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:thanku:Mike.



You can not run 2 alternator on the same battery, the original charging system power-up the ignition coils only (spark-plug).

The newly add alternator has a built-in regulator.



:thanku:Wizzo.
The original coil should have anything to do with the ignition coils. those will fire as long as the secodnary windings are open and the magnet on the flywheel moves past the coils with adequate speed.
 
great work as always stladrill. keep it up! :fing32:
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Is it self exciting 1 wire or do you still need the plug on the alt?
It's connect with the feed at the ignition, it's a 3 wire alternator, main battery, warning light and feed.

If you talk about the wiring of the tractor, the only mod I done is to remove the 20 amps fusible link by a 30 amps circuit and a feed from the ignition switch, the engine (ignition coil only) is still powered by the 15 amps charging coil of the engine. To but it back original I just have to reinstall the original fusible link to the charging coil.
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
The original coil should have anything to do with the ignition coils. those will fire as long as the secodnary windings are open and the magnet on the flywheel moves past the coils with adequate speed.
Well, the permanent magnet are part of the original charging system, sorry to not have been more precise in my explanation.
 
LOL,
I think I'm done with mod for a while.:)
Unless something I need come up. :D
The alternator bracket it self explanatory.

I'm sure many would like to know how the engine pulley was constructed.
Looks like a socket (I see a hex shape) in the middle.

Did you make any effort to balance it or just weld it up and go?

Think you'll need a heat shield to protect the alternator?
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
The alternator bracket it self explanatory.

I'm sure many would like to know how the engine pulley was constructed.
Looks like a socket (I see a hex shape) in the middle.

Did you make any effort to balance it or just weld it up and go?

Think you'll need a heat shield to protect the alternator?
The engine pulley is weld on a 1/2 drive 32mm axle socket, of course I balanced the pulley, I choose to took a socket because it's engineered strait and fit enough tight on the pulley so I can measured and adjust it, I took my magnet mount dial indicator to take measurement, static and dynamic, the pulley have 0.004 offset static and dynamic.


I'm not sure to understand the meaning of the alternator bracket "The alternator bracket it self explanatory"

The bracket it self act as a heat shield and the turbulence cause by the engine fan push the heat away.
 
Because it's the way it should be connected. :)

This way the alternator is not draining the battery at off position, it' only about 500 milliamp but with a small battery capacity is a lot and will drain it in few days.
I kinda figured, but there are also permanent magnet alternators out there as well. I'm used to doin upgrades on cars still, lol.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
I kinda figured, but there are also permanent magnet alternators out there as well. I'm used to doin upgrades on cars still, lol.
I check for a permanent magnet alternator, but it was too expensive, $ 200.00 with an external regulator is the cheapest I could find.
 
What model was the alternator ? And where did you find it Also whats the amperage ?
 
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