window closes for returning the E130 or planning for an X350. Also do some research on reel mowers as well.
 
#5 ·
There are too many things to mention that I look for in a mowing machine. What's important to one person is not necessarily to another. If I was only going to have one (and I'm a firm believer in back-ups in case of down time), I'd get a garden tractor. Everything should be heavier duty on one. I look for bolt on rear tires, a quality deck with lube-able spindles, and a filter on the hydro-stat. I'm not enamored by plastic hoods or seats that crack. I lean toward an older model that's in great condition. As I've gotten older (and that's inevitable), I've gotten pleasure from hydraulic deck lift, power steering and differential lock. Don't be in a hurry and get the one you really want. That way you'll be content.
 
#6 ·
I agree with nearly everything said to you already. The wider the deck the better your chances to scalp and that can be filled and worked on over time so a larger deck can do nearly the same job. An X350 has the same frame as the X5 series tractors and that is stronger. Kawasaki engines are great and will last longer. I forget what the E series has for adjustments on the anti-scalp wheels, but if you hit a high spot near the center of the deck..the wheels aren't helping. They are mainly for bigger changes in the landscape.

For the extra $1K I would go X350, and now that you have an idea of what you might want...and you don't mind spending the time to use the Honda. I'd take an extra week or so to contemplate what I really want. Time savings from a rider is fantastic. I'm more of a get it done and have it look better than the neighbors kinda guy. I spend the time I save mowing to do edging of the sidewalk and trimming etc.
 
#7 ·
I was in a similar position as you... All Bermuda yard, very picky, etc. I started with a 350 with the 42" cut. It was great. But I went one step (maybe a large step) farther and bought a 570 because of how much I use it. I can't tell you how much better the cut is. It is amazing. I think it mostly stems from the 48" cut vs the 42 I had on the 350 because of the scalp wheels which have been mentioned. If you can swing it, the 350 is better than the Lowe's models. With what I do, the 570 was a much better choice. My mower does way more than mow. Have you looked at the higher end 3 series models with the k58? X380 I believe. Also, from experience, in June and July if you don't mow that Bermuda twice a week, that 18.5 hp engine will bog down a bit. I keep mine about 2.25 and when I came back from vacation it was brutal.
 
#8 ·
Money wise, it costs so much initially for a Home Depot or Lowes rider .... around 2K$. A little more gets you what you want. My view would say that the best these two retailers have will not satisfy a discriminating buyer.
I've had two new cars in my life (and I'm now 71. I've looked at my daughter's cars (she buys used also) and compared them to what I drive (I spend 2 - 5K$ more than she does. My cars are a LOT nicer. She has had newer cars than I occasionally, but mine are still nicer. I get rid of mine before they're unreliable but she waits 'til they die. People get rid of items for a lot of different reasons. If looking at used equipment, such as mowers, try not to buy someone's problematic tractor. Buy one that's not been abused but the owner has upgraded because his needs have changed, he inherited something better, or he's selling his acreage and moving into an apartment. Look at the age and look at the hours. Look for something that is obviously wrong that you can fix. Buy as heavy-duty as you can afford.......even good stuff wears and breaks. Talk to a lot of people and do a lot of reading. Your computer will help you find what you need and want.