[JP Savage]

Measured toe in/toe out.
This machine has toe out.

Front distance is 7/16" wider than rear.
Tie rod has no adjustment other than bending it.
Going to try and bend the tie rod today and try to get front to be 3/16" to 1/4" narrower than rear.

See:

http://http://www.mytractorforum.com/16-simplicity-allis-chalmers-forum/968482-prestige-toe-need-advice.html

 

[JP Savage]

I put the link in wrong.
Lets try this

http://www.mytractorforum.com/16-si...rum.com/16-simplicity-allis-chalmers-forum/968482-prestige-toe-need-advice.html

 

[JP Savage]

Had to fix the fuel tank.

Disconnect negative cable from battery and secure so it will not touch the negative post.
Tip the seat forward and unplug connector from seat switch. Seat switch stays in the seat.
Remove seat switch cable from the clip on the seat frame holding it.

Remove 4 bolts that hold the seat frame to the slider mechanism.
Lift the seat off.

Under the front of the seat frame there are 2 bolts that hold the fender pan to the frame. Remove these two bolts.
Image of fender pan after removal will have to do. Forgot to take picture after seat frame was removed.

Remove cap bolt that holds handle to cruise control lever. T-30 Torx head. Pull handle off lever.

On each side where the fender pan meets the foot rest there are 2 bolts that hold the fender pan and foot rest to the frame. Need to access from under tractor. Remove all 4 bolts and nuts.
Bolt goes through fender pan, foot rest and frame bracket. Will need a 1/4” punch to line them up to reinstall bolts.

I rolled the tractor outside to do the next part. Did not want any fumes from the gas tank in the shop.
Remove gas cap.
Lift fender pan on left side, reach under fender pan and disconnect 2 wires that run to 12V cigarette lighter.
One black, one red. When you reconnect it is black to black and red to red. Use care, because they can be hooked up backwards.

Pull seat switch cable down through hole in fender pan.
Lift fender pan up and off the tractor and set aside.
Screw gas cap back on.

Area under seat had a lot of grass cuttings packed in it.
The fuel line connects to a steel pick up tube. Steel pick up tube goes into tank through a grommet.
I found the grommet had been mostly pulled out of the top of the tank and was at an angle. There was an air gap at the back of the grommet.
Looks like someone pulled too hard on the fuel line at some point. I held the grommet in place while using shop vac, scraper, and a brush to clean off the grass.
Did not take a picture of it at that point. Wish I had.
This is an image of the grommet pushed back into the tank, and the steel pick up tube ready to go back in.
You can see that when the wider part of the pickup tube is pushed into place, it will expand the rubber grommet and seal the grommet to the tank.
I used a small screwdriver to push on the lower edge of the rubber grommet and force it back into the hole while I pushed down on the grommet.

Steel pick up tube pulls up and out of the grommet. It has a 90° bend at the bottom.

Fuel line had a crack in it at the hose clamp, and felt soft. Decided to replace fuel line and fuel filter.
Note the fuel line runs from the pick up through a groove molded into the tank under the seat mounting bracket.
Then down to the frame, and under the foot rest panel. Inside the dash it runs under the battery tray. Between battery tray and bottom panel. It is a tight fit there, Comes out and hooks to the fuel filter.

As fuel line routed before changing it out.

I cut the line at the pickup tube.
Removed two bolts that hold the pan mounting bracket to the left side of the frame.
Then I could pull the line out from under the pan mounting bracket.

I reinstalled the grommet with a little RTV around the base of the thicker part, and top of the smaller part.
Put the pickup tube back in place.
Lined it up to point towards the slot in the tank. Put some black tape over the hose barb and let it sit overnight.
Plugged the old hose end with a 1/4” bolt. Rolled the tractor back inside.

Next morning I again rolled the tractor outside. Cut the line where it attached to the fuel filter, drained the hose and the filter into a catch pan under the tractor. Pulled all the hose clamps off to reuse. Pulled the hose off the fuel pump. That line came off the nipple easy, where the others were hard to pull off.
Went to town and bought 6 feet of 1/4” ID fuel line. And a new clear plastic fuel filter.

