[DmaxGravely]

Great Job and thanks for the pix :trink40: .

 

[Bushbuck]

Got the frame for the cab together after painting. Installed the canvas and now I just have to finish the blower. I am just waiting for 1 more seal for the gearbox Then it should go pretty quick.

 

[BlownL67]

Shes a dream Marc!

 

[Plym49]

Yes, I agree with Typierce, store in fridge or other cool, dry place.It will definitely last longer,(but, with all your restorations it may not need to). In addition, you can and should if possible transfer the stuff to an airtight container of another sort, it works a lot better than the can it comes in.
I disagree with the point about sandblasting the metal, the company promotes and stands by the premise that their product is for painting over rust, hence the name they gave it and what it stands for.

Never open a can off POR. Moisture in the air starts it curing, and the stuff is too expensive to waste.

Instead, punch a hole in the top of the can. Pour out as much as you need at a time. Seal the punch hole with a piece of masking tape. Done this way, I have 'opened' cans of POR that have been on the shelf for years and they are still good. The reason is that I never give moist air a chance to get inside the can.

 

[Hindenburg]

Very good idea, never thought of that. Thanks for the tip

 

[jrd]

I'm sure y'all will be pleased to know that the 210 did great in its first real outing with the white stuff. We've got about 5-6 inches, somewhat sticky and packable, in central mass this morning.

The 210 did a great job. It throws the stuff 2x further than the 115, and works just as well in both directions, which the 115 doesn't.

The L8 definitely started working hard when I was chewing through windrows left by passing plows and like that, but in high-speed/low-axle it did great on everything else. I'm sure a higher powered kohler unit would work even better, but this should be just fine.

Yes, I'll get my wife to take some pix of the the machine in action

 

[Bushbuck]

Its nice to be able to enjoy all your hard work jrd. We have about 7+ so far back home today. When I get home from work tonight I will get to play with my new blower also.

 

[jrd]

This thing is even more impressive than I thought.

After I left for work it snowed another 3-4 inches, then turned to rain. The plows came around and left great lumps of compacted slush for me. I got home and got the beast back out, figuring I'd do what I could, but it threw the slush at least as well as the dry snow this morning! It had to work though; I needed to back off the drive for the big lumps to give it a chance to get back up to rpm. After a while I tried it in low speed, figuring maybe it would still move it well enough. To my surprise, it threw in low speed just about as well as in high, and did a better job of plowing through the wet icky stuff. The 115 would never do that.

I'm sure it helps that it's cleaned up and painted and waxed. Even taking all that into account, I was surprised. Probably shouldn't be, it's a gravely

 

[BlownL67]

Good news man! Glad everything worked out! I do think you need to step it up a little bit and get a C10 or C12.

 

[jrd]

I do think you need to step it up a little bit and get a C10 or C12.

Oh, geez, here we go

That's ok, I'll stick to the Ls, leave the kohlers for you.

Thanks again...

 

[Fla Don]

I may end up contacting the maker of the one for the Rapid XZ for a 64" for the 35-G. And tell them I want it to run direct to the blower shaft.

 

[Bushbuck]

I may end up contacting the maker of the one for the Rapid XZ for a 64" for the 35-G. And tell them I want it to run direct to the blower shaft.

the only downfall is the bigger you get the less time you actually get to play.

 

[Fla Don]

the only downfall is the bigger you get the less time you actually get to play.

But then you just go and play in the neighborhood.

 

[alteredz]

Was going to look for replacements for the flange bearings, but after soaking them in wd40 and working them, finally decided that they're usable as is. I'll do the best I can to shove grease in the crack around the flange, and leave it at that. I plan to drill them for setscrews, so at least the auger shaft is not just banging around the inside of the bearing.

Awesome thread! I picked up a MA210 and pulled it apart somewhat to do some maintenance and check the condition of things. I found that the bearings on the end of the auger shaft are frozen and dry. I'll try to recondition them like jrd did, but I'm wondering if anyone has attempted to find the bearings at a bearing house, etc. (i.e., not for a lot of money).

I need to make a chute control rod and bracket for it for the handle bar. Can someone tell me how much offset the handle needs from the rod at the bracket attachment? Looks like 6 or 7" of "half-stroke" from the handle to the part that just turns in the bracket.

Thanks for any help, Pete

 

[devans]

The bearing is still made though I don't know how much they run. Go to Timkens website and down load their catalog and install it.
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Pages/Catalogs.aspx
You're looking for Timken ball housed units. You can view it online too. Go to page A-108. That's the FLCT series used on the snow blowers.

As for the handle, I'm not sure what you mean by 6 or 7" of half stroke.

 

[alteredz]

As for the handle, I'm not sure what you mean by 6 or 7" of half stroke.

Kind of like what you would measure as the "half stroke" from a crankshaft - center of the main journal to center of the rod journal.

Thanks for the info on the Timken site. I'll measure the bearing ID, etc of the old one and report back with what the part number is in that catalog that matches (even closely) and any pricing I find.

 

[Yokomo99]

I made up a handle for my MA210 and I used a 5" offset for the crank handle and I used a hydraulic tubing support to hold up the crank end of the blower chute control handle.

[URL=http://s220.photobucket.com/user/Revolution909/media/134_zpsfc63eda0.jpg.html][/URL]

Here it is mounted on the 5660. I also made up one to fit the 73 C8. On the C8 it mounts so the crank handle is on top of the handlebar. The good thing about these tubing mounts is that they don't slip or mark the handlebar paint.

[URL=http://s220.photobucket.com/user/Revolution909/media/016_zpsce58353e.jpg.html][/URL]

 

[devans]

I'll post some pictures I took for someone of the measurements on my crank handle a bit later when I get to work.

 

[devans]

Here are the pictures. My handle is different and I've never seen another like it leading me to believe it's home made by a previous owner. It has a swivel joint built into it, looks kind of hokey but it works.
As for the total length, yours will probably be different depending on the rout you take.

 

[alteredz]

Don, Yokomo99, thank you so much for responding. I see now that my handle should have about a 6" half-stroke, from what you 2 show/say.

I found that the bearing from Timken is known as "FLTC 3/4" I found prices online from about $30 to $70 each.

Looking around for bearings for a 3/4" shaft that would seem to fit the application, I found these RBI bearings: http://www.astbearings.com/product-...duct-compare.html?ids=HCFJT204-12|OBF204-12S|SUCTFL204-12|UCFL204-12|UCFT204-12

I decided to get the UCFT204-12, but a WJB brand, which has the same static load rating as the Timken FLCT 3/4" bearing, but is a cast iron case, has a set screw collar and grease fitting that the Timken FLCT part does not. Here's ebay auction:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131310798118?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Here's a page with the WBJ specs for these bearings. From what I can see size wise, including flange height (z), these will fit. http://www.wjbusa.com/products/image4/UCFT200.pdf