So first problem is manual shows blower motor on a bracket mounted to mower.

Second problem is attaching discharge chute to mower?

1. I've yet to see one with the blower mounted on the tractor.
2. The tube that you have not connected is what you use to connect to the mower's discharge chute. If you were to google for images, you would see lots of pics showing the attachment.

 

The part that connects to the discharge on the mower deck is called the deck boot. They are often specific to the deck and have a mating piece like a hanger that bolts to the deck, but I've heard of universal boots, and/or you can get creative in how to attach it. If you decide to figure out your own attahcment system, keep in mind it should be easy to quickly remove out in the yard for when it clogs.

 

Thanks. It's confusing because these pictures are from the owner's manual.
The chute attachment I would have to fabricate an adapter, but as heavy as tongue weight is now my mower does a wheel stand.

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...as heavy as tongue weight is now my mower does a wheel stand...

Moving the motor from the tongue to the back of the tractor wouldn't change that. You either need ballast at the front of the tractor or the back of the trailer.

 

Here is one for sale right now with photos...hope it helps
https://cnj.craigslist.org/grd/d/bridgewater-simplicity-lawn-tractor/6998292217.html

But there are front ballast systems for heavy weight at the rear

 

Thanks all! It works great on the Cub. It turned out not to be a problem with tongue weight (even with my 212# lard[emoji16]). It was way easier than I thought. Discharge I was in a hurry so vice grips (I'll fix it better later, bolt on adapter I can easily fabricate).
It also has a broken door latch I'll need to fix. For now it leaks out the door so not as efficient as it should be. The dump feature also I'll mount an old rake on it. It would only dump over a bank as is.
Funny it ran great, then cut off (I had rebuilt the carberator). Only tool I had was the vice grips. No fuel coming into carb through cut off valve. B&S 8hp. Turns out fill cap was too tight! Letting air in it works perfectly (cap snug, not real tight).
In pictures you see where I did and didn't make a few passes.
I may order 8" hose...it's expensive but would be handy sucking leaves in overhangs, etc like a big vacuum cleaner.

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You have it hooked up and working now but,

TV makes 2 versions of their units, one that mounts the motor/blower on the trailer frame (1080), and another that mounts the motor/blower on the back of the mower (1060), usually a zero turn but it can also be a reg tractor, either without w/o a 3 point.

I have the tractor mounted version but plan to mount it on the trailer so I can use it on different tractors.

 

Yeah, they work really well. I find using higher-lift blades also help with lifting stuff up (leaves, pine needles, grass, whatever else is on the ground) and getting it into the chute.

I have a DR Power version of that unit, that uses 6" hoses, with a 15' (or so) hose with a wand for cleaning up flower beds, which works much better than the smaller 4" hose/wand setup that my walkbehind billygoat power vacuum has (both the size of the hose, as well as the longer wand so I don't have to bend over to use it). The primary downside I've found is occasionally a branch will get stuck in the hose, then leaves build up on the branch and then the hose gets plugged, and it can be a hassle to unplug the hose when that happens.

 

The primary downside I've found is occasionally a branch will get stuck in the hose, then leaves build up on the branch and then the hose gets plugged, and it can be a hassle to unplug the hose when that happens.

When that occasionally happens with my Cyclone rake I just flip the two hose clips and hold the trumpet end of the pickup to the motor and it generally just sucks the jam back out. Or at least the debris so I can put a pole down to break up the obstruction. That's using an 8" -18Ft pickup hose.
MikeC