I pushed half of a 4” piece of 1/4” wooden dowel into the old fuel line. Could have used 1/4” metal rod.
Pushed the other half into the new fuel line. Ran a 4” piece of black electrical tape the long way down each side of the two hoses. Then put a single wrap of tape spiraling around the fuel line from one end of the lateral tape to the other. Needed to keep it as thin as possible. The fit under the battery tray is very tight.

While pulling the old line from the rear, I worked the new line under the fire wall and up under the battery tray.
Pushed and pulled until it came out from under the foot rest pan. Still had to push the line from up front to work the new line back to the fitting.
Took the tape off and pulled the dowel out. Put the new line under the cable ties where the old line was routed. Then in the slot under the seat mount bracket.
Put the hose clamp on the hose first, back a couple inches from the end, then pushed it on the pickup tube.
RTV did not stick to the plastic tank. Can turn the grommet.
Moved hose clamp up to clamp on the barb. Used 2 new cable ties to tie the fuel line tighter to the tractor so this will not happen again.
Put the two bolts back into the left side of the pan mounting bracket.
Put a new piece of fuel line about a foot long on the fuel pump and installed the new fuel filter.
I like using these clear plastic filters. You can see if it starts getting crud in it.
Make sure you match up with the direction of flow arrow on the filter. Arrow should point to fuel pump.
Marked where fuel line should be cut to install on inlet of fuel filter. Cut it and install on fuel filter.

Finished engine end.
You can also see the tie rod has been straightened and is back in place.

Wish I had remembered to take pictures of the new fuel line in place before I put the fender pan back on. I seem to get too rushed as I put it all back together and forget about pictures.

Bought 6 feet of 1/4” hose and had just short of a foot left over.

This is the oddest shaped fuel tank I have dealt with.
If you fill the tank, the level of the fuel will be up above the point where the pickup tube and grommet is installed. Seems to me there could be a lot of failures out in garages and sheds. But that must not be happening, or I am sure we would have heard about it.

I filled the tank to about 3” below top of filler spout while I had the fender pan off and saw no leakage after an hour.
So I put it all back together.
Reverse order of removal. Remember to run the seat switch cable up through the fender pan, and connect the 12V socket correctly.

 

[JP Savage]

Fuel line and fuel tank, second try

Fuel hose connection to IN side of fuel filter kept leaking fuel. Very slow drip. OUT side of filter also leaked.
Had 1/4” ID fuel line up onto the 5/16” barb and using 2 mechanical clamps. OUT side finally sealed, but IN side still leaked. Fuel drips felt very oily. Left oily stain on the floor.
Cut 2” off new line on IN side and fastened again. Still leaked.
Fuel line felt stiff, but had a manufacture date printed on the side of Sep 2014 so not old hose.
I have not run into this before. Usually just push the fuel line onto the barb and use a spring clamp to seal it.
Decided I needed different fuel line. Went to NAPA and bought some different 1/4” ID fuel line they had which was softer and more supple. Was also a tiny bit larger OD so I think the spring clamps will work better on it. Was 1/4” ID fuel line they use for PVC, but rated for fuel as long as not over 60 psi.

Drips felt oily between my fingers which I have no explanation for. Dipped a clean metal rod in the gas tank and that gas felt oily too.

While working on the fuel fittings I would roll tractor outside. I put a catch pan under the tractor to catch any gas that spilled out. I left that pan outside overnight. Next day gas was gone, thin coating of oil in one corner.
Called owner. He said he had not put any oil in the gas and knew better. Also found out he did not use a stabilizer of any kind.
Gas in tank would have been maybe a half gallon of his old gas from last fall, and the gas that I had added earlier.
My gas was from my 5 gal can. Fuel I bought last fall for snow blowing but never needed. Had Stabil in it.
Any one want to hazard a guess as to why it seems to be so oily?

