Well here it goes, my first question and sorry if it sounds like a stupid one. Anyhow I recently bought a Gravely type L walk behind (plate says "L" only, not L-8 or anything like that) and want to do a tune-up/fluid change. Watched some guy do it on you tube and the drain bolt was just under left wheel hub, but the same bolt seems to be on the right side to? Does this mean anything or is it just there? And how do I go about changing tranny oil? I bought the proper oil (SAE-30), Gravely oil filter (at shop in Dunbar W.Va.) 80-90 lube, a grease gun (not WW-2 M3) and a tube of the proper grease for the grease fitting that is right on the part that turns into the mower deck. Any help would be great. I really wanna get this stuff done because I got this for my son to mow his property with and would love to get it over to him. Thanks. P.S...I got new plug, wire and head gasket because I want to take head off and clean it up. What are the bolts torqued to on head? Thanks again.
Gerrard
Only the left bolt is open to the oil. On L models the engine and trans share oil. I don't know torque, I think I have a PDF on one of these devices that has it but last time I took a head off I just snugged em up in a cross cross pattern. Oh and I used anti-seize too, and if a bolt doesn't want to come out, don't force it. What I've had success with is soaking it with pb blaster, then tap on the wrench with a hammer in both directions.
Welcome Gerrard!
Yes, the bottom axle housing bolt (on the left side only!) doubles as the drain plug. Many machines will have an oversize copper or plastic washer under it to point out that it's special, but those often get lost.
You don't say what mower you have, but they're mostly pretty similar. The drive housing will have a grease fitting on the top or side, just grease it until some squirts out the edges. Most of the mower gearboxes take 90W, there will generally be a filler on top or side, and a small plug which is the fill level. If you post pix, we can refine.
Head bolts are torqued to 20 ft/lb.
You can tell what year your machine is by finding the data plate above the tank, and looking up the S/N in the stickies above.
I suggest you take a look at GravelyManuals.com - OldGravelys.info: : and download a manual for approximately your year. There's a mountain of good information there about the care and feeding of these machines.
Keep those cards and letters coming, and :wwp:
Yes, the bottom axle housing bolt (on the left side only!) doubles as the drain plug. Many machines will have an oversize copper or plastic washer under it to point out that it's special, but those often get lost.
You don't say what mower you have, but they're mostly pretty similar. The drive housing will have a grease fitting on the top or side, just grease it until some squirts out the edges. Most of the mower gearboxes take 90W, there will generally be a filler on top or side, and a small plug which is the fill level. If you post pix, we can refine.
Head bolts are torqued to 20 ft/lb.
You can tell what year your machine is by finding the data plate above the tank, and looking up the S/N in the stickies above.
I suggest you take a look at GravelyManuals.com - OldGravelys.info: : and download a manual for approximately your year. There's a mountain of good information there about the care and feeding of these machines.
Keep those cards and letters coming, and :wwp:
Ah yeah that explains the comment I got on my vid.
On L/C's engine and transmission oil are shared and the oil pick up is in the trans. Oil has come along way 50 or 60 years just remember that :fing32:
Head bolts are 20 ft lbs. Run it 10 or 15 minutes and recheck them
:MTF_wel2:
Oh and :wwp: :thThumbsU
On L/C's engine and transmission oil are shared and the oil pick up is in the trans. Oil has come along way 50 or 60 years just remember that :fing32:
Head bolts are 20 ft lbs. Run it 10 or 15 minutes and recheck them
:MTF_wel2:
Oh and :wwp: :thThumbsU
Thanks a bunch guys (or gals if the shoe fits), Im not real dum (sp?) lol. But I just fear bustin into something and not having any correct info on it, that really scares me for some reason. I actually just bought off net a DVD that supposedly has like 174 manuals & maint. on just about tvery Gravely they ever made, prob is I cant get my lap-top to play the gol-dern thing, and my DVD/disk player said "cannot play this disk/or DVD. My son said thats probably because its data text and pictures, I dont know but Im pretty bummed out about it cause I waited for it for like 8 days. Ill take my laptop to work and have someone show me. Anyhow my Gravley is Mod. L, ser.#2M42204 and Manufacture # is " J-7889, when I showed the older guy at Gravley place my numbers yesterday he said "Huumm J huh?...They made some J's and it was the best ones they ever made" (I cant confirm that tho) but anyhow I paid a whopping $ 300 for it! No leaks and looks very good, I looked up ser.#' as best I could on some website and it "might" be a 1966 model and a 5 hp or 5.5 maybe engine? It has a 30" round mower deck w/single blade, I havent actually measured it but I recon its 30", I will rule it in a little while when I go back outside. I have pic's on my phone and will get someone to help me post them. Its a pull start, but I want that because I dont want a battery on it and if its right two pulls max should start it I hear. The deck is kinda ugly and Im amazed at the side-skids someone apparently made to replace the orig ones, they are each two 3/8 or 1/2" re-bars welded together in side by side fashion grinded flat where they drag ground and are of course turned-up on the ends, they look so good I dont even care that they arent original! (at least I certainly think they aint). But Ive talked enuf, sorry but I love these things and would like to put the double-tires on it like the one I used to use plus I assume it will be harder to turn-over on my sons hill out back of his place. I guess I just get those adapters and bolt them on and get some wheels and tires for it, another day and another pay check. Thanks everyone.
