Probably could just splice into the wire running to your headlights. Since they're just LEDs they don't draw enough to compromise your charging system. I'm assuming these LEDs have flashers built into them.

Splice the wire running to your headlights and run a wire back to your new tail lights. Find yourself a good ground location and they should work just fine when you turn on your head lights.

 

I agree with Hivolt, just be sure to splice into the wire after the switch, and check your fuses if you have any and if they blow after installing the tail lights you may need to add a new circuit with another switch and fuse for the tail lights. But that is just in case.

 

i agree when u splice them in and want it to last solder them in and heat shrink the wire u could just crimp them in but this is not as reliable and has a higher resistace also make sure u get the wire mounted down to prevent any rubbing from the constant vibration u could even go as far as puttin it in a wire loom

 

Here's a link to the manual-
http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0020119.pdf

Page 31/60 has the schematic.

As you can see, you have the AC lighting circuit.
It's a "nominal" 5 AMPs, or 60-70 WATTS.
Chances are your headlight bulbs pretty much use ALL of that..A problem with LED's is they are a light emitting DIODE.
A diode acts like a check valve, allowing current to only pass in one direction. Therefore, they would only get 1/2 the power that they are deigned for.
I don't know HOW MUCH that would affect the output??

To hook them up, you would tap into the BROWN wire from the L terminal of the ignition switch.

 

As long as the LEDs have their own path to ground they should be getting all the power they need.
You can't wire these in series, they'll be so dim you won't know they're there.

 

How many WATTS are they?

Your DC charge circuit is 3Amps. You could probably "steal an Amp (12 Watts) from that circuit. I'd use a switch if I went that way, so you couyld turn them off when not in use in order to get full battery charging.
IF you went that way, you'd run a wire from the key switch A1 terminal, to a s to the LE's to ground.
An advantage of that method is that with the KEY switch OFF, they couldn't run the battery down, even if you left the LED switch ON.

BTW, the little "blinky" tail lights used on bicycles last about 200 hours on a pair of AAA batteries.The whole light assembly costs around $7-9.

 

How many WATTS are they?

Your DC charge circuit is 3Amps. You could probably "steal an Amp (12 Watts) from that circuit. I'd use a switch if I went that way, so you could turn them off when not in use in order to get full battery charging.
IF you went that way, you'd run a wire from the key switch A1 terminal, to a switch to the LED's to ground.
An advantage of that method is that with the KEY switch OFF, they couldn't run the battery down, even if you left the LED switch ON.

BTW, the little "blinky" tail lights used on bicycles last about 200 hours on a pair of AAA batteries.The whole light assembly costs around $7-9.

Edited to correct spelling and possibly make sense

 

The current through an LED depends on its series resistance. Usually the RED LEDs run about 0.01 to 0.025 Amps. The higher the current the shorter their life. So you can estimate the current used by counting the number of LEDs in the tail light and multiplying by 0.020 Amps. It's pretty unlikely that they will pop an existing fuse unless your new wiring has a short. So as an example, if there were 10 LEDs per taillight the total power consumed for both tail lights might be 5 or 6 watts, pretty small.

 

What Bill is trying to say is that LEDs are DC (direct current) devices and the lighting circuit is AC (alternating current), so the LEDs will only work on half of the AC sine wave and less than half of that half will be at full voltage potential.

 

That's a really good schematic Bill.

Simply put kkri, it looks like your not gonna be able to put your LEDs on your head light circuit. You'll have to make a new circuit off of pin A1 on the ignition switch and putting another switch in. If you don't put a switch in the tail lights will come on as soon as you start your tractor.

Your light circuit isn't rectified so LEDs will not work. Your charging circuit is good to 3 amps. Now I don't know how many LEDs are in these tail lights, but I'll give you this example, a twenty five foot string of LED christmas lights draws 2 watts, and a 12 volts that would mean that whole string of lights would draw .167 Amps. I don't think you'll be havin much of a problem with these two little tail lights.:goodl:

 

I wouldn't say they won't work on AC, but I think the constant switching between +/- would probably shorten their life to at least some extent. Maybe rapidly, if they don't have a high enough reverse voltage rating.

Since the OP doesn't seem to want to respond anyway, I'm going to consider it a dead issue!

 

Maybe we scared him?:Stop:

 

Just to close things out on this thread. LEDs will not be damaged by AC unless the reverse voltage exceeds their spec. A good example of this are the LED xmas lights. They run on AC, no rectifier in the circuit, just a series resister to keep the current within spec. All the LEDs are in series (or half the string). They are actually blinking at 60 cps (here in the USA) but you don't see it.

 

you haven't scared me. I appreciate all your input, but am not knowledgeable enough to contribute to the conversation. I will try your suggestions and let you know how it works out.

kkri

 

you haven't scared me. I appreciate all your input, but am not knowledgeable enough to contribute to the conversation. I will try your suggestions and let you know how it works out.

kkri

Just kiddin kkri, :goodl: