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JD 110 RF Generator Teardown and Rebuild

10K views 25 replies 11 participants last post by  littletractorguy  
#1 ·
Well, teardown anyway...

Thought I should document this process in detail...

Front of the Delco-Remy 12v negative-ground generator

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Back of the Delco-Remy 12v negative-ground generator

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Getting the generator pulley off. Wrench is a 15/16". Vice Grips make a handy substitute for a strap wrench. Tricky bit was getting the little half-circle keyway out, it was really jammed in. Wound up using a drift on the back end to pop the front end up enough so that I could pop it out with a cold chisel and hammer..

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Wow, there sure IS a lot of soot and crud in there!

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Finally got the rear mount popped off, the shaft was REALLY pushed onto the bearing. Grease is all dried up in the grease cup.

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Think it could use some new brushes. And definitely a cleanup.

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Steel wool to clean the corrosion off the rotor?

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Need a major cleanup inside the coils there...

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Next step is to get in touch with the guy who sells the rebuild kits for these generators and get myself a set of brushes and springs and bearings...
 
#2 ·
I bought the rebuild kit also, online. It worked great. I didn't change the bearings. He sent new Chinese ones, my originals were fine. I'll use the Chinese ones if I ever have a bearing failure.
 
#4 ·
Well, I had gotten an email back from the guy who sold Larry HIS generator kit, saying that he'd have more listed soon and would let me know, but I haven't heard anything else from him... If anybody sees his listings on eBay, poke me and let me know, please!

Oh, I ALSO got out to a local electronics place I frequent, and ordered a 25 watt variable resistor, which the tech manual calls for when you're doing load testing on the generator OFF tractor... Thinking about actually setting up a test bench for doing that...
 
#6 ·
Doesn't seem to be the same person, but the person Larry used doesn't have anything listed that I can find....
 
#8 ·
Ya, his kits look pretty primo! All nice and shiny! :thThumbsU

I suppose I should google how to do this, before I dive into it...
 
#9 ·
Well, I got the generator kits I ordered... Wound up ordering three of them, one for each of the generators I've got...

This afternoon I came home a bit early and got back to work on the rebuild. The new brush (on the left) is noticeably bigger and in better shape than the old one....

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Got the shiny new spring inserted,

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then latched into place! It DEFINITELY has more K-value than the OLD one! I could see how the brushes would be jumping around with the old one

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Cleaned up the post where the bolt goes in, cleaned up the washer, so I've got as little resistance as possible...

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Strapping one of the new brushes into place. I REALLY like the idea of it being a hex-head bolt for the new one. If you notice, the casing of this generator is NOT green. The casing from my first Deere one has a brush bolt I cannot get out. So this is a spare I got from Greensail.


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Got the grease cap off, then cleaned out all the old cruddy grease.

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Made a bit of a mistake here and, after cleaning out the old grease, I filled the grease cap with NEW grease. Why is this a mistake you ask?

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Because it makes putting the bearing in MUCH more exciting!

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Okay, well, lets put the bearing into the cup and worry about the grease later!

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Nope, that STILL doesn't work!

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Okay, bearing pushed onto the shaft,

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Rotor put into place and brushes set up, WITHOUT the back cover on

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Then, at this point I stopped taking pictures for a bit because my hand got too greasy. Important lesson I've learned, DON'T worry about the grease until you've got the generator reassembled. Just leave the grease cap OFF while you're messing with lining up the covers and reassembling!

So, once I had futzed around with the rear mount and gotten IT kinda lined up, I worked on the front. New bearing pushed into the front mounting frame,

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and the bearing retainer reinstalled. Putting the generator back together was again a somewhat arduous task, as getting those long bolts to line up while holding everything together was a challenge.

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Couldn't figure out what THIS little bushing was for, well, it turns out its for keeping the pulley from sliding too far down the shaft.

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Finally, put the pulley back on and bolted that back up with my 15/16" wrench and vicegrips.

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Next step, popping it into Bror to see what we get for charge. I could not get it spinning fast enough to see any significant voltage or amperage out of it. I had a brief brainwave, when I pulled the air impact out to tighten the pulley bolt up, that I could maybe use the air impact to spin it enough to see voltage. Unfortunately, that was NOT the case. So I still don't know if it actually works as a generator.
 
#12 ·
It spun, but not very fast and it sounded terrible. None of the ones I'm redoing actually put out a charge.


