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some case 222 questions

5.5K views 23 replies 5 participants last post by  bubbawithabolens  
#1 ·
how much oil does a case 222 hydrodrive hold (tractor not motor) also why the onan on a 446 and a kohler on a 222, im wondering about putting a onan on the case 222, i know the crank is longer,iknow the mounts are different,i know i should go original but i dont want to and dont have the money to, i was going to put a kohlr 12.5 command but i used it for a sears suburban and pulled the onan off because it used to much gas to mow, the case will be used strictly for pushing snow, pulling a cart and so forth but no mowing as a matter of fact ive strppied all the mowin parts off of it minus the cylinder and lift bar. ive got the lovejoy coupler (tractor supply g&g coupler $8.99 1 1/8 in) to connect the motor and pump. also can i hard mount the motor to the frame or do i have to use rubber mounts, also what is the gpm on the case 222 pump, would it be possible to add another hydraulic output, i want to put a snow plow on it and i will use the deck up and down for the plow but im also wanting to put a quick attach bucket to the plow and use a secodary cylinder to open the bucket like a clamshell. heres a picture of th case, and hopefully someone can guess the year as i can not find any number on it

Image


this was before i took the mowin deck stuff off of it
 
#2 ·
While I've never done it and I know they don't recommend it, there should be no reason you couldn't drop an Onan in that tractor. Since you don't want to run belt driven attachments you won't need the pto but you'd have to rig up a fan of some kind maybe 12v to run air through the cooler. The only thing I see with not having the crankshaft center line the same as original (which is why they suggest not doing the conversion) is the lines running to the pump will be off so you might have to adjust them and the pto/fan. The Onans set right on the frame and the rubber spacer is on the bottom side of the frame. Go take a look at any of the newer parts manuals and you'll get an idea of what your up against.
That pump is big enough to do about anything you want to with it, You'll need the lift cylinder for the blade and if you decide to put a sleeve hitch on it but you can tee into it and ad a selector valve to have an accessory port. A better way would be to tap into the system like for a pto and ad another travel valve and then you have two accessory circuits with their own valves. Lots of guys have done it and you should be able to find threads about it.
Make sure and take lots of pictures so you can show them that it can be done or where you ran into issues.
Good luck with it.
 
#3 ·
thanks cp7 your one of the first people to say something positive, i posted about oh 2 or so months ago about doing a kohler 12.5 command on it and everyone had a negative outlook on it. the fan is no problem i have a hydro fan off a cub 2130 that i can mount to the front of the onan i just have to make sure it pulls air other wiise the air would be fighting itself with the onan flywheel pulling air and the fan pushing air. the motor mounts on the case were they for vibration dampining or to allow a little flex when the pump is under twisting force, i only have one side of the motor mount hence the reason im asking, if i can solid mount the motor to the tractor itll be easier to fab two identical mounts, i dont even know if the pump or drive motor are any good on this thing so hopefully ill get lucky, my guess is the previous owner took the motor off for either 1 of two reasons 1 it was bad or two it they needed it for another project that had hydraulics. im afraid to look at the parts manual as it will most likely detur me from doing it, if i look at some paper and it looks hard to do ill chicken out but if i jump in and do it and run into problems ill figure them out and keep on tractorin.
 
#4 ·
I remember bubba and if you remember I told you about the same thing then. Since all that connects the engine to the rest of the system is a couple hoses you have allot of leeway in the design. You were going to try and test your pump with a drill. How did you make out with that?
I see that the pump mount is there on your tractor and it's for a Kohler and I'll bet it won't mount up to your Onan. Go on eBay and look at a mount for an Onan and you'll see the difference. That is probably where you should start by getting the pump mounted to the engine. Then you can set the engine on the frame. Like I tried to say before the Onan engine bolts directly to the frame not with those mounts like the Kohler did.
Once you get that far and are ready to put oil in it, the Case takes motor oil in the hydraulic system. Don't make the mistake and put hydraulic oil in it.
 
#5 ·
well i never hooked a drill up to the pump, like was said before it may scar it up so i decided not to. when i asked about the motor the way it mounted i thought you was saying it mounted to the motor mount the to the frame like the kohler, just a mis understanding on my end. im going to try and mount the pump to the onan tommorow first i need to cut the old sears pully off since it wont come off the correct way. i knew it took motor oil 15w40 and i think i found that it takes about 9 quarts.
 
#10 ·
well i got some progess done on it today. ive found out i either need to cut the crankshaft shorter or i need to fabricate a new pump mount, the kohler pump housing will work if i take and cut the shaft down on the onan and use the bolts on the onans case that holds the crank shaft bearing in place (its a round plate and i can not think of the correct name for it), im leaning more towards a new pump mount that way if worst case scenario (case poops out) i can still use the onan on something else. the oil tank will sit a little higher than it was but i will still be able to mount the battery in it original location, the hood will fit fine only thing i will have to do is cut another half moon on the other side that way i can run the exhaist out and up, im thinking dual stacks, should sound good. the cooler will fit but ill have to do some trimming on the mount to make it work, ill have to cut the top L shaped peice back some and the left side of the mount forward toward the cooler basically making it look like the right side. ive got the fan figured out itll run off the front of the onan. the fan came off of a cub 2130 and will be mounted using a few of the old drive shaft peices that hooked to the front of a kohler 12.5 command on the cub. ill take some sheet metal i have and build a shroud similar to on a truck or car for it to pull the air through better,knowing how much air the onan pulls in by itsself plus adding the fan it should pull air through and keep the oil really cool, im thinking it will do better actually. other than connecting the pump to the onan it doesnt appear that it will be that bad. i did figure out something kinda nifty though and that is that i could leave the onan shaft at full length and put a pulley on the backside of the lovejoy and be able to run something off of a belt say a altenator or ? ill try and get some pics as soon as i can, ill either keep posting them here or start a new thread and lable it onan swap on a 222 or something similiar,
 
