Here's how, I have a PDF of the owners manual you're welcome to, if wanted message me your email

Joe

 

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Have you checked the cap on the fuel tank to make sure the little vent hole is not obstructed

 

Yes, it is good to go.

 

To send him a message...just click on his avatar...look around and you will see "start a conversation"...just click on that and follow the prompts...easy, peasy

 

Well, it should continue running whether you are being nice to it or not. How is the engine acting before it stalls? Does it run poorly or normally before it stops? What does it sound like when you crank it to try and restart it?

One example of something that is often screwed up by a DIY'er is valve lash. I have no idea if that is adjustable on a PK, though. Usually if it is set too tight then as the engine heats up the valves are held slightly off the seat which causes gradual loss of compression until the engine wont run at idle and can get worse until it wont run at all. Then cranks a little faster than normal because compression is low, and then after it cools off runs fine until it warms up again.

Another thing is anything that interacts with a magnetic field like a magneto/ignition trigger. Magnets weaken when hot and the 'receiver' end gets less sensitive if the air gap grows. The magnet on a flywheel would have been selected to work under basically all conditions, but it it happened to crack its strength would be greatly lessened to begin with and getting it hot might cross into no-go zone, or its field might be being 'diffused' by metallic debris such as 'fuzzy' rust or perhaps rust that bridges the gap between the magnet and the rest of the flywheel. That basically 'shorts' the magnetic field and turns it from a strong field in a tight area to a weak lumpy field over a wider area.

Ignition coils (or really anything that has a winding of fine wire in it) can go open-circuit if a wire is cracked in the winding and 'heat growth' makes it grow a microscopic air gap which then closes again when it cools off. This is a common cause for cars to stall and not restart until cooled because of the winding in the crank position sensors which endure so much vibration.

The plugged gas tank vent is good one too. On a car that is usually very easy to test for (car tanks aren't 'just vented' anymore but thats a different topic) because they have electric pumps that will suck hard enough on the fuel in the tank that when no air is allowed in to replace the pumped fuel, pulling the fuel cap off results in a very obvious whoosh of air sucking into the tank as you break the seal. On a gravity-fed setup like what is probably on this tractor, a better test for a restricted vent would be to pull the fuel line off the carb, observe the 'flow rate' of gas dribbling out, and see if it increases noticeably as you unscrew the fuel cap. It shouldnt really change at all on this type of a setup, i think.

I dont know anything about a Power King (except i think i want one) but as a car mechanic those are some things that come to mind that would change with heat and time.

 

Thanks for the insight. I'll definitely take these things into account and see if they apply at all to my situation.

 

So I finally got around to working on the hydraulic issue and got the belt tightened up and snug - thanks for that info @joecdeere . There's still an issue it seems of the pulley actually spinning when the engine starts up, whether or not the belt was loose or tight. I can take a very long-shafted screwdriver (for safety's sake) and just barely push on the belt on the top of the pulley of the hydraulic pump and it gets it spinning, but it's like it needs that little nudge to get going and won't start on its own. I'm hoping it is maybe just needing some lubrication on the spindle the pulley is attached to or something similar and it is not the sign of something deeper with the hydraulic pump itself.

 

@redfoxjr are you saying that the belt is slipping...just not moving?...until you nudge it with the screwdriver?....or is the belt turning and not grabbing and turning the pulley on the pump?...If it is just not grabbing, the belt is either not tight enough, possibly not the correct belt...or could use a dose of belt dressing

 

You need to tighten the belt more they need to be pretty tight, there is no need to lube the pump it is lubed via the hyd oil as it works , to install a new hyd pump belt the engine to transmission has to be split and the engine moved forward enough to slip a new belt (1/2"X25") in place many guys go to a link belt that can be installed with out the split
https://www.amazon.com/Jason-Indust...ting/dp/B00A9ZNE7C/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Link+Belt&qid=1632328300&sr=8-5

 

It's been a while, but I finally got my hydraulics going! I can mow again....after struggling with getting the deck back on and that infernal belt.

You need to tighten the belt more they need to be pretty tight, there is no need to lube the pump it is lubed via the hyd oil as it works , to install a new hyd pump belt the engine to transmission has to be split and the engine moved forward enough to slip a new belt (1/2"X25") in place many guys go to a link belt that can be installed with out the split
https://www.amazon.com/Jason-Indust...ting/dp/B00A9ZNE7C/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Link+Belt&qid=1632328300&sr=8-5

Thanks @GB in MN for the recommendation on the link belt. It worked perfectly. Best part is I have enough length left for a replacement if that time ever comes.

The overheating I described as the other issue above seems to have worked itself out. Thanks again to everyone who offered advice and knowledge!

 

Thanks @GB in MN - I'll look at that as a possibility.

@MARK (LI) -
LOL - sorry - my description got a little convoluted didn't it?

The belt is not necessarily slipping, but it was loose, and I did tighten it up some after the instructs were graciously posted here by @joecdeere . Slightly loose or tighter, I still have to nudge it for the pulley itself to start turning. Once it is turning the pump works fine, etc. But it doesn't seem to want to spin up upon starting. I'll keep experimenting.

 

When tightening go for a 1/4" to 1/2" of belt deflection no more as I posted tight is needed

 

What you're describing is a VERY loose belt. Maybe you are judging by whatever the adjustment is when you say you tried it tight or loose, but even if the tension adjustment is maxed out, that is STILL a very loose belt.

One of the reasons V belts can be loose even if the tension adjusment is maxed out is because they don't technically ride on the 'bottom' of the pulleys, they ride on the sides. As the belt wears and material is gradually rubbed off, the belt will sink deeper and deeper into the pulley. If the belt got shorter in circumference at the same time that wouldn't be as big a problem, but since the belt becomes narrower and sinks deeper into the pulley while keeping the same length/circumference, it becomes loose. The fact that the tensioner can get maxed out and the belt still be loose, on ANYTHING, is a sign of the belt being worn out.

Its also possible for the pulley itself to deform or even wear in a way that makes even the correct belt looser than it is supposed to be. Thicker, smaller diameter pulleys usually don't do this much, but larger diameter pulleys that are just sheetmetal can 'bend' like this and make a belt looser than it should be and shorten belt life.

So you probably need a new belt, and if the pulleys are worn/deformed then you COULD say you need new pulleys.. or you could just put a slightly shorter belt in place and deal with the slightly lessened belt life. A 'link belt' like was already posted would let you experiment with the 'ideal' length and since they come in fairly long lengths you might even get two whole belts out of it if one wears out. If you don't get a tighter fit on there I guarantee that pump which is spinning when you 'help' it get started will just stop spinning once you actually have to make hydraulic pressure.

 

Always good to hear how a problem was resolved...thank you for taking the time to let us know!