On my 2005 LT2042:

Oil: Super Tech full synthetic from Walmart. Manual specs 10W-30 for my climate (no snowplowing/blowing/super cold operation for me). Have run 5W-30 in the past because it's what I had laying around for my vehicles.

Filter: Cross-referenced the Kohler filter to its automotive equivalent (thread pitch and gasket size). Usually run a Super Tech filter. Inexpensive, automobile-quality, and allows for some greater oil capacity in the engine since it's bigger than the OEM.

 

Most new car engines now have roller tappet lifters and zinc has been removed from oils so as not to plug up catalytic converters.

Our flat tappet engines benefit from zinc to keep the camshaft healthy. I run 5W-40 Rotella T-6 in my flat tappet engines since diesel engine oils still have zinc in them.

 

I use 30W oil (currently Pennzoil, have used Castrol in the past) due to the brutal summer heat around here. I use the premium Kohler filter (the yellow one), as it is a tad larger and supposedly offers a little better filtration than the standard filter. I change the oil and filter at the end of the mowing season so its ready to go for the next one.

 

the old lt1050 with a sv730 it depended on the season summer 10w40 winter 10w30, my new zt1-50 has a 23 hp kawasaki with uses 10w40 or 20w50 .gets only kawasaki oil as it has zinc in it,

it's simply best to use what your owners manual tells you to use

 

I have got some zinc and have used, does anyone else add it to their oil?

 

I think its a good idea.

 

Zinc is good, but IMO there is not a need for a lot of it in these engines in stock form. I have had old Pontiacs for decades and in the past (I currently use a Solid Roller) I have had lobes go "flat" on some of the flat tappet cams. I think lack of adequate zinc was probably a factor, probably a major factor.

The valve spring pressures on a typical Automotive Engine are MUCH higher than they are on these small engines. I remember the first time I worked on a B&S Vanguard Engine. I could push the valve spring open with ONE finger. Try that on an Automotive Engine.

Having said that, I think Zinc is a good thing to have and I also use Shell Rotella 5W-40 T6 Full Synthetic in all of my small engines(and transaxles) and in my Pontiac.

Zinc levels were reduced in most oils because it is hard on Cat Converters. High amount of zinc are NOT recommended in modern engines with Roller Cams and Cat Converters.

 

Kohler 10w-30 oil, Kohler oil filter & air filter.

 

I'm concerned about the heat and if the Penzoil 10w 30w oil will keep my 22 hp engine cool, here as the summer months goes on it gets hotter, and I have about a acre of grass to cut, will this oil keep the engine cool ?.....
And just got a Fram oil filter for this engine, instead of going to a Kohler oil filter, with this a wise thing to do ?.......never had this much grass to cut until we bought this place, thanks in advance...

 

My late grandfather, who was a mechanic, used to say "you could run a car with cooking oil if you change it often enough." The cooking oil bit is obviously a joke, but the overall point is not- regular maintenance is your friend. My point? You'll be fine. The fact that you're changing it on a regular schedule means you're head and shoulders above the average lawn/garden tractor operator. I wouldn't lose a minute of sleep if I knew my Cub was running fresh Pennzoil with a new Fram filter.

 

I virtually never use conventional oil these days. I don't think synthetic cools the engine any(or at least not significantly) better, but synthetic WILL handle the heat better.

For the slight additional cost, especially in a small engine, I can't imagine a good reason not to use synthetic.

 

Good to hear, I was going to get the oil next week for it, but hadn't decided what to buy, but think I will go with a synthetic oil for it...thanks ..

 

I agree with the synthetic preference. For the cost of 1-2 quarts of oil, maybe yearly, synthetic seems like cheap insurance to me. Air-cooled engines do run hotter than water-cooled engines, so the oil will see a fair amount of heat. Synthetic should withstand that better, as I understand it.

Some people use diesel-rated oil, in the appropriate weight, in their engines. I believe the diesel oils have higher zinc levels, since they don't need to worry about catalytic converters. The Shell Rotella T6 that JoelK mentioned is a diesel oil.

But changing the oil and filter regularly will probably provide a lot of benefit by itself.

It's more hassle, unfortunately. But if you want to help maintain the other expensive, oil-reliant part of your tractor, you could also look into changing the transmission oil. Changing that after maybe 150-200 hours would help the transmission's longevity.

 

Have a question about my Cub Cadet, it is still under warranty, even tho I have been using Pennzoil oil in it but using the Kolher oil filter on it.......should I keep using that filter, or use another brand ?......I'm due my 100 hour oil change, have the 5w 30w Synthetic oil for it, this stuff is 9 bucks a quart here...

 

The Kohler filter is fine. Other brands would be fine as well as long as it fits. As others have said, keep the oil and filter changed regularly (after every mowing season or every 100 hours if you put that many hours on it during a season). Regular maintenance is more important than "brand" in most cases.

 

Have a question, about my Cub Cadet, I been hearing a noise as u throttle the idle up u no, like to think its just a pulley making this noise, but as u get off the mower and walk around to the front u can hear it louder,, how can u check to see if the noise is coming from the engine, or can u ?..........cant hear it as ur mowing, but can after u get off the mower....I changed the oil and went to a Synthetic 5w 30w and a Fram oil filter....it has like a 105 hours on it, wouldn't think it be n the engine.........noticed as well, the dang belts already has slack in them too, just put new belts on it this past winter,,...

 

most likely the muffler, they vibrate apart internally. take it off and shake it.