Our fridge is 13 years old, nothing fancy. It didn't have apparent trouble running off our "normal" 5500W generator. I've heard that some newer furnaces can have trouble running on non-inverter generators.

From what I've read, a line conditioner doesn't sound like it will do much to clean up the power. The sine wave from a non-inverter generator can be rather ugly. It didn't seem like line conditioners will do much for that.

The load you're describing doesn't seem like that much, to me. At least if the fridge & freezer weren't starting their compressors at the same time. If you were concerned about this, and could still return your generator, you have some options. The Harbor Freight Predator 3500W inverter generator often goes on sale for around $690. It might have enough capacity to do run what you're listing.

This spring, I ran our house for 3 days on an EU2000i 2000W inverter generator. It ran the fridge, furnace, lights (fluorescent & LED), TV, PS4, WiFi router, etc. It was able to run the microwave with the output power at around 40%. It's an inverter-style microwave, which actually draws fewer, constant watts when the power is turned down, vs just turning full power on and off. At full-power, the microwave would immediately overload the generator.

We have natural gas for heat (forced hot air), hot water, and the stove. So that helps keep the electrical load down. Compared with our previous 5500W generator, it's really quiet, is very good on gas (4-10 hours on 1 gallon, depending on load), and has a very clean electrical output.

Now, we had to be mindful of what we ran at once. And I've since added a second unit to run in parallel, for some more headroom, 4000W. But we functioned with 2000W. So 3500W might be enough for what you're describing, if you wanted to go that route.

 

My wife went out and purchased a 5250 watt PowerBoss portable generator (Briggs & Stratton engine)

After some research, I now see that the newer inverter generators are better. However, is anyone willing to comment on the following:

I'm fairly confident I will only use this generator to power the following:

1- A large side by side refrigerator freezer
2- A large upright freezer
3- Probably four 100 watt lamps
4- A couple of small portable fans
5- Possibly an old portable TV

Since the TV, refrigerator-freezer and upright freezer or more than 15 years old, I probably don't have to worry about sensitive electronic features - is that a fair assumption?

However, should I replace the refrigerator in the near future (one with sensitive electronics), I would then possibly need to be concerned with the older generator technology versus the newer inverter type generators. Is this true?

Without spending too much, is there a reasonable way to "clean-up" the power output from this PowerBoss? Something like a line conditioner?

Other thoughts?

If wife bought it, go with it and tell her how good she done. (no matter what happens):tango_face_wink:

It will do ok running the fridge and freezer, some lights. When you first fire it up plug in the freezer and wait 3 min and plug in the fridge. the gen will hump up little bit if both start at same time.

The TV probably won't like the gen. (electronics is why)
I stay with old style freezers and fridges for the non-inverter emergency gens.

No you cannot clean it up. (with powers conditioners)
A UPS will actually constantly beep a failure when on a small gen.

 

Thanks for the quick responses!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you're willing, I have a few other concerns:

1- Do all "standard" generators output the same quality power. This PowerBoss generator (model 030660 - 5250 watt - Briggs engine) cost $675 plus tax. I see where other comparable sized name brand models may list for much more. Does this mean the output on these particular models is most likely cleaner? Or, is a generator a generator???

2- "Standard" generators have been around for a long while. Either the "dirty" output isn't that bad for appliances OR manufacturers were providing a product for those who simply demanded they have a backup power source; even though they realized this backup power wasn't the best for their appliances. So, which is it - they aren't that bad or folks are willing to gamble with the unclean power?

3- More than likely our current refrigerator and upright freezer will need to be replaced in the near future. I doubt this PowerBoss model can provide a safe output for the newer appliances. Is this an accurate assumption?

Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

1- Do all "standard" generators output the same quality power. This PowerBoss generator (model 030660 - 5250 watt - Briggs engine) cost $675 plus tax. I see where other comparable sized name brand models may list for much more. Does this mean the output on these particular models is most likely cleaner? Or, is a generator a generator???

No. Some conventional generators are rated by the manufacturer for <5% THD (Total Harmonic Distortion), other conventional generators are rated as high as 10%-15% THD. I'm not sure what makes all the difference, I suspect the metals used in the generator head, the engine governor, and the voltage regulator are the major differences.

2- "Standard" generators have been around for a long while. Either the "dirty" output isn't that bad for appliances OR manufacturers were providing a product for those who simply demanded they have a backup power source; even though they realized this backup power wasn't the best for their appliances. So, which is it - they aren't that bad or folks are willing to gamble with the unclean power?

Standard electric motors (old fridge/freezer, corded drill, shop vacuum) and resistive loads (incandescent lights, heating elements) will run on almost any power that bears the slightest resemblance to AC power... voltage can be way off, frequency can be way off, THD can be through the roof. Some "sensitive electronics" will run on crappy power for substantial amounts of time, but will be wearing out much quicker - made up numbers ahead: your TV will run 5,000 hours on clean grid power, but every hour on crappy generator power puts 100 hours worth of wear on the TV. If you run the TV for 4 hours a year on terrible generator power will you ever notice your TV died at 3,000 hours instead of 5,000? You'll notice if the TV was at 4,500 hours then dies on generator power, but you won't notice if the TV dies a month after using the generator while on grid power. Some "sensitive electronics" just won't run at all if the power is really bad.