Took seat and fender pan off again to replace the fuel line.

Found it is easier to remove seat frame if you take the two seat hinge bolts out of the frame first, and remove the seat.
These bolts have a spacer that fits into the seat frame to act as a hinge. Bolt and nut tightens against the spacer and that leaves the seat loose to tip up and down. Once the seat is off, you can use a socket wrench, rather than a open end wrench, on the two front bolts that hold the seat frame to the slider.

When I removed the fender pan I found the grommet in the fuel tank for the pick up tube was leaking. Top of tank by the inlet was wet, there was gas standing in the indent next to the grommet. I will order a new grommet.
P/N is 1654930SM. $2.63 on Partstree. (Plus freight).

I pulled the fuel line off the fuel pump and put that end of the line in a gas can to let the tank drain. Decided that since the gas felt so oily I was going to empty all the gas out of the tank and put fresh, non oxygenated gas in. Drains faster if you loosen the gas cap.

Took the gas line off the fuel filter. Cleaned the oily gas off it with carb cleaner. Put the dowel rod in it and taped it again with a piece down each side, and one spiral wrap. I pulled from the rear and worked the new line up under the battery box. Pulling on the old and pushing on the new. Once the old hose cleared the battery box, new hose was easy to pull through. It is much softer than what I first used.

Took off the tape, pulled the dowel out and ran the hose through the cable ties and up under the seat bracket. Did not have to take the two bolts out of the left side of the seat bracket. Hose slipped in and out. I think the first time it was the dried grass wedged in there that kept it from coming out.

Instead of ordering the Fuel Tank Bushing I found it locally for $4.35. Part number was EXM 46-6560.
Dealer told me they have over 50 in house. It is used in a lot of different tractors, and other gas powered equipment with plastic fuel tanks. MTD, Murray, JD, Cub, Snapper, Exmark and so on. And they go through a lot of them. The Gasohol makes them go soft.

The end on the old one that goes in the hole on the fuel tank is swollen and softer than the new one.

Guy at the dealer told me to lightly coat the rubber grommet with Petroleum Jelly before I pushed it into the tank.
And also lube the top of the steel pickup tube with Petroleum Jelly before I insert it in the grommet. (aka Fuel Tank Bushing)
New one was easier to start into the tank. Felt firmer and pushed in harder. And when I inserted the steel pickup tube into it, it felt like the rubber really gripped the tank.

Went back to the fuel filter end and finished that up. Used spring clips, on fittings, but hung an extra open mechanical clamp on the IN side in case it leaked. It was not needed, so next day I took it off.

Tied extra cable ties to fuel line where it is under the fender pan. One at old cable tie and also one at hole in frame.
This should prevent fuel line from being pulled out again.
Also left a little extra slack between seat bracket and steel pick up tube.

Filled the tank to bottom of the fill tube. After an hour it did not leak so I put fender pan and seat back on.


I made a mistake earlier. 12V power outlet is wired differently than I had stated above. Not red to red and black to black.
Tractor side Positive wire is R/Y (Red with Yellow stripe) Negative wire Black.
Both wires have male 1/4” spade connectors.

12V power outlet Positive wire is Red, Negative wire is White. Both have 1/4” female spade connectors.

Red/Yellow wire on harness to Red wire on outlet.
Black wire on tractor harness to white wire on outlet.

Thought I would point out when you reattach the front of the seat there are 3 positions for the height of the front of the seat. The square on carriage bolt head fits in the square hole on the bracket.

Seat bolt and spacer for front of seat and front of seat bracket.

Cruise control level. Bolt for handle goes through bolt hole.

Owner keeps adding things for me to do.
So now on to changing the oil and filters on the Tuff Torq K71E.

 

[Andy]

Great job, Thanks for sharing.

 

[JP Savage]

Great job, Thanks for sharing.

Thank you. One can only try. Hope it helps someone on down the line.

 

[JP Savage]

Time to change transaxle oil and the two filters.

