I must say that after the recent rebuilt on the little 12.5 HP Wisconsin that is has a really loud bark to it. If I were going to make it and everyday user I will have to put a different muffler on it.
Deerlope
why cant you rebore the jugs on those s10d, s12d and s14d`s to fit a standard piston and ring set? i should be ablr to rebore my s10d out to an s14d using that jug- everything else is just about the same
A long time ago an old mechanic/tinkerer that I knew demonstrated something that really stuck in my mind. Take a long length of gutter down spout or exhaust pipe and simply place it over the stock muffler opening on a lawn mower, it makes it nearly silent.
Length alone has a lot to do with the noise reduction, without adding back pressure.
What I've done on some older machines is simply use the stock tube style threaded muffler and then add a custom bent length of exhaust tube over top of it to direct the exhaust further away or under the machine. The pipe alone will quiet the exhaust, then if you can add a small automotive muffler or glass pack, it can make it nearly silent and the larger diameter of the car exhaust adds almost no back pressure to a small engine.
One of my favorite tricks is to take a stock threaded tube muffler, then bend up an elbow and make the stack out of a glass pack for a smaller car. The length of the pipe is important to get the right note and to reduce noise. I usually have to experiment. On smaller motors I take the exhaust tube off an old VW bus, it's a 90 degree glass pack tube which I attach to a stock muffler with an extension to get the exhaust over my head. Often a simple slash cut 90 degree end will also reduce noise vs. a hinged exhaust cover.
The exhaust has to do four things, first off it needs to be functional for that particular engine, second it must reduce the loudness, third it needs to direct the exhaust away from both the driver and the engine air intake, and fourth, it should be tuned properly to achieve an non offensive note. Its not always how loud something is as much as what note the exhaust puts out. A mellow rumble is far easier to listen to than a raspy or ear piercing bark. Most of us don't want our machines to sound like a dirt bike or a kids go cart either.
On my Simplicity and Allis Chalmers machines a pepper box and about a foot of pipe gives it the sound of an old John Deere twin, sort of a popping note as it pulls the plow. That same muffler on a vertical shaft Briggs or some Wisconsin motors sounds almost as bad as open exhaust.
On my New Holland with an old vertical shaft Briggs motor, I ran a 1.5" pipe and a car muffler under the machine, its nearly silent but I no longer use that to cut grass, it's only job is to move my boat into the back yard, and I can do it without waking up the whole block at 1AM if I need to.
Length alone has a lot to do with the noise reduction, without adding back pressure.
What I've done on some older machines is simply use the stock tube style threaded muffler and then add a custom bent length of exhaust tube over top of it to direct the exhaust further away or under the machine. The pipe alone will quiet the exhaust, then if you can add a small automotive muffler or glass pack, it can make it nearly silent and the larger diameter of the car exhaust adds almost no back pressure to a small engine.
One of my favorite tricks is to take a stock threaded tube muffler, then bend up an elbow and make the stack out of a glass pack for a smaller car. The length of the pipe is important to get the right note and to reduce noise. I usually have to experiment. On smaller motors I take the exhaust tube off an old VW bus, it's a 90 degree glass pack tube which I attach to a stock muffler with an extension to get the exhaust over my head. Often a simple slash cut 90 degree end will also reduce noise vs. a hinged exhaust cover.
The exhaust has to do four things, first off it needs to be functional for that particular engine, second it must reduce the loudness, third it needs to direct the exhaust away from both the driver and the engine air intake, and fourth, it should be tuned properly to achieve an non offensive note. Its not always how loud something is as much as what note the exhaust puts out. A mellow rumble is far easier to listen to than a raspy or ear piercing bark. Most of us don't want our machines to sound like a dirt bike or a kids go cart either.
On my Simplicity and Allis Chalmers machines a pepper box and about a foot of pipe gives it the sound of an old John Deere twin, sort of a popping note as it pulls the plow. That same muffler on a vertical shaft Briggs or some Wisconsin motors sounds almost as bad as open exhaust.
On my New Holland with an old vertical shaft Briggs motor, I ran a 1.5" pipe and a car muffler under the machine, its nearly silent but I no longer use that to cut grass, it's only job is to move my boat into the back yard, and I can do it without waking up the whole block at 1AM if I need to.
I heard a muffler today that I could not believe. My good friend has a Sears ST16 with a tech 16HP just like the one I have in one of my tube frames. This muffler is about the size of of big can of beans and exhausts out the side with a bunch of holes. It even has a drain plug. This motor is mounted sideways in his tractor. It is the most quiet muffler I have ever heard on an old cast iron tech. I guess it came with the Sears tractor back in 1974. I'll try to get a picture of it.
I wonder if a muffler from one of the larger farm tractors would work...like a Farmall A or B, or maybe a Ford 8N?
Personally on these old machines I like the bark. If you wear hearing protection it don't matter anyway.
To quiet my 1250 down I used a car muffler under the machine for a while but when I added the tiller it had to go, I've got a muffler from a small diesel CUT tractor that I'm most likely going to retro fit to the left side. An exhaust stack looks nice but it puts the sound right in your face at ear level. Even my 1455 is tolerable with the pepper pot muffler which is pointed down and forward at the ground. Its loud but at least it's pointed away from me. It will most likely get a car muffler or something custom in the future though.
Thanks NYrobbie, the 1250 is going to stay orignal and I would certainly appricate seeing those pic's. As I will more than likely do the 1455.
we added the double valve and front/rear ports to my 1250. makes using the power angle dirt blade a snap. gotta replace my leaking quick connects tho, basic 1/4" snow plow parts are said to be a direct replacement.
i believe the rear hydro lines are stock and we had custom ones made for the front due to the shorter frame rails. i can give some pics if u need them.
i believe the rear hydro lines are stock and we had custom ones made for the front due to the shorter frame rails. i can give some pics if u need them.
Thanks for the complainment everyone but I were to pick a daily user it would be the 1455. Think I need to bring the 1455 in the shop and put a double or triple hyd valve in it and add front and rear remotes.
One company I know of is Egge Machine http://www.egge.com/.
They make pistons, etc for many antique cars.
Bob Meeker
They make pistons, etc for many antique cars.
Bob Meeker
That is a great picture. I tend to like the bark myself. I wear hearing protection but that bark is just to let the neighbors know that it's bite is just as bad!!
A serious question; There are companies around( I've heard of one in California) that make pistons for antique cars. They don't stock every single piston for every engine model. Instead, they have basic slugs that they then machine the piston head on a CNC machine. Do you suppose they would be cheaper than the stock Wisconsin/Kohler part? It's something you might try checking out. JAT
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