What model tractor?

 

From the installation instructions: tighten the blade bolt to 125 ft-lb while the blade is blocked with a 2x4 or similar. You can now remove the pulley nut also with the blade blocked with a 2x4. After installing the pulley, torque the pulley's nut to 105 ft-lb. Then loosen the blade bolt ant torque it to its normal value of 50 ft-lb.

It worked fine for me.

Mark

 

Why would i need to tighten the blade bolt? what does this do?

 

When a wimpy impact won't remove a nut a 3 ft. pine impact will usually get er done on most any mower without following manufacturer instructions. Even a mighty swing from an old man can do it to it.

 

okay i have the nut off. How do i get the pulley off? Do i need a puller?

 

Maybe. The shaft is tapered, and the sheave (pulley) may have a tight seat since it's been on a while. You can try teasing it off by GENTLY prying around the edge between the edge and the deck surface, but a puller would be better. Use the holes in the sheave instead of the edge of the sheave so you don't bend or warp it. As you tighten the puller, smack the sheave lightly with a deadblow mallet to break it loose from the shaft.

Not that it matters now, since you have the nut off, but tightening the blade bolt to that high torque figure keeps it from coming off when you use it to hold the shaft still while you remove the nut on the other end.

Good luck swapping things out, you'll enjoy the PowerFlow.

 

I drill and tap two 1/4" holes on the hub right across from each other. Then I take a piece of flat stock and drill 2 holes the same distance apart. Put this plate over the end of the shaft, put a couple of grade 5 or 8 bolts in and snug it down tight. Then a whack with a hammer on the plate will usually break the pulley free. I end up with 2 holes in the hub but no bent pulley. Jay

 

Well using a pulley puller i managed to bend the pulley but it hasnt budged. I tried on the outside of the pulley, and now im trying to use the bolts. I get a bunch of tension on it, and then hit the center bolt with a hammer hoping it would pop free. Nope. Also used some heat on the pulley shaft with no success.

Man this stinks.

 

Also used some heat on the pulley shaft with no success.

Man this stinks.

You put the heat in the wrong place. Expanding the pulley by applying the heat to the outer periphery of the pulley causes expansion without heating the shaft. Apply the heat with the puller under tension and pop the puller screw end with a hammer.

 

My usual spindle pulley removal method is with an air hammer. A 3/4" socket, 1/2" drive is placed over the shaft end to help keep the air hammer centered. Pulling on the pulley with one hand while air hammering gets most of them loose. I have never seen a tapered shaft on a mower spindle. We still don't know what model of tractor and deck you are working on.

 

That's what I did as far as heating the pulley. I'm a mechanical engineer. I know my way around. Its froze on and my little torch isn't hot enough to get the pulley to expand before it soaks to the spindle shaft.

Any was it's on a 425 with a 60in deck. I ended up swapping the guy spindles. Much easier that way.

 

All I have to determine possible solutions is to go by what was written.

QUOTE: Also used some heat on the pulley shaft with no success.

After that statement the level of anyone's education is a guess at best, moot and I doubt if you'll be bothered with any of my suggestions in the future.

 

Ouch !

 

If meant spindle shaft I would have said that. I should have said pulley collar or something to that nature. I know better than to heat the shaft itself. But if you wish to not post that's fine as well.

 

I have had to cut the pulleys off after I mangle them when they won't come off. If you have something like a steering wheel puller, they are great for this type of thing. I used one to remove the wheel from my Troy Bilt horse tiller, it was able to pull it off after drilling two holes in the rim. Good luck.

 

That's the method I was told to use on a camshaft gear once. It's fiber and some of the teeth stipped but the hub is metal. Can't be pounding too hard on that gear as there is a cast thrust washer behind. Too late I found out but it's a cheap part so not much lost. Drill two holes on opposite sides of the hub. Carefully drive a punch into one of the holes and the gear slides off.