Simplicity Prestige with P/S, (Torque Generator) and hydraulic deck lift.
Has a Tuff Torq K71E transaxle.

Checking the oil it seemed a little dark but still looked OK.
I have driven the GT around my place and had noticed on the hills it was a bit weaker and had a loud whine. Did not whine otherwise, just on the hills. Owner said he was having a harder time pulling a trailer up the hill into the hay loft of his barn.
Ordered the internal filter from Tuff Torq. P/N 187Q0699150 $33.00 plus freight. In the door at $48.00 Took a week to get here.

The rear spin on filter was a Simplicity P/N 1719168. I went to local Simplicity dealer and they told me they could not get the 1719168 any more. They said Simplicity now recommends a filter made by Hydro Gear, P/N 51563.
Their price was $18.00. I have used this filter on other hydro transaxles. It is a suction type filter.
I have bought them before off Ebay at $15.00 for Qty. 2 with free shipping. Need to keep checking every couple of days.
Spin on filter is located behind the transaxle, up on the frame.

The hose from the reservoir to the transaxle was in the way on this one. Just have to work around it.

I used a filter wrench like this one to get the spin on filter off. Has a square hole for a 3/8 drive socket wrench in the bottom. Had to run to town and get one. $6.00
And I really needed it.

I blocked the front tires with pieces of 2x4 so it could not roll forward or backwards.
I took off the left rear wheel. Jacked up the whole rear end and put a 6 x6 block under the right tire.
And a jack stand under the left axle. You need to have the left tire and wheel off to access the fill port.

I put a drain pan under the transaxle. Removed cap from reservoir tank. Cleaned area around the fill port through the access hole left side rear. Clean off the area around the access cover for internal filter and clean around the 2 x 14mm head drain bolts.

Unscrew 2 drain bolts with 14mm hex heads. One is located in front, just right of internal filter. The other one is located on left side towards rear.
They are the only bolts with 14mm heads on the bottom of the transaxle.

Removed fill port cap.

Unscrew black access cap from transaxle to access internal filter. Use a 3/8 drive socket wrench. Square drive fits right into it.
I had a small pocket magnet I let the oil from the filter port drain over to see if any metal flakes or bits stuck to it.

When you take the access cover off, you will see the end of the filter with the spring on it.

Both of the 14mm bolts have a washer with a rubber edge built in. Don't over tighten when you put them back in.

Pull the internal filter out. This one was black. Oil was not black, but looked a little dark. It smelled OK. No burn smell.

New O ring that came with the filter is for the access cover. Clean the access cover up and install new O ring on the cover.

I made a swab from a bamboo skewer stick and wrapped a piece of paper towel around one end. Then tied the paper towel on.
Used this to swab out the bottom of the internal filter housing to see if any crud was in there. Came out clean.

Reinstalled the fill plug while I worked with the spin on filter to keep dirt out of the fill hole.

Removed rear spin on filter.
Same gorilla that installed the engine oil filter must have put this one on too.
I worked the filter wrench around the oil hose from the reservoir tank. Then slid it over the bottom of the filter. Put my socket extension drive in the hole and tried to turn it.
It kept slipping. So I had to tap it up on to the filter with a rubber hammer. Ended up getting a 2 foot piece of pipe to slip over the socket wrench handle to extend it. I had to make one full turn of the filter to get it to the tightness it should have been at. Then another full turn to get it loose on the pipe threads.
It was on there way too tight.

When the filter came loose, I had to pull the drain pan back farther to catch the spill. That was when I realized I had set the right tire down on the wire handle of the drain pan. And the jack stand on the left side was in the way. Had to pull hard and lift it to bend the handle and get it in to place quickly.

Took new spin on filter over to the bench and filled it with new oil. Let it soak in for a bit. Refilled it and let it soak again. Then topped it off.

 

[JP Savage]

Took a picture of the filter holder before I installed the filter.

