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JD300 struggling to go forward in cold

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2.4K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  wally2q  
#1 ·
I’ve got a ‘76 JD300 with hydrostatic drive I picked up last year to power a model 49 snow thrower and a four-way plow. Throughout the warmer months the tractor worked great. But now that the cold has set in here in New England, I’ve noticed that while the tractor will go into reverse every time with no problem, when I try to go forward, the selector knob is stiff and at times doesn’t want to budge.

The temp was about 32 the other night and at first I was able to drive around and plow with the four-way blade with no problem, but the longer I drove the worse the tractor would get. I would push the knob into forward position, and either go nowhere or creep only a tiny tiny bit. Other times fiddling with the angle or height of the blade while pushing the drive knob forward would nudge the tractor forward slightly. Still, reverse always worked great. Sometimes if I would reverse and then switch to forward really quickly I could get it to jump forward. Other times I had to push the knob forward dozens of times before it would jump forward and full speed. This makes it hard to run the plow or blower in a tight spot, like near a car without trading a little paint.

The temp was back up to 55 yesterday and I had no problem getting the tractor to go forward normally.

My trans fluid seems to be level. Anyone have any experience with this sort of problem? Could the hydrostatic dampener/shock absorber have issues in the cold? We’re looking at a foot+ of snow the middle of this week, and I’d like to get this running better before then!

Thanks for any ideas you have!
 
#3 ·
the oil warms up with operation so I don't think viscosity will play such a huge role here... form moving normally to not-moving at all.

plus the OP said: "...I’ve noticed that while the tractor will go into reverse every time with no problem, when I try to go forward, the selector knob is stiff and at times doesn’t want to budge...."

It sounds like loose linkages. Maybe a setscrew or sheared key?... things get cold, shafts contract creating a bit more gap between a shaft and an actuator arm/cam, reductiong friction on a broken key-way decreases etc... and your movement control lever is not actuating the go/no-go actuator on the transmission.
 
#6 ·
The only time I have felt that resistance on the hydro control was when the transmission was low on fluid. I still wouldn't rule out viscosity because you said temperature has something to do with it acting normal or not. That would indicate something with the fluid, but I agree with Wally2q that checking your linkages isn't a bad idea either!
 
#11 ·
I appreciate all the answers on here.

So I went in and pulled the dampener off because I felt like I was fighting against something like a shock absorber or spring or something. The dampener seems to be fine, but I've never pulled a small one like this off a machine before, so I have no frame of reference. Maybe shouldn't be able to move it at all? It compresses and decompresses without an excessive amount of force.

What I realized when I had it apart, was that the resistance I feel when pushing the selector into the forward position comes from a big spring in there. The tendency (I'm assuming by design?) is for the spring to pull the selector back to the Neutral position. But maybe that's what the dampener is designed to counteract, and when both are working properly the selector moves up and down the speed range with little effort?

I also checked the fluid level again and it seemed a bit low, and added some (which is a pain in the neck, I've got more in my catch pan than I got in the tractor). The best I could tell the various linkages seem pretty tight, but again, maybe inexperience doesn't tell me enough how they are supposed to feel). At any rate, it's still cold, I still can't get it to go reliably into forward on the first try, but reverse is still reliable.

One thing I did notice once it's back together, is that when I do get it to go, I can adjust my speed faster or slower as needed -- even though it jumps off to a fast start when it goes with a spin of the chained tires. But I also noticed that when I get it back to the Neutral position, it still tries to go forward. and I've got to nudge it into reverse to actually stop.
 
#9 ·
Colder temperatures will highlight issues that don't even show up at warmer temperatures due to shrinking of the steel parts. The damper would be a good starting point, followed by inspecting the rest of the linkages for tolerances that have changed due to wear.

As long as you are inspecting, check the parking brake. It can cause similar issues.

The ATF works fine at sub zero temperatures. Like any other hydraulic fluid, it's just a bit sluggish until it warms up a bit.
 
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#14 ·
So you be been playing with the dampener and I’ve found that something is stopping the dampener from going into the decompressed state when I try to go into drive. With a pry bar I can exert some force to get the dampener to open up and the drive function works flawlessly, changing to multiple speed positions, until it gets back to the neutral position. Then it’s the same thing over again. But with the dampener off, there doesn’t seem to be any trouble decompressing by hand. Can’t figure out what’s preventing it when it’s on the tractor. I had a video, but I can’t seem to kid it. Here are two photos. One of it compressed and one decompressed.

You’re right in the money! Got under there and moved the lever while prying a bit with a key bar and heard something clicking behind me. Not sure what this is called. But it comes out of a little dip and overcomes the tension in a spring to go into reverse easily. But not forward.
 
#17 ·
Well, problem is solved. There’s a little spacer on that 1/2 inch bolt that rolls into the indentation. It was squared off in several places so it looked like an octagon. I flipped it around for now until I can get a new spacer in there. The previous owner must have flipped it around himself, because the other end was slightly squared in just one spot. And there’s a thin bit of metal in the middle that’s fully round all the way around.
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions!!