A friend of mine dissected a 300 or so gallon IBC plastic tote. Removed the plastic tote part, and a little reinforcement around the cage, and he had a cheap box he uses for the same purpose you’ Looking at.

 

We also use these, we have ten in total. They work great! With them fully stacked, they hold about a face cord. Now, in theory, that should be about 900 pounds (mixed hardwoods) + the weight of the cage. Now, with the fully loaded, the ck30 (similar to your machine) can’t lift them more than 6” with 950 pounds of ballast. Which is enough to move them around. I have thought of using the loader + 3 pt pallet forks, then being able to carry 2 cords of wood.

Nice looking machine!

 

Seems a bit redundant. A loader bucket is a "carry all box". If it's too small, perhaps add some side and back boards to increase capacity.

if you really want a separate box, maybe add some side walls to a pallet.

There are also some examples of 3-point "tractor carry-all boxes" on google.

 

Yeah... Till you go to move wood from the pile to the house. Throw the forks on, drive out there to the pile, grab the box that's already full, bring it to the house. Mno need to get off machine to stack the wood in the bucket, then pull it out of the bucket to restack it again. Helps to have multiple boxes :tango_face_glasses:

 

Silage bucket comes to mind
I think I would have gotten a larger bucket from the get go

https://www.everythingattachments.com/

 

Well when buying used, you sometimes have to get what ya got. My priorities were:
a. Able to handle the air blast sprayer
b. 4wd
c. Turf tires to not tear up the lawn
d. NO EPA emissions standards on motor
e. Low hours and in very good condition
f. Low enough purchase price that I could buy out of "mad money" and not take anything out of the bank. :tango_face_devil:

The size of the bucket was not a huge priority and now with the suggestion of an IBC tote I can get for free, I think the solution is at hand.

 

2x6's, 2x4's and 1/2" plywood. We make boxes like that for every job for trash and scrapping out job sites.


3 2x6 rails on the bottom boxed with 2x6's and 5 uprights with a top plate with 2x4's, then cover it in plywood. Done. :tango_face_grin:

You can make it to whatever size you want, then just make fork pockets in the rear for the forks. You can add holes for a chain/strap to hold it to the loader so you can dump if you wish. :tango_face_wink:

 

Ok,
So I did some calculations, and 2/3rds of a face cord is 21.34 cubic ft, which = 640 lbs. the stripped totes weigh about 50 lbs, so that is 690 lbs. so, 690 + 200 - 250 lbs for your pallet forks, so you should be able to lift it enough to comfortably move it around. I looked up the specs for your loader, and it will lift 800 lbs to full height at the pin. It has a breakout (lift, not curl) of 1,600 lbs at the pin, so, in theory, it should do it comfortably.

 

I hope the frame of that tractor was built for the loads and ballast you intend to use.
There are always trade offs when using any kind of machinery. One is safety
I hope yours is feasible.
On a side note. Most loader manufacturers offer weld on brackets to install on anything you want

 

I hope the frame of that tractor was built for the loads and ballast you intend to use.
There are always trade offs using any kind of machinery. One is safety
I hope yours is feasible.
On a side note. Most loader manufacturers offer weld on brackets to install on anything you want

It's well within spec: For me, the most important # was being able to handle 800# 36" behind rear 3 point for the air blast sprayer.

Loader:
Loader type: CaseIH L130
Weight: 839 lbs [380 kg]
Height (to pin): 100.8 inches [256 cm]
Clearance, dumped bucket: 83.3 inches [211 cm]
Dump angle: 39
Reach at ground: 23.5 inches [59 cm]
Rollback angle: 20
Breakout force (lift): 1,602 lbs [726 kg]
Lift to full height (at pin): 800 lbs [362 kg]


Production:
Manufacturer: CaseIH

Variants:
D33: gear
DX33: hydrostatic

CaseIH DX33 Engine:
Shibaura 1.5L 3-cyl diesel
full engine details ...

Capacity:
Fuel: 7.3 gal [27.6 L]

3-Point Hitch:
Rear Type: I
Rear lift (at 24"/610mm): 1,635 lbs [741 kg]

Power Take-off (PTO):
Rear PTO: independent
Rear RPM: 540
Mid PTO: standard
Mid RPM: 2000

Dimensions & Tires:
Front tire: 7.00x14
Rear tire: 11.2x24
full dimensions and tires ...

CaseIH DX33 attachments:
front-end loader
all DX33 attachments ...

DX33 Serial Numbers:

- Serial numbers unknown -



CaseIH DX33 Power:
Engine (gross): 33 hp [24.6 kW]
PTO (claimed): 26.9 hp [20.1 kW]

Mechanical:
Chassis: 4x4 MFWD 4WD
Cab: Foldable ROPS. Optional canopy, soft cab, and radio.

Hydraulics:
Total flow: 7.6 gpm [28.8 lpm]

Electrical:
Charging system: alternator
Charging amps: 40

Battery:
Number: 1
Cold-cranking amps: 420
Volts: 12

 

With the cage around the plastic tote, it will easy to add a chain to it to wrap around the frame of the forks. That is in case you ever need to use the ‘unload this really fast’ feature.

 

For my firewood needs, for the living room fireplace, I simply judiciously stack/layer my firewood on pallets. Load enough so I don't have to move a lot of them to have a ready supply of wood at the front porch. I usually have about 3 or 4 layers. I stack the pallets away from the house for storage and bring 1 or 2 to the house as needed. Pallets can usually be gotten for free from many sources. I have forks that are chained to the bucket so they don't hold a lot of weight.

 

If you have access to free or cheap IBC totes, that's definitely the way to go.

As was also mentioned, you could also build your own crates (I've seen at least one set of these posted by a member here over the years). Pallets for the base, and scrap wood for the sides.

Mike

 

Yup that is the direction I am going. Got a free IBC tote from the place I get orchard chemicals from. Haven't had a chance to modify it yet. Debating on leaving the plastic tank in it to stop wood from falling out.

 

If you intend to use lots of these for storage (single time handling), I'd think I'd lose the plastic, so it helps the wood dry. I'd think the plastic would hold rain water and block air flow.

I also think that stacking the pieces in carefully would make more efficient use of the space.

Mike