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I've got 60 # of RimGuard in each tire [emoji3] in addition to the suitcase weights.


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Nice, are you using tubes and have you used the fan?
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
I do not have tubes but the dealer did install brass valve stems. With a little chrome for added bling.


I have used the fan and it does help keep the windshield clear. I only use it if I'm getting a lot of blow-back.


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Hey 396 big block

I didn't forget about you. Sorry this took so long. Here are two pictures of the inside of my switch panel. as I remember I had to grind the bottom terminal off of the switch, so that it would clear the positive terminal on the switchboard if that makes sense?The middle terminal is connected to the incoming wire that is the yellow wire of my beacon. The top two terminals which are piggybacked are the ground. Let me know if this confusing or helpful. Dave
View attachment 1114249 View attachment 1114257


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Switch panel arrived today Whelen PCC6W1 with momentary switch. Correct me if I'm wrong, the yellow wire connects to the pos+ and the red and black connect to the ground?
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #44 ·
396.
It took me awhile to remember why and how I did this. If this is not clear, pm me and I can call you and we can walk through this together. Since they shipped me the standard PCC6W panel without the momentary switch I had to wait for them to send me the correct switch and installed it myself through trial an error.

You will use two rocker switches for the beacon. The first will be one of the regular rockers to provide power to the beacon. Red to a positive terminal on back that corresponds to the rocker you want to power the beacon and black to the large grounding post. I selected the rocker that is next to the momentary switch to be the one to power the beacon. Be careful as these wire are very thin and cut very easily.
Now the momentary rocker switch. Yellow goes to the positive terminal on the back of the panel that corresponds to the momentary rocker circuit. I used a 2 amp fuse for the momentary. If you look at my picture 114257 the middle connection on the back of the rocker switch is connected to the out going connection that leads to the terminal that the yellow wire is connected to. The top two wires are piggy backed to the top terminal on the rocker and these connections are ground. The very bottom connection is incoming power. Your momentary rocker should not be connected to the bottom incoming power connection. Remember the momentary does not have power coming to it. I hope this helps.


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396.
It took me awhile to remember why and how I did this. If this is not clear, pm me and I can call you and we can walk through this together. Since they shipped me the standard PCC6W panel without the momentary switch I had to wait for them to send me the correct switch and installed it myself through trial an error.

You will use two rocker switches for the beacon. The first will be one of the regular rockers to provide power to the beacon. Red to a positive terminal on back that corresponds to the rocker you want to power the beacon and black to the large grounding post. I selected the rocker that is next to the momentary switch to be the one to power the beacon. Be careful as these wire are very thin and cut very easily.
Now the momentary rocker switch. Yellow goes to the positive terminal on the back of the panel that corresponds to the momentary rocker circuit. I used a 2 amp fuse for the momentary. If you look at my picture 114257 the middle connection on the back of the rocker switch is connected to the out going connection that leads to the terminal that the yellow wire is connected to. The top two wires are piggy backed to the top terminal on the rocker and these connections are ground. The very bottom connection is incoming power. Your momentary rocker should not be connected to the bottom incoming power connection. Remember the momentary does not have power coming to it. I hope this helps.


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I thank you for your patience, I apologize for ruining your thread I should have asked all my questions on my cab thread. I am sure one of the moderators can delete all my nonsense for you on this thread! One last question.. Where did you fish the wire loom/ power source?
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
396
You have enhanced this thread. Don't think otherwise. We all have an opportunity to learn from the discussions on this forum. Let's continue to help each other out.

I ran the power source inside some flexible split wire loom and zip tied it to the frame of the cab.


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excellent info here - helping immensely on the 1st time install of the OTC cab
 
I am beginning my OTC build today, as we are expecting snow this weekend for the first time. 396 has been a huge help, as well as this thread has so thank you! How is the HF heater working? I purchased one as well. I am worried about too much draw. I already have 4 LED lights on my brush guard, I have 4 small horizontal bars, a small LED light bar, and the HF heater yet to be installed on the cab. If need be, I will disconnect the lights on the brush guard for the winter.


I finally finished my headliner and installed my Harbor Freight defroster. I used a 3/4 piece of oak plywood I had lying around and sprayed it with Duplicolor bed liner. I can control the defroster from the switch panel and can switch between the fan and heater on the actual unit. View attachment 1073738


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Discussion starter · #51 ·
The HF heater works best as a window defroster. I only use it when necessary which is usually when the temperature is in the teens or less. I found that if I've got too many clothes on and sweat too much or breathe to heavy, that the defroster comes in handy. I don't really need it for heat.


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