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Simplicity/Allis revitalizer

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14K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  joelw23  
#1 ·
I thought i'd get some info on these units in one place. Post your pictures and videos of your revitalizer here. Feel free to post tips on using these units. I'll start off the thread with an new old stock unit I picked up this weekend.

38" 990688

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#5 ·
I have the revitalizer on my 5hp Serf. The only thing it doesn't like very much is the partially erupted tree roots.

I'll put up some pics soon.

I used mine for thatching last fall. This spring I plan on dropping some seed after setting the attachment a little deeper.

I paid a mere $40.00 for mine.:drunkie:
 
#8 ·
Yeah guys some outfit like "Rogue Fabrication" or another should build some small versions of that thing;

A couple for belt driven pulleys like on late model prestige, conquest, Deere etc.
Maybe one for these classic tractors.

Then a cat 1 3Pt version for Legacy XL, Deere X700 series; Kubota BX and some others that might have that ability, would fit some older ones too.

The commercial Verticutters are way too expensive, They also have a commercial Verticutter/seeder also way too expensive.

If somebody could fabricate them at a realistic price it could be a niche, better than a stock aerator really, it needs more blades than the old revitalizer, a depth adjustment which that probably has and a removable seed box.

Make 'em small 36 inches and lots of lawns could use 'em!:trink40:
 
#10 ·
What about taking the tines off a rotiller and making replacement revitalizer tines? then you could have two uses of one attachment.

I think you could make revitalizer tines out of lawn edging blaeds with a little modification.

I would probably have to change out the pulley on the tiller for a larger one to slow it down, but it would still be cheaper than building a whole attachment.

Doug
 
#13 ·
Doug;

I did a similar thing with a 36" belt driven tiller on a Conquest, but don't have it anymore. The Tiller tines on that tiller are held to the shaft by a clevis pin, pull out the cotter pin and the assembly comes right off. Once on the bench the curved tiller tines unbolt. The 36" has two sets of curved tines on each side.

I took flat stock steel, 1/8 thick by 1 & 1/4 wide and I cut them to length, then drilled 2 holes in each, and sharpened the side on the grinding wheel. Some new bolts and washers as well.

The next thing was depth, I removed the Tiller flap, it is just a rod. Got a longer rod of same diameter and put a wheel on each side of the tiller which raised it up just a little but was easy to remove. I measured carefully to get about 1 & 1/4 to 1 & 1/2 depth for aeration/verticutting

Well it worked great, no modifications to the shaft or drive were needed. It cut vertical swath's through the lawn. I built a box of cutters per side with spacers so I got four blades per side for a total of 8 cuts. So yes it can be done.

I sold the conquest and the tiller with it but put it all back as original first, it was all just bolt on slip off.

It was good but one designed from scratch could have more blades and a depth of cut adjustment not to mention a seed box. But as I said the commercial cost of those is large. Simplicity could make those easy, or someone could fab a kit to slip on the verticutter blades instead of tiller blades, and some way for an easy depth of cut adjustment.

I guess like everything the question is; is there a market for it? I personally think the verticutter is better, it aerates, it dethacthes, (mine did that well also,) and it prepares the lawn for seed better than an plug aerator. The seed seems to go better into those slits than the core plug holes.

It dethacthes better than you might think, that's why in that photo with the bird's eye view of the revitalizer you can see it is dethatching as well. From what I have read about the verticutter they even help grass root growth go more straight down than sideways, and that make the grass stronger. Apparently real effective on some grass like and not others. I used it on my Fescue and it seems to be doing great, but I am no expert on yards. Just read up on the verticutters before you try it.:tsk:

From what I read most thatch is actually below the surface, and those wire tines that we all push or pull around don't get any but the "top mat", the thatch lies below, and the verticutter gets that.

I like 'em:trink40::trink40:
 
#17 ·
:thThumbsUDoug; I used flat stock steel I bought at tractor supply. I then used long bolts about 3 1/2 or 4 inches and used metal tubing also from TSC over the bolt. that gave me another place for 4 more vertical cutting blades. I did that on all four bolts on each. It made a offset box and fit great in the Tiller. Speed on the belt mule drive was great, cut beautiful! but you have to improvise a way to raise it, i used the wheels. Lots of measuring all around needed.

I had found the link below from an old discussion board on "tractor by Net" and Mother earth news.
Here is the link to mother earth.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Sustainable-Farming/1980-09-01/Pasture-Renovation.aspx

Now my blades look just like his, but I built the box for added rows and when it cut in soil on the lawn it did not look like his pasture, where the dirt looks real loose. It was much better, a slice in the soil, as wide as the blade and 1 & 1/4 inches deep. really nice. You could see why it would aerate, dethach and work great with seed. Becomes invisible after a couple of rains, and did not distort the yard at all.

Good Luck !:thThumbsU