Only some of the Roto-spaders convert directly where the hitch arms can bolt where the handles go. others have to have hitch arms welded to the back.. Roto spader just means roto tiller in sears terms, and there were a lot of models

 

I have asked for a model number on the tiller and the engine, which has "issues". Hopefully I will have more details later today on this tiller. What are some things I should be asking to determine the viability to convert this to a 3pt?

 

Horizontal engine is the big 1. Not all have them and the vertical shaft tillers will not work..

I had it backwards. The hitch arm adapter bolts under the motor. you could make 1 of them.. It should have a 3spd gearbox and be 8hp. That is the 1 that Sears used on the 3pts as well as a WB

 

The walk behind tillers are smaller in width. I think they are more like 24" where as the 3 point is 36 and 39. If that don't matter to you then all you have to do is take off the handle and fab up a bracket for the 3 point.
IMO a 24" walk behind is not worth to much travel.

 

I am not worried about the travel to get it. I will be in the area next month for my wife's work. While she is in meetings I could go get it! Boy would she be surprised!

Can the WB be widened without must trouble?

 

Hi again widing it is very simple you just need some heavy wall 1" tubing about 6" in length that slip into the tine center and then drill a 3/8" hole in the adapter tube and install some 3/8" clevis pins. The only thing is I seen that the original mfg added bearing support to the outter ends but hear again if needed that would not be hard.

 

You can add to the tine shaft....if you can find the parts. The tin you could make I guess.

They might 30" or 24" wide, you could ask him about that.

Another member used a Harbor freight 6 hp to repower a sears tiller.

 

Hi elsimon I converted a walk behind roto-spader to a pull type this spring was really very simple just had some 3.16" flat stocked bent to a 90 and welded gusets to the 90 bend then any kind of hitch can be adapted pull sleeve or 3pt as posted the walk behinds are only 24" and I have been watching for another Roto-Spader to add another set of tines but in the mean time I adapted a set from another old walk behind. It now measures approx 35" and it works great I like it so well I sold my Ariens Rocket V rear tine tiller. I haven't taken an photos of the extension yet.
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=231446

 

I have got to learn to proof read my fat finger typing. I am glad you all got the gist of what I was trying to say.

Hopefully, this works out. If it does there will be pictures of the project. For now I am just waiting on the selling to return my email questions.

Thanks to everyone for the input.

 

A year later and I have gone a couple of paths. The Roto-Spader I was trying to get fell thru. The seller never replied to my emails. I then started the conversion of my old Hahn tiller to be a 3pt. That was looking to be too big of a challenge. So I have continued to look for a Roto-Spader.

Well it happened. Yesterday morning I needed to take my camp trailer in to have it gone through after the new generator was bad. My son found a Craftsman walk behind tiller on a local post. For $50! He called on it and I grabbed it at lunch!

It does need some SERIOUS cleaning. It fired up with a bit of smoke that cleared quickly. It tilled nicely in his garden. We will be using this after we plow and disk the garden to mix the mulch, compost and "stuff" (manure) in.

Here are my questions:
Is there much difference between the Sears Roto-Spader and a Craftsman tiller?
It does have the speed shifter, so what is the gear shift positions?
Does someone have a belt cover they would be willing to part with? If not can someone give me the dimensions and I will build one.

Matt167 - Do you have any drawings showing dimensions for your adapter plate? How did it turn out? What advice would you give me?

 

That looks like a newer version of the old Roto Spader. I didn't actually do this conversion, The pictures were borrowed from another MTF thread. Th3 3pt hitch plate should not be diffacult to build. Just remove the engine, and bolt a plate on with the engine, just make sure it extends a few inches. Then you can set it up behind your tractor to see what needs to go where. I would make a series of hitch pin holes, so that you have adjustment

 

Rather than bolt a plate, I would use two pieces of angle iron that extend forward of the tiller, that would have a rod though it at the front that the lower 3pt arms would connect to. From the middle of this rod, you put a piece of 1" x 3/8" flat stock 10" long going upward at a 45* angle which will connect with the upper arm of the 3pt. Hope that makes sense?

Also, if you're looking to widen it, I would recommend adding outer supports at this time as well.

Another recommendation is that if you are looking to extend the tiller with, consider replaceable tines that you can manufacture or procure easily and cheaply.

Hope this helps!

Sent from the MTF Free App

 

Here's a sketch of a pin.

http://sears.pammar.net/cat0pin.pdf

You might want to possibly consider the following adapter to be used as a weld-on mounting method.

http://sears.pammar.net/dg1248.pdf

 

I read on here somewhere that the lower 3pt arms are shorter for use with a tiller. How much shorter? Is there a different bend to them as well?

Looking forward to tearing into this over the weekend. First task is to clean the thing up. I plan on taking it to the car wash with a can of degreaser and see what comes off!

PTSW - Thanks for the drawing of the pin.

 

I am not sure of the length of the "short" arms, but I have used my Roto-Spader with the standard arms and it worked well. Probably harder to lift than if you used the short ones, though. I know it took me both arms to do it.

The thing that you will absolutely want to do, though, is find/make the floating lift links that actually raise the 3-point arms. instead of the vertical section of the rod terminating in a 90° bend at the bottom where they attach to the arms, the rod is straight and has a nut at the bottom. Captured on the lift rod is a barrel with a clearance hole for the rod, so it can slide up and down. The barrel has a smaller section that goes through the arm and is pinned in place.