Tube running out the right side is connected to the center threaded pipe. Then runs forward to the rear most connector of two connectors on the transaxle. They are towards the front on the right side of the transaxle.

Tube on left side of filter mounts connects to the concave dome of filter housing. The dome covers the ring of holes around the filter base.

The two fittings on right side of transaxle.

Dipped my finger in the new oil in the filter and wiped it round the rubber gasket on the filter.
Earlier I had cleaned up the filter mount surface where the gasket goes.
Got behind and under tractor and slowly lifted filter up and into place. Screwed it on snug, then ¾ turn more by hand.

Installed the internal filter back in it's housing. Spring end towards front. Other end of filter has a rubber gasket that has to fit inside a ring in the back of the housing. I wiggled it until I felt it go into place.

Coated the O ring on the access cover with new oil and screwed it into place pretty snug.

Installed the two 14mm head drain screws back in place. Only snugged them up. Not too tight.

Removed the fill port cap again.

Put a funnel with a long spout through the access hole and into the fill port.

Put a piece of cord up over the end of the fuel tank, and under the fender pan, next to the fuel fill tube.
Let it hang down so I could tie the funnel in place and put some up pressure on the end of the funnel to hold it into place.
That way I did not have to hold it into place.

Poured in 2 Qt of 5W-50 oil. Went and got the partial bottle I had used to fill the filter and slowly poured in about 12 more oz. That brought oil level to the top of the fill port. Air bubbled out. Removed the funnel and screwed the fill port cap back in.

Put the left wheel back on and set the tractor down.

Added 2 Qts. of oil through the reservoir fill hole. Put the cap on the hole and rolled the tractor outside.
Jacked it up and set it on two jack stands.
Started the engine and at a low idle engaged the forward motion pedal. I had wheels turning right away. I think because I filled the oil filter and put extra oil in the main body.

Tuff Torq purge instructions below.
In addition to this I moved the deck lift up and down a few times while still on the jack stands and had wheels turning.

1. Check oil level.

2. Place vehicle's drive axle on jack stands with wheels off floor.

3. Start engine and operate at low idle speed.

4.Depress and hold the forward pedal and open and close the bypass (tow) valve a few times. Next do the same for reverse. This only takes a couple of seconds to do. Note the bypass is typically the rod that is located on the back of the tractor that you can pull out to free-wheel the unit. Also note that this may take a partner or some assistance.

5. Depress the forward and reverse pedal(s) in a back and forth type motion with the bypass valve in the run position.

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the axles start to move. This should only take a couple of times.

7. When the axle starts to move, increase the engine speed.

8. Repeat depressing the forward and reverse pedal until transaxle gives full response.

9. Turn the engine off. Remove jack stands while placing vehicle's wheels on floor.

10. Recheck and top-off oil level.

Took it for a spin. Response to pedal much faster.
On the flats the transaxle seems to be quieter and it was not really loud before. Hooked on my firewood hauling trailer and pulled it around on the flats. Transaxle is stronger. No whine.

Steering is (Searching for a word) Firmer? Stiffer? Just a little harder to turn the wheel. Drift seems to have gone away. Dropped off the trailer and tried the hills.
Grass was wet and I did not want to try the trailer on the grass on the hills.
On the hills the transaxle is stronger. Runs right up them with no whine at all.

Put the deck lift down and checked oil level in reservoir. Had to add about 2 oz.
Out of 5 Qt. I have 8 oz left over.

Parked on cardboard over night. No leaks. No leaks for two days.

 

[kb4212]

Wish I had a neighbor like you!!! I have the same problem.

 

[Dpregs]

Awesome right up! I know what I am doing this winter!

 

[stevegrmi]

Old thread . . new info . . I was able to change out the steering pinion shaft/bearing from the bottom end without disassembling the the upper steering tower/dashboard. I replaced the existing two mounting bolts for the bearing with appropriate carriage bolts as there were existing square holes in frame. A total of 5 nuts/bolts are necessary to be removed from under unit to effect this repair.