#12 ·
See now your wanting to run belt driven attachments. That is why everyone tries to advise against doing what you're wanting to do. The Case engineers designed a great setup and the crankshaft centerline is pretty important for everything else to line up and work with that design.
You were just wanting to make the thing move at first and just to do that you need to adapt the pump mount and hoses and reengineer the cooling system and exhaust and rewire the whole thing. Now you'll have to rig up some kind of mule drive to run these belt driven attachments and they will run all the time since there is no clutch.
Not that any of it can't be done and I don't mind a ratrod but it sure sounds like your trying to take the proverbial wheel and beat it into a cube and then make it roll again.
That's why they say for all the headache you'd be better to sell the engine you want to swap in and get the correct Kohler and make use of all the R&D money that Case threw at these things.
Keep us posted.
 
#13 ·
i have nothing but 10 bucks invested in this so what ever happens happens, what i posted was not ment to sound like i was trying to reinvent the wheel, i was simply stating what i see needs to be done, as far as the pully behind the lovejoy coupler that was just and ideal, if it were to run anything most likely it would be an altenator, yeah case did a great engineering job, and made a **** of a tractor, i guess im just to **** creative to keep it simple, i like the hotrod ideal, i think ill do that, dual stacks, some big ol 50s on the rear, some black and red paint, big ol rat fink logo painted on the hood, a mini keg on the front, i know im forgeting something.
 
#14 ·
I think if you can easily manage it, a pulley on the crankshaft behind the lovejoy coupler will not get in the way of anything. The alternator idea is a good one, and the alternator can be mounted virtually anywhere, so having a "mule drive" of sorts is not necessary.

If this is going to be a plowing tractor, an alternator may be handy if you have a lot of accessories such as halogen lights or winches.

Doug
 
#15 ·
dmorrill that was exactly what i was thinking, i have a few halogens laying around that would work excellent on it but they pull to many amps for the stock charging system to handle, this project may not look factory or be what the engineers intended it to be but it wil function correctly and like it should, i do have a winch that may go on it depending if i can find a spot to mount it. well i just got back from seeing family and now im off to try and make some more progress, i will try and post some pictures later this evening.
 
#18 ·
if all goes well i should be cruisin it around the block monday or tuesday, well since i dont live on a block i live on a dead end road in BFE ill be cruisin the road anyways, i also got to bolt the intake back down on the onan and come up with a exhaust but i have a bunch of pipe fitting so the exhaust shouldnt be a problem. the bad part about the pully on the back side is that i will have to pull the pump to put a belt on it. only thing that has me worried is not knowing if the drive motor on the rear is any good or knowing if the pump is any good but i have a good feeling that the pump is atleast good cause if i put my palm on the suction side of the pump and turn it by hand i can feel it pulling suction pretty good for turning it by hand, i will continue to take pics so every one can see its possibly, like i said may not look factory or what not but it will function correctly and thats all that matters. all purist will not like what i did but at least its not going to the scrap pile.
 
#19 ·
Why can't you connect the pump via lovejoy instead of a pulley? I don't think it was designed for the side load of a belt, but I could be wrong. If you have to move the pump and make new lines for it, it still should work fine.

Doug
 
#22 ·
Did you check the coupling alignment ? A lovejoy coupling can take a certain degree of mis-alignment by design but not much or they will wear out quickly, not to mention the pump bearing & seal. A dial indicator is the preferred method but in your application a straight edge across the coupling halves will surfice. I would say no more than .010 .....

:trink40:
 
#24 ·
i took a few measurments between the pump housing and back of motor and from what i can tell its the same all the way around so in theory it should be aligned . i took and put spacers between the pump housing and back of motor to keep everything as straight as possibly,

cp7 now your starting to see it, ive got to find a altenator small enogh in size to work, may a honda or something similiar, i need to go over to a buddy of mines and rummige through his treasure box (aka the garage) and see what he has

i got to drill a few holes tommarow to mount the engine and hook the hoses up, i took and connected the high pressure line and all the others and marked the spot for the holes today. after i get the holes drilled and the enigne mountd then its wiring and exhaust. wiring is the really easy part because when i pulled the motor of the sears i pulled the harness with it, the exhaust is alway the fun part. i also have to add a shround around the fan. its coming together nicely.

if i ever wanted to mow with this thing again i can all i have to do is hook the mower deck up to the rear hitch, i took and turned the original mower deck into a pull behind by adding a motor to it and a few front caster wheels. i would post pictures of it but my grandpa has it right now. i dont know if ill ever get it back either, he really liked it after the first time he used it. hes wanting me to build him one, but as far as im concerned the one i built for me is his