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#13 ·
LTG
I noticed in the picture of the old bearing in the rear cap, that it wasn't a sealed bearing but, the one you installed looks like it is. Just wondering if the bearing was "open" on the backside (couldn't see in the pic), if it wasn't, I don't think the grease you put back there will do much....:dunno:
 
#15 ·
Um, nope! It was closed on the backside.... So, you mean all that fun I had with grease yesterday was for naught?!? Lol! Did I mention I don't do this for a living? Probably a good thing, huh? :)



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#14 ·
I like it, I am sure generator rebuilds will be in my future. :)
 
#17 ·
Ooooooh! I GET it now! THAT'S why they're called "sealed bearings"!


I'm a little slow sometimes... :)


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#18 ·
I missed this informational little thread! That's what happens when people have the nerve to post while I'm at fair:sidelaugh nice job on the rebuild and yea uhh the grease can't get in. You've got a few choices. One leave it alone. Two open it back up and pull the seal out so the grease can get in or three open it up and remove grease. Your grease kind of reminded me of checking the hydraulic pressure on my 414. Word of advise make sure the 3 point arms are down BEFORE removing pressure gauge. Although the dash,seat,steering wheel,part of the hood and me will not rust anytime soon.:bonk:
 
#19 ·
So, started on my second generator this morning, didn't take as many pics, but I figured I should share these two as they were something I didn't mention from the last one...

Here's how I've been cleaning the soot (for lack of a better word) off of the shunt and field coil plates on the inside of the generator... Because I can't imagine that having all that soot on the plates doesn't interfere with its performance:

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Sponge sanding block is EXACTLY the right size to use to clean the soot off. Some Simple Green and a paper towel to wipe up, and voila!

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This one, the insides weren't as bad. Springs weren't obviously stressed, brushes weren't too bad (replaced them anyway, on principle), and 3 ounces of soot didn't fall out when I opened the case up... Oh, and I DIDN'T grease up the sealed bearings this time. It went much quicker!
 
#20 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey LTG,
I wasn't trying to pick on you about the sealed bearings, I really didn't know if the bearing was open on the back or not. Just don't want to offend anybody. I do want to thank you for all of the work you've done uploading pics and documenting procedures in your posts! Very informative:thThumbsU
 
#21 ·
No offense taken, WildTyee! I just can't believe I'd never made the connection between that phrase I keep hearing thrown around ("sealed bearing") and what those two bearings I dropped into that generator actually WERE! I mean, I picked those puppies up and looked at them, and said to myself, "Hey, neat, they've got covers on BOTH sides. Wonder why?" :00000061::sidelaugh

So, now, SERIOUS question here, now. Remember, I don't do this for a living... I just put another set of these sealed bearings in the second generator, but I DIDN'T fill the grease cups on either end... Because these bearings are sealed, right? That means they're lubed on the inside, right? So these generators should be fine with these bearings, right?
 
#22 ·
Yes however probably not for the 45 years the old ones were.:dunno: but considering you will have 3 machines to put hrs on they will last for a loooong time. I would think 20 years should be ok.
 
#23 ·
LTG,it's called the LEARNING CURVE,we all been there,mine was doing the same thing with grease in between the spindle bearings.Good job,I wonder if those Gen are tha same as used on OLD GM 1950 vehicles,looks the same?
 
#24 ·
Well, I put the meter on Ernie's battery last night and fired him up. Through all the exhaust smoke I could see that the voltage readings on Ernie were in the 12.6 or 12.7 range too, regardless of what speed he was going. So... Hmmmmm....
 
#25 ·
LTG, I just checked my 65 110. Ranges from 12.65 at idle to 12.89 wide open. Not had any issues with dead battery. My 66 with the new armature was putting out around 13.25. I have no tried messing with either regulator. Too many other things to work on.


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#26 ·
Hey, thanks for that Smalljob! That gives me some points to ponder, that maybe these guys are working right anyway. I haven't run ANY of them for long enough to be able to tell if the batteries are holding a charge, I wonder if the only way I can REALLY tell if the generator is doing anything is if I set up a bench test station. THAT sounds like a good winter project, something I've got enough electrical system parts to accomplish as well. I haven't messed around with the regulators either, they kinda scare me. I've been reading up in the tech manual about how to adjust them, but I don't have the hardware setup yet to test them off-tractor and it looks like a real pain to try adjusting them ON the tractor.