Congrates on your new to you tractor, I consider a set of manuals an absolute must for any owner. There are plenty of sources on line to obtain a set, I think even Amazon has them.

 

Yes...thanks...just ordered one on Amazon . I'll see how good it is before I go off searching / downloading another.

I really like hard copy manuals.

 

The Operators Manual will contain all of the info on how to operate the tractor, as well as how to perform routine maintenance like changing fluids and filters, etc. If you plan to do more than that youself, you will also need a Service Manual, and the Service Manual assumes that you have access to the Operators Manual, so most of the routine maintenance info is excluded from the Service Manual.

 

Good to know...thanks.

 

So....I was initially in the incorrect forum....so...the question I posed is....who else has one??

 

So Nobby, did you get the wheel off? What did your visitors think of your new tractor?

 

I haven't tried yet. Visitors start arriving tomorrow...off and on until Friday...and then I leave for Roncallo's for a week to help him erect his mancave. Concrete work finished a couple of days ago.

But my neighbors are jealous...lol.

 

It's nice of you to give John a hand. Tell him I said hello. I guess you're taking the truck.

I'm sure your neighbors are very jealous and are being extra nice to you now. Have a safe trip to Ct. and back.

 

LOL...yup...I will be popular when the snow flies.

Might take The PIG to John's. Weather will dictate.

 

This manual might be helpful. Or might get me in trouble.

 

Just downloaded this.

 

So in preparation for going to the local New Holland dealer....I decided to pull all the filters.
Looks like the Exxon Valdez was in my garage.

 

Fuel filter full of caca.

 

Looks like the hydraulic filter is from 1995. Engine oil filter was more recent.

 

The Snowblower on the front is driven by the rear PTO.
Small transfer case on the blower and a larger on the rear.
Never saw 80w90 oil look like this.

 

Greased up all the blower related grease fittings....by that point I was filthy and called it a day.

 

Milky looking oil means you have water in that 80W90. It is a common thing for gear boxes to develop condensation, some more so than others.

 

Ya well...who knows how long that's been in there.

Fresh oil now!

 

The water in the fluids is probably from it not being worked hard enough. Every time you shut off a tractor and it cools down, you get condensation from humidity in the air, as all of the fluid reservoirs and sumps are vented to the outside air. When you work a tractor hard enough on a regular basis, things heat up enough to drive the previous cycle of condensation out of the oils and fluids, but if you repeatedly run it without working it hard enough, it never gets hot enough to drive out the old condensation, and the water builds up over the days/months/years. If you aren't going to work it hard, you should change the fluids more often to keep that from happening. If you do work it hard, at least most of the times that you use it, then you can go longer numbers of hours between fluid and filter changes.

 

The water in the fluids is probably from it not being worked hard enough. Every time you shut off a tractor and it cools down, you get condensation from humidity in the air, as all of the fluid reservoirs and sumps are vented to the outside air. When you work a tractor hard enough on a regular basis, things heat up enough to drive the previous cycle of condensation out of the oils and fluids, but if you repeatedly run it without working it hard enough, it never gets hot enough to drive out the old condensation, and the water builds up over the days/months/years. If you aren't going to work it hard, you should change the fluids more often to keep that from happening. If you do work it hard, at least most of the times that you use it, then you can go longer numbers of hours between fluid and filter changes.

Thanks for the advice. I just bought this tractor with unknown history which is why I'm replacing everything.

That ugly oil came from the PTO driven snowblower transfer case...which...could be a year old or 30 years old...no idea.

 

Good idea starting fresh with all of the fluids, Nobby. The TC oil looks like it has been around for a while. Looking at the close up pics that you posted I was impressed by how good the paint looks. Very clean too!

 

It is actually in very good shape. Kept indoors at a wealthy person's estate....used exclusively for snow removal with a total of 935 hrs in 29 years. Alas....some maintenance might have be forgotten / missed / ignored.
I'll get it sorted.

 

I picked up the 5 filters, 40 liters of oil, a new front tire and stud kit.
Expensive day.
Spent the day draining fluids and installing filters.
Lucky me that the front mounted snow blower has a shaft running from the rear PTO. Because it was exactly under the hydraulic drain plugs. Made for a fun 22 liter drain.
But that was the cleanest fluid thankfully.
Coolant was ugly. Front diff and final drives...ugly.

Coolant

 

5 gallon pail pump from Amazon works great.

 

I studded the new tire. I will install tomorrow.
My back hurts and I have a new head scar.

 

It sounds like you had a "fun" day. Well worth the aggravation though. How hard was it to remove the PTO shaft? I like the 5 gal. pump and studded tire(s) idea. I guess that it won't be too much longer before you start getting snow up there.

 

I left the PTO shaft in and dealt with the Exxon Valdez oil spills..lol.

The studs are Canadian made....iGrip....good reviews and what the New Holland dealer had in stock. Bought additional studs online from iGrip...same price as the dealer.

Not cheap, though. $271 for 200....and I needed 112 for each front tire.

 

Was the drive shaft too close to the drain port to be able to use a funnel? I have several different sizes and shapes of funnels just for draining and filling the various fluids on my machines. Some have long flexible tubes on the bottom to route them wherever I need them to go.

 

I have a bunch of whacky funnels too........maybe I could have rigged something up....but I didn't over think it...obviously. In the back of my mind....probably the only time I'll do this job.

 

Is there enough clearance between the drain holes and the driveshaft so that you could run drainpipes over and around the driveshaft using threaded pipe and elbows in case you have to do it again?

 

Probably. But I don't like dangly things from oil pans. Scares me.

 

So....I finished up today.

Put the wheels on and.......broke a wheel bolt. How? I tightened 11 no problem. But I spun the head of one with the same torque of 70 lbs. Mystery...to me.

The other thing...I checked air pressure in the tires....fronts good.

Rears..fluid came spurting out of my air pressure doo hickey. Doesn't taste like antifreeze but is a little salty tasting. What is it and why should the last owner, who only used it for snow removal, need it? Traction? But it must be something that won't freeze?
How...do I get rid of it?

 

If it tastes salty the it's probably calcium chloride mixed with water, which is what old school farmers used. It has the most weight per volume of almost any ballast liquid except for maybe rimguard, which is a newer invention, and also has a lower freezing point than most, but it is a salt and will corrode the rims if it leaks past the inner tube.

 

OK...so with this calcium chloride goo in my rear tires...what should the tire air pressure be?

 

It's a new tractor to you. One of the p.o.'s may have not used a torque wrench to tighten the lugs, but an impact wrench or just a long breaker bar and over-tightened them. That one finally failed from that, and just happened on your watch.

 

I like this answer the best.