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Picked up a 317... some questions on the KT17

2.2K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  truckin88  
#1 ·
(boy this got long...)

So a little back story first on my new to me machine. This 317 I picked up supposedly sat in a garage for several years until the owner decided to sell it. He dumped a bottle of Marvel Mystery oil into the two cylinders to "loosen it up" so that he could start it. He started it, it smoked like **** so he sold it to the person that I bought it from. That person put new plugs in it, painted it and then mowed two lawns with it, it kept smoking like **** so he sold it again and now it's mine. I ID'd the engine and it appears to be a series I motor and I've read about a lot of problems with this motor.

So the smoke is definitely white, no blue tinge to it, nor does it smell like burning oil but you could hide an advancing platoon in the smoke cloud generated by it. I checked the oil level and it was low, so I topped it off and then I checked the compression and got about 89 on cylinder #1 and 86 on #2. The service manual says below 90psi and you've got problems, IE head gasket.

I checked the breather, which appeared to have been dumping oil for a while prior (but not now) and the mesh pad looked fairly clean but the red umbrella valve was just flopping loose and won't stay secure where it's supposed to be.

I then pulled the heads off, not much carbon and no scoring, the cylinder walls look pretty good but there was some oil in the bottom of the cylinder. I haven't measured them yet, but with the oil I'm suspecting possible bad rings?

So with all that, where do I start to get rid of the smoke? Could the fluid I found in the cylinder be left over Marvel Mystery oil? How long does it take for that to burn off? There is definitely oil residue in the muffler and it's sticky/sludgy, maybe that's my problem? How long would it take for the mystery oil to burn off? I've only pulled the heads off once, I haven't pulled them again to see if more oil has found it's way there.

If the cylinders aren't too far over original measurements, should I just throw some rings in it, new head gaskets and run it till it blows and then replace it? Seems like with the good compression it'd be worth trying to save it before dumping $1800 into a replacement motor or am I really just delaying the inevitable?
 
#2 ·
I just finished reringing a Series II in another tread. I would measure the cylinders and see what you have and go from there. If it is needing rings you should be able to do it for $250 or less using genuine Kohler parts.

Later,
Justin
 
#11 ·
I used to think it was like the old axiom that when you buy a new model car you begin to see them everywhere but I do perceive many more threads about 317's than in the past.
 
#8 ·
I know what a lot of guys say about the Series1 engine. I have a Series 1 in my 317 that the previous owner reringed not long ago. I have some concern about it, but not much at this time and here is why, If the Series 1 has lasted this long in my and your machine without seizing up then I say we have a good chance that it isn't going to and would consiider just reringing it. Just my opinion. If mine starts smoking I will probably consider finding a Series 2 and have it rebuilt and slap in it. :trink39:
 
#9 ·
I have had 3 317 with the dreaded series 1 engine. I had tillers decks and front push blades on all of them. Including the one I have now. I repair, rebuild, Buy and sell john Deere garden tractors. I have heard A lot of bad about the series 1 Kohler. I have had all good experiances form them.. I feel a good running Kohler is a good/sounding/powerfull engine.Now I do add A bit of STP when I change the OIl..
 
#10 ·
My only concern about the series 1 engine is there is this tractor will eventually be used on some decent hills.

I haven't had a chance to work on it much as I've been traveling for work, but I've been looking for possible donor engines. How hard is to add the additional driveshaft for both front and rear operation? I've found a few good candidates but they've only got a driveshaft sticking out on one side.