took the front panel off , traced noise ( buzz) to the two large relays , one was making a lot of noise, seems like one controls starter , one to the fuel pump - not sure but... I replaced them and same issue So I went to the ignition switch , took it out and looked it over . I ohmed it out to see if I got continuity in the various key positions . I found that at off - no continuity - good at glow plug position - continuity at two pins, turn to start and hold it there - no continuity at any pins, does not seem right but may be . Can any one shed some light on this - snowing and I need my tractor!! Here is a link to my no start situation, ( sorry for the sideways view)

the buzz you hear is the relay I replaced. I showed this to the Deere dealer and they just shook their heads and said bring it in... that scares me, the haul to the place is $$$ PLEASE HELP!

 

Mine started doing this and my display blank. I turn light switch on and off panel illuminates and I can start the tractor. JD 1038E.

 

Bump. Hoping one of our Deere mechanics will see this and respond.

 

Please !!!

 

take the fan cover off and look at the starter gear an see if its stuck in the flywheel

john

 

Sounds like you need a new ignition switch. The power (“B”, Batt.) connection post in the start position should show a dead short (0 ohms, or @ least less than 2 ohms). Don’t know too much of the newer models, but would expect one of the relays your looking at is indeed the starter relay and would expect the second one to be the fuel valve relay. Which would cause me to expect 2 connections to be enabled to the (“B”) in the start position of the switch. If the dealer gets ahold of your tractor, be prepared to take a sizable amount of money to get it back home. Experience is such a great (at least one you won’t forget) teacher.

 

thanks , I have ordered a switch, Ill post back when I install Ill look at starter but it is not "trying at all" no noise , no buzz , nothing , just seems like nothing is getting past those relays . I read about the dash pod itself could be an issue , but it has been replaced once under warranty ( it clouded over ) keep the thoughts coming !

 

To test your starter quickly, just use a jumper cable connected to the positive post on your battery, and stab the starter power post. Just be sure the tractor is in neutral, don’t want it to start and run yourself over. If the engine turns over, yank the cable off the starter, the starter is good. If the starter will not turn the engine over, you likely have a starter problem along w/the sw. problem.

 

OK will do , part due to come in today , keeping fingers and toes crossed !

 

Im not sure how I would check the starter in the way you listed, it is a diesel, doesn't the circuit have to be on in some way?

 

What you will actually be doing is running power directly from the battery to the starter. Do this, turn the ignition key to the on position, run a standard battery jumper cable from the positive post of your battery to the positive post on the starter. Since the starter is still mounted, it's grounded. If the starter turns the engine over, it's good. Your problem would be elsewhere. If the starter turns the engine over be prepared for the engine to run.

 

Ok once I get a switch I will do that

 

Ok , here is the latest, put on new switch, the dash panel , did more of a normal "start up sequence" but still no start, the relay still buzzed but the starter did "click" which it did not do before . I went ahead and charged the battery but no luck in starting,
Could I also have a battery issue? Are there any other fuses I may have overlooked ?? Im stumped. Tomorrow , plan to take off battery and take it in for a load test ... any other thoughts ...what am I missing ??

 

The Click/Pop noise is usually a relay operating and then a fuse blows. Did you remove and check ALL of the fuses in the load center? I always check them with an ohm meter in addition to a visual check. I do not believe there are any other fuses, but I do not have the electrical schematic.

A buzzing relay is usually an indication of low voltage. What is the battery voltage?

I would do a battery load test.

Thoroughly clean the battery posts and terminals.

The final question is what could have caused a fuse to blow? If you find a bad fuse, that will lead you in the direction of the problem.

GotDeeres

 

The first click is the preheater
Take a good battery and jump it
Check voltage at B+ to the armature [after the solenoid] with switch in start position
One probe on good ground the other on B+
If you had a clip on dc amp meter
Life would be good
Check all the interlocks ie seat, neutral safety
These new ones have so many safety interlocks
If the stars don't line up
No go
There is a simple explanation
Go slow
Keep it simple

 

GOT IT !!!!!!!!! to sum up, at least my explanation, after installing the new key switch , I assumed battery was good , but GOTDEEREs had me thinking , so I load tested the battery and she could not handle the start up. New battery and all is good again
so my therory and hope it helps someone - my switch was definitely bad and the pop I heard was the post inside that holds the copper plate in proper position snapped. That in turn had started a current draw on the battery even though the key was in the off position. That combined with overnight temps in the single digits fried the battery. I assumed battery was good because at posts it was 11.97 V, and she was fine prior to event . Hind sight is 20/20 but all I think I needed was the switch. In any respect THANK YOU all so much for the direction, I learned alot and saved some $$
Hope I can return the favor some day

 

For future reference, measure the battery voltage when it's under load - such as lights and starter. That is a real load test of the battery. No-load voltage doesn't tell you very much.