The reason for this is to allow the 3-point to float up without moving the lift handle. Several members that did not have the floating links have reported getting whacked in the elbow when the tiller hit a rock and jumped up.

Here is a picture of the short arms and floating links as well as the 3-point mounting plate that I found a while back and saved.

 

That is some great information! The pics really helped as well. Do you have any dimensions on the mounting plate? How thick of material is it? I don't have access to anything that will very thick metal so I will probably need to weld the sides on.

I took the tiller down to the car wash and sprayed it down. It was dark and when I got it home I noticed that there was still some dirt and grime on it. But at least I can see the bolts to take them off!

I will post more pics after I take it apart...or while I do so.

 

Some of the pictures came from my thread (a couple of summers ago) Here is the link. http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=195856&highlight=

I also found a general reference length to the overall length of the "short" lower arms (14-1/2in) vs the "regular" lower arms (19-1/2in)

In this thread http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=217658

I hope it helps

 

Here some pics at the tear down point I am down to. I am actually encouraged so far with what I have. The engine does smoke a bit at start up. This is every time. it doesn't matter how long it sits. I am probably looking at a ring job not too far down the road. At least I am hoping that is all that it turns out to be. That will be another thread down then.

Here are some observations and I would like comments and help.
1 - The tines are what I would call 4 tooth and are welded on to the shaft. I noticed is the pictures I have found of 3pt tiller that tines are bolted on 2 tooth style. Good or bad?
2 - The current mounting plate for the engine is interesting. There are countersink holes for the bolts to the engine and to the gear case. It is this way for the regular 3pt?
3 - The above mentioned plate. Should I replace it with a 3pt plate or add a plate on top of this plate or should I weld on the brackets I need?
4 - Can someone get me dimensions of a 3pt mounting bracket.

I will need more details on the clutch lever and linkage at some point after I get this mounting finished.

 

After cleaning up the existing adapter I decided to go ahead and fabricate my own bracket / mounting to convert my WB tiller to a 3pt.

After designing it I brought in a piece of 1/4" plywood to have it water jet cut and the mock up a bracket to see how it fits and make sure I got my measurements correct. The first pic is the cut out pieces. The second is the bracket assembled. The last pic is it in place. I did decide that I need to make it a little wider to fit the engine better. I also need to adjust the holes slightly smaller for a tighter fit with the "plow bolts".

Tonight I will go get the metal and tomorrow I should have it cut out and weld it tomorrow night.

For clarification: I do have the bolts all in place so I know the spacing is correct. Also for those of you that are wondering the front overhangs the guard so that in the future (next Winter) I can add additional tines and the support system. This overhang is the for pipe that will run along the front of the tiller for the support.

I am open to any comments or suggestions...

 

Here is an update for the week. After testing the wood bracket for fit I made the adjustment to the width and holes for a better fit and then sent the design to have the metal cut. While that was being done I worked on the engine.

I took the sediment bowl off and cleaned it. I drained the oil out of the engine. After the engine oil drained I put some gas in the crank case and swished it around to clean the dirt out. When I took the drain out the gas came out very black and dirty, so I did it again, and again and again until the gas came out somewhat clear. The PO told me it had sat for about 11 years without being touched (used or maintained). I believe it! Although with the gas tank off and empty I looked inside and I was surprised to see how clean it was. No rust and shinny! I pulled the spark plug to check it out. It was caked with grunge. I can't believe it would run like it was, but I actually started the engine before I bought it. I also replaced the fuel line. So the engine is ready to go.

I got the metal cut on Friday. I ground the edges to prep them for the welding and to remove the sharp edges. I got it welded on Saturday. After each welding I checked for fit. It is now ready to be sandblasted and then painted.I had to cut the side to fit the recoil cover.

I still need to figure out the linkage for the clutch but that will be after I get it all mounted up.

Please ask questions if you have any.

 

Lookin good. Keep up the great work.

Sent from the MTF Free App

 

At some point I will need someone to get me the dimensions for a belt guard. Any help would be helpful.

Thanks.

 

I wonder if the extra holes you drilled will actually be functional. Have you tried raising and lowering just the bracket that you made, utilizing the extra holes? I'm wondering if it will bind on the top link. Just a thought, but other than that, it looks great!

 

I just got my Roto Spader out of storage, and I'm planning to fab a 3-point plate like yours. I'll be happy to shoot you measurements of the belt guard. Lemme know if you need something specific.

I like the plywood prototype (and am jealous that you have access to a water jet.)

 

I have had several parts cut with it. I made a right side cover for Chevy&Sears for his 18/6, I had indexing plates made for the front plow, I had this done as well as a few other parts over the years.

The beauty of making the plywood version is I could make adjustments relatively cheap, which I did. With the angle of the water jet cut the square holes were actually slightly too big and when I bolted the wood bracket down the bolts rounded out the holes too easily. By bringing them in to the nominal size of the bolt thread I had to take a square file and enlarge them a little to fit the bolts but it ensured I would have a tight fit and it would hold.

Tonight I hope to prime it and paint it black!

 

That original plug is nasty! Looks like she burns some oil. No worries, it keeps the black flies down.