About half of the new part of my lawn, EXPLODED with weeds this spring. TON"S of dandylions, and clover. Now I have wanted to stick with organic ways to tend the yard, but realy need to get these weeds under control. Any tips for a way to control them? What methods are the most soil frendly? Thanks!
Need help with weeds
Ingersoll444
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About half of the new part of my lawn, EXPLODED with weeds this spring. TON"S of dandylions, and clover. Now I have wanted to stick with organic ways to tend the yard, but realy need to get these weeds under control. Any tips for a way to control them? What methods are the most soil frendly? Thanks!
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Hate to say it Paul...but if you want to get rid of those weeds your going to have to pull out the big guns until your grass thickens enough to hold them off...a light spot spraying with a broadleaf killer shouldn't leave a lot of residual damage.
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Paul,
Some info I have found....
Common lawn sprays such as Weed B-Gone and 2,4-D are not very effective in controlling Clover.* A special Weed B-Gone for chickweed, clover and oxalis is more effective than 2,4-D or regular Weed B-Gone.
TARGETING BROADLEAF WEEDS
CULTURAL CONTROL
You can control dandelions, thistles, buckhorn and broadleaf plantain, chicory, white clover, spotted spurge, pennyworst, field sorrel, ground ivy (creeping charlie), creeping jenny and mouse-eared chickweed by digging. This is most effective in the spring (April or May) when weeds have their lowest food reserves stored in roots. In the fall, food reserves are at their peak and weeds are more likely to grow back after digging. You can reduce food reserves, however, and kill weeds by periodically digging them during the summer. Try to dig or cut the roots as deeply as possible (3-5 inches).
CHEMICAL CONTROL
Herbicides containing 2,4-D, MCPP, or Banvel (dicamba) will control most broadleaf weeds. MCPP is particularly effective on chickweed. Dicamba should only be used on difficult weeds, however, because it can leach through the soil and be absorbed by tree roots, harming or killing the tree. Most lawn and garden plants, especially tomatoes, are very susceptible to herbicides that kill broadleaf weeds. Therefore, apply these chemicals to lawns only when necessary, and do it before or after the gardening season. Most broadleaf herbicides are very volatile (become a gas) at summer temperatures commonly above 80 F and the vapor can drift, injuring nearby sensitive plants. Furthermore, these herbicides are more effective in controlling weeds, especially dandelions, in the fall. In the spring, herbicides tend to accumulate in the dandelion flower rather than in the roots. During fall (late September or early October), chemicals quickly move through the entire plant, and new weeds are less likely to fill in the open areas left by the dead weeds.
I have the same problems you do, so I'll probably be doing the same thing...
Greg
Some info I have found....
Common lawn sprays such as Weed B-Gone and 2,4-D are not very effective in controlling Clover.* A special Weed B-Gone for chickweed, clover and oxalis is more effective than 2,4-D or regular Weed B-Gone.
TARGETING BROADLEAF WEEDS
CULTURAL CONTROL
You can control dandelions, thistles, buckhorn and broadleaf plantain, chicory, white clover, spotted spurge, pennyworst, field sorrel, ground ivy (creeping charlie), creeping jenny and mouse-eared chickweed by digging. This is most effective in the spring (April or May) when weeds have their lowest food reserves stored in roots. In the fall, food reserves are at their peak and weeds are more likely to grow back after digging. You can reduce food reserves, however, and kill weeds by periodically digging them during the summer. Try to dig or cut the roots as deeply as possible (3-5 inches).
CHEMICAL CONTROL
Herbicides containing 2,4-D, MCPP, or Banvel (dicamba) will control most broadleaf weeds. MCPP is particularly effective on chickweed. Dicamba should only be used on difficult weeds, however, because it can leach through the soil and be absorbed by tree roots, harming or killing the tree. Most lawn and garden plants, especially tomatoes, are very susceptible to herbicides that kill broadleaf weeds. Therefore, apply these chemicals to lawns only when necessary, and do it before or after the gardening season. Most broadleaf herbicides are very volatile (become a gas) at summer temperatures commonly above 80 F and the vapor can drift, injuring nearby sensitive plants. Furthermore, these herbicides are more effective in controlling weeds, especially dandelions, in the fall. In the spring, herbicides tend to accumulate in the dandelion flower rather than in the roots. During fall (late September or early October), chemicals quickly move through the entire plant, and new weeds are less likely to fill in the open areas left by the dead weeds.
I have the same problems you do, so I'll probably be doing the same thing...
Greg
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paul not to sound all pro-chemical here.. but ive always done the corn meal instead of fertilzer and get zillions of dandelions.. i got theweed and fed this year.. and i have 1 dandelion.. thats it.. usually at this time id have about 300....
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Ya I think I am going to have to break down. At least till I get them under control. Any brand names to look for?
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Scotts products works well, actually very well...expensive also. Look for the 50 lb bag versions
Or Lesco products www.lesco.com for the nearest supply store
Or Lesco products www.lesco.com for the nearest supply store
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greg, that was some interesting reading. Thanks.
duc, I always used Scotts until two years ago when I had horrible results. In all fairness it was the year where everybody had less than stellar results, but I did switch to Lesco. Their step-2 in particular is very good. If we can ever get into a weather pattern that is stable, predictable and without rain
, I have a bunch to put down!
