[Jimmy in NC]

I'm switching all of my riders to a regular old fashioned gas cap with out the gauge. It seems that every one I've gotten that had the gauge either had a lense so cloudy you could not see the gauge, or the bigger problem the lense was missing wich turns the gauge into a funnel to collect rain water and dump it into the tank. For around $5 I found a nice chrome one that looks very similar to the one used on the 400's. It has a nice domed shape to it. If anyone is interested the part number for Stant 11623. the part number for Napa 703-1220. This fits the older style tanks with the 1/4 turn tabs on the inside of the filler not the newer smaller one. Ed

And another post...

Third: If I have to modify an L tank into a 500 tank, does anyone have a current part number or source for the "L" tank lids that were round as opposed to the ones with ears on either side. I think with one of those lids I can leave the hole stock in the 526 hood.

A Stant #10623 gas cap (NAPA BK7031220) will fit.

George

I think the 11623 and 10623 are the same but maybe examining them closely will show the difference. Maybe one is chrome and the other isn't or something like that. Haven't gotten that far myself but will probably be doing it fairly soon so if you do some research let us know what you find out.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

One more tidbit of info, if you find a parts counter employee that doesn't seem to function with out a Year, Model, etc. you can ask for a fuel cap for a 1968 Ford Bronco. That will yield a Stant 10623 or equivalent.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Here are a few pictures:

Stant 10623

Original 800/8000 cap:

L-model cap:

So they are all the same opening. I actually think a Stant cap would be best at keeping rain out of the tank if you don't want a gauge.

 

[Neen]

well I promised a video so hope this works



Please forgive me for the vertical video shot with my camera phone...I know it's annoying.
The engine will only run in the "Choke On" position. I can throttle up and down with full choke but as soon as I de-choke it will die. I am wondering when i de-choke it that if I am getting too lean of a condition or if all teh fuel is being sucked out of the fuel bowl. The new fuel pump works good so the only other thing I can think of is that the float level is not right. When held upside-down, the float was parallel to the plate...maybe a mm high at an incline when upside-down.
Also, thanks on the gas cap info....works perfectly and looks great! (Went with the NAPA one)

Finally, should the key turn the engine off? I can remove the key and keep the engine running. Only way to "kill" the engine is to bring the choke down to "OFF".

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Before you get too worried about the choke, verify the choke arm is on the carb correctly. We once brought one home that wouldn't start well.. unless the choke was off. Turns out when it started, the spring flap on the choke butterfly would open and it would run.

I know you have been through the carb, but did you buy all new brass tubes/jets? If you only got gaskets, try opening it up again and using piano wire to carefully go through all of the passages on the tubes. It's either a backwards choke or it's running out of fuel.

You are getting close.... are you getting excited yet?

 

[Richard-tx]

The idle jet may be clogged. That can cause a lean condition requiring the choke be at least partially closed. Take the idle mix screw out and give it a shot of 120 psi compressed air.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Just watched your video and it is one of two things, a still plugged circuit in the carb like Richard pointed out or a backwards choke. You can not see the choke butterfly so the only way to tell if it is open or not is with something that is soft that you can run down the air intake. I think we used some 18ga wire laying around the shop. Another way I may try is to run it up to wide open and then pull the choke off and let it die. The pull the plug out right away and see if it is very wet indicating it was flooded out of choked off. It just sounds to me like it has to clear excess fuel when you pull the choke back on before it winds up again. Now that being said, digital videos with video equipment that most of us own, is less than stellar so my ears may be deceiving me.

When your choke is applied, what direction does the choke shaft turn when looking at the motor from the left side? Counter-clockwise (towards the front of the tractor) or clockwise (to the rear of the tractor)?

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Also one more point, it wouldn't surprise me one bit if your Briggs didn't want any choke 90% of the time to start. Mine doesn't like it most of the time in the summer and if it wants some, just a very little bit.

 

[Neen]

You can see how the Choke is set up in the pic below...when I move the Choke lever to the "On" position, the choke shaft rotates clockwise.

What about turning the motor off? Should I be able to kill the motor via the key or do you have to snuff it via choke and throttle to power down?

I am getting very excited...got to have my boy ride on it with me when I moved it into my driveway. so far 1st and 2nd gears work great in forward and reverse. I'll check out the other gears once I get it running top-notch.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Key switch should kill the motor. Looks like yours is one of the late model motors with magneto style/breakerless ignition which is a very good thing. When the key switch is moved to "Off" it should ground out the white wire that is located just below and to the left of the carb. (Can be seen in the above picture.) If you had points they would be located below that wire junction block. With the motor running you should be able to take a test lead or any small bit of wire and hold it to a ground on the motor block and to that connection and kill the motor. If it doesn't then the wire is disconnected on the Coil/Magneto. If it does kill it, there is simply a break between that block and the switch, bad switch contacts, or the switch case isn't grounding to the dash/dash isn't grounding to the frame.

Back to the choke... I can't recall right off hand but does the cast in "Choke" and arrow match the way you are pulling the choke cable for choke? I think you are saying it is. If that is the case, I'm leaning to another blockage some where. Just out on a limb, have you tried opening the main jet up a bit to see if it changes it? The book calls for 1-1/2 out to start with and go from there. I wouldn't be scared to run it 2 - 2-1/2 turns out. Just a thought.

Jimmy

 

[Neen]

Alright, I'll check the grounds on that wire and the ignition switch.

Yeah the choke arrow is on sync with what happens when the choke level is moved to the "on" position. I'll check the main jet...I'm pretty sure that the needle is backed out 1 1/2 turns. I live at altitude (7000 ft) so I'm not too sure if I need to go out more or less turns. The brass main jet could be obstructed due to some of the brass being 'shaved' off of the jet head due to the small area you have to work with when getting a screwdriver into that small opening. If it is damaged...can you still purchase a replacement?

Also, you mentioned installing a tach or at least a temp tach for tuning. how would I wire that? One wire for ground and one wire connected to the coil? If you have a pic of a tach installed that would be fantastic!

 

[Jimmy in NC]

I'll get a pic of my tach in a little bit. If you didn't get all new brass in the carb, yes it is still available. If there is any deformation, that's the issue. They are easily damaged splitting the top and bottom of the carb. I can get individual part numbers for the brass or I can get you the number for the whole kit with the brass.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

This is a link to a tach like I use. I find it easier to use than an laser photo tach that most use. I would like to add a laser tach to my tool box also but this one does for now.

http://www.wayfair.com/Electronic-Sp...FQUGnQodkVrrcg

 

[Neen]

excellent, do you know where I can get the carb main jet as a stand alone unit?

 

[Richard-tx]

excellent, do you know where I can get the carb main jet as a stand alone unit?

I have never been able to find one. It is easier to just buy a carb. As a rule, I do not remove main or idle jets. The last time I removed jets was one a Ford 302 two barrel carb.