Well, I don't know the answer to your question, but from the photos, you do very nice work. PJ

 

Thanks, Paul! I'm getting some very good advice!

 

Your hubs and or axles are worn.. usually the soft cast hubs wear first, vs the hard axles.. thae fact that you can get the axle splines standing out from the hub proves this. if you can't get the 450ft# of torque on the axle nut before it bottoms on the axle splines.. you will either need to repalce the hubs ( 50$ each or so ).. or do the poor mans trick of shimming them with metal band strapping from a pallate.. and cut into strips and lay in the hub splines, then torque down, use it for an hour, retorque.. use it for 10hr, retorque and go.

the steering fore and aft sector align 1-way correctly, only, in order to be timed correct. in addition, you also must mate them to the ballnut correctly. the I&T fo-4 tells you how to count the teeth on the sector gear and what teeth mesh.. when you get that right, both steering arms will be swept back slightly.. then you use the draglinks and set the front wheel toe in to about 1/4"

soundguy

 

Sounder answered everything correctly as usual - I would only add (since you did say shadetree mechanic directions) that the easiest way to align the front wheels is to take two measurements. One from inside tire to inside of the other tire on the front side (closest to the radiator) about halfway up, then a second measurement from inside tire to inside of the other tire closest to the drivers seat about halfway up. Compare these two measurments and the front of the tire should be 1/4" shorter than the back of the tire measurement. This is how you get that 1/4" toe in Sounder speaks of.

Me - I prefer 1/2" - 1" of toe in on those worn down steering sector teeth you spoke about to keep the wobble down as you move across the pasture if you have a 9N/2N or early 8N setup.

HTH,
Dan

 

Thanks guys.

I did manage to get it torqued properly, but I'll have to put off untill later replacing the hub and/or the axle. First I have to get everything bolted back together and off of the lawn! I'll put in a picture of the axle end. It looks kind of buggered to me. Can you tell from this? If that is the case, then a new axle is in order...jeez!

So, how do you get differential oil out of brand new brake shoes? Maybe I could run it around for a while with only the other brake installed! That's about how well it worked before!:sidelaugh

The toe-in sounds straight forward enough. I have the later model steering box so I'll go for 1/4" to start.

 

That axle is gone - worn from running the hubs too loose too long. Needs to be replaced as well as the hybs.

As far as getting oil off the brake pads - spray good with brake cleaner, wipe with clean paper towels. Heat up with a torch until the oil bubbles to the top - don't hold the torch in one spot too long, wave it around. Wipe with clean paper towels and clean again with brake cleaner. Repeat until oil stops bubbling to the top. It will take SEVERAL repeats, but will eventually stop bubbling to the top. Use a whole can of brake fluid and a whole roll of cheap paper towels. I have successfully cleaned pads up this way.

Dan

 

Ditto what dan says.. when you do an axle.. replace it's hub as well.. no need to start half way worn.

brake and carb cleaner is about the best stuff as dan points out.. you might get by with naptha or straight laquer thinner.. but the spray cleaner is easy.

a plumbers torch is plenty of heat.

be carefull and don't start any fires!

soundguy

 

I concur, you do nice work!

 

I bet you could epoxy the hubs on... And hope you never need to take them off... But if your lucky you might never need to...

 

That'sthe spirit! Actually there is RTV in the splines. We'll see how it goes. I have to get it back together, then go back later if it doesn't hold. Too bad about the new bearing, I wonder if it will survive the move to the new axle, if I need one.

 

the rtv was likely placed there to prevent leaks from the severly worn axle/hub fit.

If I was putting it together like this.. I'd surely shim it and then rtv it..

work and retorque as needed till it stays.

soundguy