Cheers
JDFANATIC
JD2210
duc, I always used Scotts until two years ago when I had horrible results. In all fairness it was the year where everybody had less than stellar results, but I did switch to Lesco. Their step-2 in particular is very good. If we can ever get into a weather pattern that is stable, predictable and without rain
, I have a bunch to put down!Cheers
JDFANATIC
JD2210
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i got miracle gro's version of weed-n-feed at Walmart..
scotts was 36 or 38$ for a 40 lb bag.. and miracle gro's version was 22$ for a 40 lb bag.. same fertilizer #s..
also when i went to miracle grow on line and go to their weed n feed products it redirected me to a scotts page... not sure if scotts owns miracle grow.. but the fertilizer was about 13$ cheaper per bag...
scotts was 36 or 38$ for a 40 lb bag.. and miracle gro's version was 22$ for a 40 lb bag.. same fertilizer #s..
also when i went to miracle grow on line and go to their weed n feed products it redirected me to a scotts page... not sure if scotts owns miracle grow.. but the fertilizer was about 13$ cheaper per bag...
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simplejohn,
Pretty sure I just saw a flyer/advertisement from Scotts that had Miracle Grow and Ortho in their product line. It's the way of the world today; merge or be left behind. Maybe I'll give the Miracle Grow product a try next go-around.
Cheers
JDFANATIC
JD2210
Pretty sure I just saw a flyer/advertisement from Scotts that had Miracle Grow and Ortho in their product line. It's the way of the world today; merge or be left behind. Maybe I'll give the Miracle Grow product a try next go-around.
Cheers
JDFANATIC
JD2210
Tie a goat out there. They turn their noses up at gras but go berzerk over a weed and clover........MIne love dandelions..........and if you went and put up that fence around the back part they would have had that brush cleared out and the place all ship shape by now.......and you would have time to work on getting a tractor running to cut the grass that would be growing........ ROF ROF
I used to get some pretty heavy weed growth in my fields in early spring, but the goats have taken care of that now......and once the grass is growing good, and the weeds are either eaten or choked out, the goats have no other choice but to start eating grass if they want a full belly as do not feed any feeds to them during seasons when browse or grass grows...... I just extended my fence a bit further back in and around some heavy briars, vines etc, and they are history already as are saplings and everything else........and they are fertilizing while they are ridding you of the weeds etc..thats a good deal for me.....You'd be surprised what two goats would consume, and they are easy keepers come winter time.......and I bet that little girl of yours would love a pet goat...
You ever notice how a horse eats all the good grass and all thats left is weeds....well a goat is the opposite, anbd the fertilizer they leave behind does not stick to your shoes, or become huge mounds. Get a goat! Can't get any more natural or organic than that!
I used to get some pretty heavy weed growth in my fields in early spring, but the goats have taken care of that now......and once the grass is growing good, and the weeds are either eaten or choked out, the goats have no other choice but to start eating grass if they want a full belly as do not feed any feeds to them during seasons when browse or grass grows...... I just extended my fence a bit further back in and around some heavy briars, vines etc, and they are history already as are saplings and everything else........and they are fertilizing while they are ridding you of the weeds etc..thats a good deal for me.....You'd be surprised what two goats would consume, and they are easy keepers come winter time.......and I bet that little girl of yours would love a pet goat...
You ever notice how a horse eats all the good grass and all thats left is weeds....well a goat is the opposite, anbd the fertilizer they leave behind does not stick to your shoes, or become huge mounds. Get a goat! Can't get any more natural or organic than that!
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You know, we have thought about it many times before. We have a TON of poison ivy here, and have always heard goats LOVE the stuff.
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Well I picked up a few bags of weed, and feed. I dont remember the brand, but it was 10 cheeper then the Scotts, and was a little bigger bag to boot. I will see how that works.
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im still gonna use the CGM around the pond.. but boy.. that weed n-feed does work pretty well...
BTW: with no running tractors.. you sure you want to put fertilzer down??ROF
BTW: with no running tractors.. you sure you want to put fertilzer down??ROF
Simple John.........just becarefull with any week killers and some fertilizers arund a pond especially if it has fish in it. Seems 99% of anything that kills weeds, bugs or makes grass grow etc is deadly to aquatic inhabitants. Yet another good reason to have goats!
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thanks chip.. im using the Corm meal near the pond (if it ever stops raining)
ill keep the chemicals away from the water...
ill keep the chemicals away from the water...
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Well got my first bag down this morning. It was a bit windy, and not as dewy as I would have liked, so I stopped at the one bag. I hosed the grass first, and did the worst part of my yard. Looks like rain for this weekend, so unless that changes, I lost my window till probably next week to get the rest. Oh well, thats how it goes I guess.
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your lawn is gonna love the Weed-n-feed.. its been living on all that organic crap and will lover a shot of some real industrial style chemicals..ROF
j/k but i only did half of my back yard and you can really see the difference of what was done and what was not done..
j/k but i only did half of my back yard and you can really see the difference of what was done and what was not done..
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