Thank you very much, I managed to get yr. correct (luck I can assure you) but a 6.6 hp huh? Well thats good, better than the 5 or 5.5 I thought that site said. I messed w/it today but as expected when working on something 50 yrs. old every time I look at it or remove something on it Im like "Oh crap" Like the fan I discovered on it a little while ago, I know one thing it doesnt seem to turn very easily by hand and that makes me nervous. That fan doesnt exactly jump out at you, I honestly didnt see it before, and I do realize probably 95% of people would never even admitt such a thing but I am not a pretentious person. Guns are my real love but I dont need any more of them and have wanted a Gravely for years now to give to my son, plus it gives me something interesting to do and I would love to restore it. It seems mechanicially sound but it does have a cpl different colors of red and orange-ish on it so Im sure it looks a little better than it actually is. Im gonna do it though, might take all summer but Im gonna do it. I have limited funds (pawned a .44 mag to get it) and work full time of course but im gonna do it, just comming to a stopping-point is my problem. I'll do it w/you all's help and advice if you dont mind, or untill I get ran off. lol.
I made a pretty dumb comment about the fan I discovered on my type L last night as I was comming inside for the day but having thought about it for about 30 seconds after-posting it Im pretty certain it turns constantly with the belt. I mean I freaked-out and was thinking as if it was a car or something like it was gonna have a temp. controlled on/off limit control. I have to stop thinking like Im working on a car. I probably should get the new bearings I saw online last night because Im gonna take all of that apart anyway. What Im stuck on now is I want to paint/clean up the deck but I was wanting to put some kind of no-stick (or less-sticky) finnish on the underside of the mower deck. I originally thought about some type of rino-liner but its so rough the clippings and stuff would hang-up and inbed itself pretty bad so I guess I need something real slick that the clippings wont stick to, or am I over-thinking this? Any ideas for this dilemma anyone?
Think "simple" 
The fan turns all the time. No thermostat or anything.
The thing I do on decks, at least when I'm being diligent about it, is put on as many coats of paint as I can stand. I use up whatever rattle cans of spray enamel I have lying around, until I run out of paint or patience. A good heavy coat of paint helps grass not stick, and I don't have to remember to spray the non-stick spray in there every year.
The fan turns all the time. No thermostat or anything.The thing I do on decks, at least when I'm being diligent about it, is put on as many coats of paint as I can stand. I use up whatever rattle cans of spray enamel I have lying around, until I run out of paint or patience. A good heavy coat of paint helps grass not stick, and I don't have to remember to spray the non-stick spray in there every year.
Ahh yea, "enamel" is the key, about as slick as you can get and stay simple with it. I also am thinking about finding someone to sand-blast the ugly rough/rust covered head if I dont think I can get anywhere with it with wire brushes (gun bore brushes seem to work good between the fins) but I want it good enuf to apply some hi-heat engine paint. It would be nice to hit the cylinder or "jug" but thats just to much work for my time and money. If I can get the head looking decent and w/the new plug and wire it should be OK. Today I stripped the cover (the entire cover from attachment end to gas tank) and darn if it didnt have a long white sticker or painted "gravely" underneath it on both sides. About 1 3/4 tall by probably 16 or 18" in length. Thanks for everything.
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