[nate81]

well....i'm not sure if its the ending of a long day or the mind numbingness of reading this post http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=304226&highlight=320

But I'm starting to feel a bit overwhelmed...There is obviously LOTS more to this than I ever imagined and I'm beginning to feel that taking it any further would be a mistake on my part. I have barely ANY small engine experience, pretty much all that I know/have learned is from reading online forums. I'm feeling like its time to let the big guys take care of it at the dealership.

After watching the guy dismantle the 320 I realized how much was inside, parts that don't even make sense to me like the ignition module...you explained it very well, but it just doesn't register for me.

Having said that...if i wake up tomorrow and still feel the same, is there anything that you might suggest I have them do or replace while they have it there? In that forum i linked to, he mentioned (and showed a photo) of a hydro filter that had never been changed and stated so with shock....maybe thats something I should have them do.

My maintenance basically consists of oil/filter change...air filter...fuel filter....I try to keep it clean, normally a leaf blower after cuttings is about the jist of it. This mower was my Fathers who passed away a few years ago, and it kind of means a lot to me to keep it up and running. Any and all suggestions to help me do that are appreciated.

 

[Josey Wales]

I like the sound of a rebuild kit. Sounds cheaper than getting a whole new fuel pump. Any idea where I can get one? Is this something my JD dealer would have? I have the Kawasaki FD590V-AS00

I'm sure your JD dealer has it or most any well stocked small engine shoppe. I picked mine up at a local shop that sells and services outdoor power equipment. Good luck and be sure to post your fix.

 

[Larry LGT 165]

Nate, I can appreciate it is overwhelming. The funny thing about the forum is you either get no answer or you get everybody trying to help. Basically everybody is saying the same things, just in different words. Our concern is dealer diagnostic time charges will be high as it takes some time for the problem to show itself and then it disappears, only to need retesting again.

I would suggest you do the squirt test and then you can atleast tell the dealer if it is a fuel or spark problem. That cuts all our info and the diagnostic time in half. Whether you pursue it or let the dealer, you will have the satisfaction of knowing it did not beat you and that is the more important issue at hand.

Tomorrow will be a clearer day, take a break tonight.

 

[man4mopar]

Nate, I can appreciate it is overwhelming. The funny thing about the forum is you either get no answer or you get everybody trying to help. Basically everybody is saying the same things, just in different words. Our concern is dealer diagnostic time charges will be high as it takes some time for the problem to show itself and then it disappears, only to need retesting again.

I would suggest you do the squirt test and then you can atleast tell the dealer if it is a fuel or spark problem. That cuts all our info and the diagnostic time in half. Whether you pursue it or let the dealer, you will have the satisfaction of knowing it did not beat you and that is the more important issue at hand.

Tomorrow will be a clearer day, take a break tonight.

Well said.

 

[Dave Shaver]

You will find that JD and Kawasaki have pretty much sewed up the availability of parts for these engines. Tough to get much for them other than at the dealer or online JD suppliers.

Josey Wales, is that your Baron in your avatar?

 

[nate81]

Got my squirt oil can today...just started the mower...backed it out of the garage....and boom...it stalled! It didnt have to heat up this time...just stalled, wouldnt start back up. I took off the air filter and squirt some gas in...and it started...but died....i had my wife sit on it and start it again (after a few squirts) and before it would die...i'd give it a another shot and itd stay running.

Does this mean my fuel pump is bad?


edit: i disconnected the gas line coming from the pump to the carb and turned the key...it still is shooting gas out.

 

[Harryc]

Check for proper operation of the fuel cutoff solenoid on the bottom of the carb.

 

[Larry LGT 165]

Got my squirt oil can today...just started the mower...backed it out of the garage....and boom...it stalled! It didnt have to heat up this time...just stalled, wouldnt start back up. I took off the air filter and squirt some gas in...and it started...but died....i had my wife sit on it and start it again (after a few squirts) and before it would die...i'd give it a another shot and itd stay running.

Does this mean my fuel pump is bad?


edit: i disconnected the gas line coming from the pump to the carb and turned the key...it still is shooting gas out.

Chalk one up for the squirt can trick.:fing32::fing32: You know it is lack of fuel. Now I will have to leave it up to the guys who are familiar with that particular model.:dunno:

 

[nate81]

Check for proper operation of the fuel cutoff solenoid on the bottom of the carb.

The only thing on the bottom of my carb is a screw holding the bowl to the carb

 

[Harryc]

Then you have a stuck or sticking or worn float or needle in the carb.

 

[nate81]

I pulled the carb...and cleaned it. I took the float off and looked at the needle..looked good to me...but its the first time i've ever seen one in my life lol

I cleaned it inside and out, cleaned all the little holes and stuff...BUT...i kind of cheated...i did NOT take off the fuel screw or the air screw.....but...when i put it all back together it started right up....i ran it for a solid 45 minute session and then a previous 15 minutes

no issues. idle is kinda sloppy at times but i think i had read this was a common problem with this model.

Do you think i've fixed my problem with my 'partial' carb cleaning? or do you think it will reoccur?

 

[Larry LGT 165]

Nate, Pleased as"h-e double hockey sticks" you didn't let the little buggar get the best of you.:fing32: It doesn't frustrate just the newbies to the trade. I've been in the trade 50 yrs and just today solved a silly problem of my own, and I too blamed heat. The electric PTO on my Ford would not reengage if disengaged hot . Heat I thought. Not so, turned out my voltage was dropping too low for the pto coil to engage. Engine would start and restart ok, but no pto function. Should have a volt gauge on the dash. One second on the battery charger and away she goes. Never too old to learn a new trick.:fing20:

 

[nate81]

It was definitely from the help of you all! Its very much appreciated!

 

[Larry LGT 165]

It was definitely from the help of you all! Its very much appreciated!

No problem, that is what makes MTF so much fun.:howdy:


Now, feel free to take the rest of the evening off.:bananapow:bananapow

 

[man4mopar]

Do you think i've fixed my problem with my 'partial' carb cleaning? or do you think it will reoccur?

First glad you got it working. Have to be happy you did it yourself and saved some cash and trailer time.

Carbs getting varnish will reoccur just the nature of the beast. Regular use and using fuel stabilizer when not in use helps but even then it has been known to build up over time.
You may have gotten a bit better idle if the idle mixture screw was removed and thoroughly cleaned but maybe not. My experience is main and secondary ports will clean themselves out with use. Idle ports can clean out with use, just never do in my experience. Very small ports mean debris has to break down further to pass. A lot depends how solid the varnish has become or other debris that made it's way past filter. That all said if it idles and runs good on the run position I think you are good to go.