The engine does have to be removed from these if a coil has to be replaced. Get a service manual from this sight or another and start tracing wiring first. The wire going to the coil is a GROUNDING WIRE it grounds the coil to shut off engine. Do not put any power to coil. If it’s still good it won’t be with power to it. Check to see if the grounding wire is not chaffed or constantly grounding the coil and check the ignition switch to see if the ground terminal is only grounding in the off position before replacing a coil.

 

I looked at a wiring diagram. What I found is two blue wires coming from the tractor wiring harness connects to a single black wire going in past the flywheel shroud i'm guessing to the ignition coil. So with the parking brake engaged and the ignition switch position to on. I get an open circuit from the double blue wires to the engine block. However, with the ignition switched to off. It completes the circuit and I can hear the meter buzz. So it appears it's a good open circuit when it should be and closes with the key off.

Looking even more like a coil? How much work are we talking? A whole day? Also, is there any special alignment when mounting the engine to the frame again? Anything else that would be good to take care of while the engine is out?

Thank you!

 

You could disconnect the coil ground wires and see if the coils will spark then. If not, then the coils have failed. However if there are 2 coils, both failing at once is a real coincidence. Any chance it has been running on one cylinder for a while?
Plugs should tell that story.

 

I pretty much did just what you suggested. There was never any issue of power before and when I removed the plugs to inspect for flooding. Both plugs looked even in carbon coloration. It has a single coil.. not cheap.. However, I just ordered one for $80 from "Isavetractors'. Hopefully the quality is a little better.

 

There is nothing to align when putting engine back in. You main stumbling point may be the driveshaft. It could be stuck together at the slip joint just from lack of grease and not much movement over the years. I usually take the engine out leaving the front half of driveshaft attached. Just mark it so it’s back together same way for balance purposes. One thing to check or replace when engine is out is the front pto belt tensioner/pulley Just check it all and possibly the belts.

take off hood and side panels, disconnect wiring and hoses. Remove front Mount bolts then remove front plate front frame. Remove rear mount bolts and engine should be able to come out. When setting coil back in place use a manella folder (.010”) and let magnets from flywheel pull coil tight to flywheel with a piece of manella in between for gap. Pretty straight forward

 

There is nothing to align when putting engine back in. You main stumbling point may be the driveshaft. It could be stuck together at the slip joint just from lack of grease and not much movement over the years. I usually take the engine out leaving the front half of driveshaft attached. Just mark it so it’s back together same way for balance purposes. One thing to check or replace when engine is out is the front pto belt tensioner/pulley Just check it all and possibly the belts.

take off hood and side panels, disconnect wiring and hoses. Remove front Mount bolts then remove front plate front frame. Remove rear mount bolts and engine should be able to come out. When setting coil back in place use a manella folder (.010”) and let magnets from flywheel pull coil tight to flywheel with a piece of manella in between for gap. Pretty straight forward

Thank you! Sounds somewhat easy to do! Probably would be a good time to replace the PTO belts. I'll probably buy some engine cleaner / degreaser as well. Hoping to get started Friday evening.

 

Pull the shrouds off and check fins for grass and debris. Also check for oil leaks. Valve covers, oil sending unit and main seals are all easy to do when engine is off of tractor IF ANYTHING IS LEAKING The main thing to check is the pto tensioner and pulleys. Bolens parts and supply’s has matched sets of belts for these. I just purchased a set and they have been holding up great. 30ish dollars for a matched OEM set is well worth it. These I believe are a 1/2 size

 

That's... A really good idea. I purchased a cheap gasket kit off eBay a week or so ago. It came with both shaft seals. You're right, might as well replace those while I have the engine out. As for the "Bolens parts and supply's" is that the name of a web company? If I have to have them shipped, I might just try Rural King to save shipping time. I'm trying to beat the snow.

 

X 2 on the oil pressure sending unit, they will start leaking where the plastic meets the metal. Also look at your rear motor mounts. When they get weak they bottom out and the attachment screws start hitting on the motor mount support strap. check for cracks in your engine tins and weld them up to stop them from self destruction. (they are NLA and hard to find used) Front ones crack by the bolt holes. Top one that covers the exhaust is also known to crack. Very thin metal but it can be welded on low amps with a mig. I usually heat the new welded area red hot with a torch to stress-relieve it. This prevents a new crack in the heat affected zone of the weld.

 

Thank you for that advice! I'll definitely replace the oil sending unit as you both have suggested. As for the shrouds... I don't have a welder, work has a weld shop, but by the time they can get to it.. might be months. I'll give those a good look over.

 

The blue Kevlar belts rk are descent belts but I’m pretty sure the OEM are a 1/2 size and just fit a little better. I’ve had both in the past.

 

Thanks for that! Also, I've been trying to get my hands on Kohler part# 25 099 27-S which I believe should be the oil pressure switch for the Magnum 20. Is there another pressure switch that I swap the original with? Seems like no one has one locally and Amazon is saying a week for delivery.

 

If they are rubber anti-vibration mounts, I would replace them, or if they aren't available, perhaps try fashioning something using say, pieces of rubber floor matts.

 

Some reason I was thinking I couldn't find those anymore. However, there is lots of new ones available online. I just purchased a couple.

Thank you.