3- More than likely our current refrigerator and upright freezer will need to be replaced in the near future. I doubt this PowerBoss model can provide a safe output for the newer appliances. Is this an accurate assumption?

That totally depends on that type of newer appliances you intend to buy.

 

In general a PORTABLE emergency gen's frequency and voltage is not as stable as a stationery unit and the portable are built as temporary service where as a stationery larger gen is more adapt to be built for heavier varying loadsm stable frequency and voltage.

Standard PORTABLE emergency gen's are not really designed to operate electronic items that require a clean stable power source. You need to be ready to accept the fact that if the electronic item fails/smokes, etc while being operated on a Portable emergency gen it's your fault.

This is sometimes mentioned in the owners manual of the gen (what not to attempt operating) or the electronic items, appliances but not always.
If you are in a area where you need to operate a electronic type fridge/freezer or other electronic appliances on a emergency gen you might want to check warranties mentioning such and what type of portable emergency gen would be required to operated the required loads with clean power and see if your home owners insurance will cover the appliances failure. (not mentioning the fact they were being operated on a small portable emergency gen.

 

I know some pellet stoves that have printed circuit boards will fry if run on an old generator,my older brother had his croak a few hours after using it with an old generator during a power failure..
I suppose new "smart" appliances won't like being operated with an old generator as well..and TV's,computers,need a "clean" constant voltage supply to operate correctly and not get damaged..

 

OK, I have a new thought!

I returned the PowerBoss today and went and looked at the Honda generators. I have two in mind and would like to see what the folks here think. Each one has its Pros and Cons

1: EU3000iS - true inverter - 3000 watt - MSRP: $2329.95

2: EM4000S - Intelligent Automatic Voltage Regulation - 4000 watt - MSRP: $2249.95

The dealer will sell either one for $1995.00

I like the idea of pure clean power with the EU3000, but I also like the additional wattage the EM4000 offers.

If anyone knows about the EM4000S and its power output, I would be appreciative.

I was just curious to see which unit the majority would go with and why.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

The 3000W inverter will have cleaner output than the 4000W, plus being quieter & better on gas. But it only outputs 110V (not 220V), like pretty much all inverters (except the EU7000iS). It's a question of what output you need.

A 220V generator is easier to wire into your house, if you wanted to do that. Most generator tie-in kits are expecting 220V, not 110V.

For a less-expensive inverter, Honda introduced a 2800W (2500W continuous) inverter for $1,000, the EG2800i:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Honda-2-800-Watt-Gasoline-Powered-Portable-Inverter-Generator-with-Eco-Throttle-and-Oil-Alert-EG2800i/303814132

The engine isn't fully-shrouded, so it will be louder than the EU-series. But you get most of the inverter benefits, albeit less wattage than the EU3000iS (2800W continuous).

If you're open to used, you can save more. I got my pair of EU2000i units for the price of the EG2800i, with 4000W (3200W continuous) when running in parallel. Though I had to watch Craigslist for a while. And a single machine is simpler logistically, of course. But these do offer some benefits, like redundancy, and the fact that the 2000W inverter is light enough to handle easily, for bringing camping, to a cookout, etc. I originally bought the first one for hobby use, needing portable quiet power, before trying it during an outage.

 

Good point Tractor-Holic, anecdotally I have heard furnaces and boilers seem to have really sensitive and really fragile electronics.
@tvl: $2,000 is way way way more than you need to spend to accomplish the use case you laid out in your original post... I mean if you can afford it go for it, but I would get a Northern Tool Powerhorse generator rated at <5% THD (safe for sensitive electronics) and spend the other $1,500 on other things like a generator shed to protect it from the elements and thieves, or a transfer panel or back-feed interlock kit...

 

Thanks for the input folks!

So, I'm thinking you guys don't feel the 4000 watt IVAR (EM4000S) unit will produce clean enough power for equipment with sensitive electronics. And, that really was my main concern. However, the Honda website application list for the Em4000S has computers listed as well. Therefore, I was hoping it would produce a clean enough signal for sensitive electronics. If it would, I would really rather have this unit over the 3000 watt unit.

The dealer didn't really seem to know for sure either????? I wonder how I can find out? I don't see any phone numbers listed on the Honda website for questions!

Thanks again!

 

You can contact Honda's power equipment support (including generators) here:
Honda Power Equipment - Contact Us

I can't comment on whether the EM4000S would be "clean enough". Just that it won't be as clean as an inverter. Hopefully Honda can provide more info.

 

BUT, you don't need a 0.01% THD inverter to run sensitive electronics, you only need "clean enough" (<6% THD) which many conventional generators provide if you read the specs. I also read somewhere; resistive loads like incandescent light bulbs and heating elements do great things for cleaning up crappy power from cheap generators. I can't prove it but I can't dispute it (and I'm not spending $3,000-$4,000 on a power quality analyzer to test it).