First of

...did you check for voltage at the red cable where it connects to the starter?

 

Make sure the solenoid has a good ground, also make sure the battery ground wire has a good, clean connection. One possible way to check the ground on the solenoid is to meter the case of it, assuming that it's metal, while having voltage on the input wire. Voltage on the case means it's not grounded. Or just check the resistance from the case to the batter negative terminal.

ETA: If the solenoid has a second primary terminal, make sure it is grounded, since the solenoid probably doesn't ground through its case.

 

I do have voltage on the battery cable to solenoid terminal. I have a 4 terminal solenoid and good ground on the connection. I have continuity between the the 2 small terminals on the tractor or on the bench,
What seems funny is the starter showed continuity between hot post and case, and that is why I got new starter. The new one has this same trait and so does my other tractor. Why would this not indicate a starter shorted to ground?
While waiting, I disconnected all safety switches and bypassed them. checked continuity on all wires in harness and found no problems,

 

Let's get back to the basic..... what happens when you turn the key?...Do you hear any clicking or any noises at all...also make sure PTO is off

 

Only noise (effect) is the fuel solenoid opening to let in fuel. No clicking of starter solenoid on start position. As stated, all safety switches disconnected and bypassed.

 

I am wondering if the ignition switch is bad Have you tried jumping from the solenoid to starter?

 

Yes, you can jump from solenoid to starter. However, switch in start position, 12 volts on small white wire to solenoid, and it won't engage starter. In any other life it should turn over.

 

Did you pull that white wire off and make sure contact is clean?...There could be a weak component in the solenoid

 

That wire has been cleaned and plugged in and out many times, and it is the same with old and new solenoid.

 

What about the starter question, why would the outer housing be magnetic( attracts metal)?

 

I can't figure that out...I know you must be frustrated after the expense and effort...at this point I would try Brad's starter assist relay...are you familiar with it?

 

You start with a four pin 12V relay...30 or 40 AMP for horns and lights ...available for as little as $3.50...I have seen for as much as $11...any auto parts store

you will also need an in line fuse holder with a 30 or 40 AMP fuse....a few pieces of wire and a couple of soldrless crimp terminals....then just wire it in according to the attached sketch.....the numbers that you see do not mean anything to you right now...but you will see those numbers on the relay...if you have any questions just ask...if I don't answer right away you can PM me and I will get an email letting me know

...Brad also made this video

 

Thanks, I use those to start my led fishing lights on my boat. Automobiles also use them for the starter, but are put under the hood so you don't know about them.

 

Let me know if you need help with it

 

Thanks, I will.

 

The starter shows continuity to ground because that is the circuit - in other words, the current goes into the starter, through the armature, and returns to ground via the starter's case. Quite normal.

The starter likely has permanent magnets under the "skin" that act as the field for the armature, hence the magnetism. One good reason not to hit the starter with a hammer. The magnets are brittle, and will break, becoming useless.

I don't remember if you actually have 12 volts on the solenoid terminal. If not, then you may need the relay mentioned, or have a bad switch.

If you have 12 volts to the solenoid coil, a good ground, and a good solenoid, it should pull in. One of these three things is missing.

 

O.K. , I am going to try a new wire direct from the battery hot post direct to the white wire terminal on the solenoid.
Any way, the relay would be a good thing for anyone to use.

 

Okay guys,
Fcubman was right. The breakdown in the wires is the problem. Straight wire from starter to small terminal on solenoid worked . Am going to put relay on now. Thanks again

 

Glad you got it!

 

If wired correctly the safeties should still be in the circuit that uses the additional relay. If there is any problem with them the relay that you are adding may not get energized (just like starter solenoid wasn't). I once had a no close solenoid (new one acted same). I had the 12v on the white wire but there was not sufficient current passing along with the voltage. In my case it was a bad internal connection from B term to S terminal of the keyswitch.
Adding the relay may work because it may take less current to close than the starter solenoid.

 

UPDATE:
Added relay and ended up with same problem. Went over wiring again, reinstalled relay. now have solenoid clicking in but no power to starter. Wire from switch to solenoid has full 12 volts.
Remove relay and rechecked wiring on tractor.All checks good. Reinstalled relay, solenoid still clicks but no power to starter. Got to be a Gremlin somewhere. Jumper wire from positive battery cable to small terminal on solenoid and it kicks right in.Retest ignition switch and it still checks good. Put it back on and everything works properly----? It's working right now so I am going to leave it alone and see how long it works. Thanks guys.

 

Good work! Sounds like there was a flakey connection somewhere.

 

Have a question related to all this. Have a similar tractor Sears GT/18 917.257061. Can't start it either. Looking to figure out where the safety switches are that are mentioned in the manual. You said that you bypassed them and I saw someone else mention that they cleaned them. Can you give me direction or a picture as to where to locate them on the tractor? I would suspect they would be in a similar location to yours. Any help would be appreciated!!!

 

Please understand that any discussion of bypassing safety switches is strictly for the purpose of trouble shooting....any bypass is to be reconnected properly for your own safety...any discussion of bypassing safety switches for convenience is not permitted on the site

 

I don't want to bypass the safety switches, I just want to locate them, clean them or replace and get them working! I just don't know where they are at?

 

Common areas for safety switches that may need cleaning or tighening of loose connections(that I know of) are:
-under the operator seat, spring loaded to show presence/absence of driver
-at the pivot end of the 'engage' lever for the mowing deck
-operated by the brake/clutch pedal mechanism

First will kill the engine when no one is in the seat EXCEPT if the parking brake is applied AND the engage lever has been disengaged.
IOW, no running with the seat empty and the blades engaged
Third will disable the starter, preventing the engine from starting unless the pedal is depressed(and held).
I think the starter may also be disabled if the PTO(blade) is engaged.
Obviously you will have to figure out what you have and where it is located. The switches are there for good reason, and should not really be bypassed as what YOU know about your mower, "That NO ONE ELSE will ever operate..." will not be known by someone besides yourself who eventually WILL operate... Murphy was an optimist, Stuff Happens, etc etc etc.
If you don't have a copy of the owners manual, you should be able to find a manual in PDF format that is very close(very similar model numbers) that describes the switches and the schematic.
tom

 

If you have 12 volt to the S terminal of the starter, have bench tested the starter all should be well BUT have you checked for the battery ground to the starter? Remember a starter needs a complete circuit to operate. The starter is a high load on the electrical system although the carb solenoid may work a poor connection may not allow the starter to function.

 

I googled your model # and got a full sears manual. It has all the diagrams and part #'s to help you. If you don't have it yet, look it up.

 

Also, your tractor only has a neutral safety switch, and an attachment safety switch. That one would be somewhere that it would be activated when you move the engagement levers.