I think the 22 only came in a twin. You'll need the muffler unless you want to do some fabrication. It's always a good idea to get the pulley with an engine also.
The six pin harness may very well be plug-and-play but it's always best to see where the wires go and make sure they are right before you plug it in and risk getting it wrong.
It's almost a shame to put a 22 V-Twin on that tractor which is probably a 42 maybe 48 inch cut when a single 17 - 20.5 works just fine. You will notice you will have tons of power though. It will no longer bog down in heavier grass it will just cut through anything. I have owned about 20 of the green Craftsmans and some of the gray and red ones afterwards. For a long time I had only had the overhead valve 14-19. 5 or so horsepower singles. When I came along my first horizontally opposed twin 18 or 19 I was amazed how it would go through any grass and not even slow down.
You will use more fuel though. Don't try to running at a slower than normal operating speed. Not good for cooling or on the engine at all. Since you are re-powering and the throttle has been messed with you should actually get a tach and set the RPM to the correct for the model of engine.
Many of those are 41xxxx engines and are supposed to be running 3450 to 3500 RPMs.

 

Thanks for the reply. A local picker that I know gave me the engine, so that is why I'm swapping they 22 v-twin in. It is still in his mower and is complete. His mower is not worth repairing. Like I said he is a picker and has a lot of stuff.

 

if the newer engine is commin free to u.. that's a great deal.. this will allow u to spend ur $$ on stuff for cables & items u need to make it work right..

since u get the muffler that is one huge hurdle u don't have to mess with..

the wiring part is somethin u can figure out by doin some tracin between the old & new engines..

one thing to watch out for is if the new & old carb has the ABS solenoid on it.. u will need a active power supply from ur IGN switch.. if the old engine had a supply then ur ready to go..

on edit.. the lower crank may b bigger.. the new one may b 1 1/8 diameter where ur old one may b only a 1 inch model.. this may b a problem findin the proper electric clutch or double pulley to fit the new engine..

 

"Many of those are 41xxxx engines" ???

I question the wisdom of trying to fit a V twin in place of a single. IF he has lots of stuff maybe he has 12.5 - 15 or so.

Walt Conner

 

the 22 B & S twin should fit under that hood of a DLT 3000..they r a wide body type hood.. that muffler has 'slip in' ports from the head.. it's not a welded up one like on the Kohler mdels..

 

You just have to just check to see if the crank shaft size and same diameter. I can't remember but the 22 will definitely have a big crankshaft The carb solenoid we're referring to is the ABS anti backfire solenoid. It is spring loaded so when 12 volts is not applied to it when it's not running the spring pushes the plunger up and the tip of it shuts off or attempts to shut off the flow of fuel up through the main jet in the carburetor. They are mainly installed on there to prevent the loud pop after shutdown that can occur when the fuel hits the hot Muffler and then hits the oxygen and ignites.

 

I wish people would give me running 22 horsepower. Last one I had I sold for 250 bucks

 

Just looked it up. Looks like they are all 1 inch by 3 5/32 long.
So that means all of his pulley stuff should fit fine.

 

boy.. ur right on the ball there..

 

I just thought of another thing.. my Scotts 2048 has a 21 hp B & S.. these use a seperate choke & throttle cables.. I think the DLT has just one.. so he'll have to add one in for the choke..

 

Yes. You're right. He can add a single hole one in the dash or do like I did once and put a 6-8 inch piece of cable on it and bend a large finger hook on the end of it and let it sticking up to the side of the engine so you pull it with your finger to choke, start it and push it down.

 

I did the simular swap....Glad the additional choke cable got mentioned...not much else to concern with...unless the exhaust pipes were not from a compatible series Craftsman tractor w/V twin..may look same but be different....Wiring harness will snap together ok...but you will need to add couple feet more of fuel line to reach around eng to other side.

 

This is the tractor I bought.

 

what is on the left side of the rear fender pan.. is it the gas tank gauge..

 

Gas?? We don't need no stinkin gas... Beans beans.. Good for your heart.
I think I might try a propane metered tube into Intake one of these days. Should be able to come up with a needle valve style adjustment for a nozzle or tube so mixture can be fine tuned. Just starting to think out loud, I've seen the adapter kits for generators that are a little metal well the first were plastic and later ones were metal tube that bolts on the throat of the carburetor.
I think I would rather tap a hole into the intake but then you might have an issue with there being a difference being before or after the throttle plate in the carb.
So now that I think about it how do they possibly allow for governor further opening the throttle plate for increased load and get increased fuel to go with it.
Probably a makeshift design that works but not really well.
Ideally you either need pressurize float bowl for it to draw its own amount needed but that would be highly impractical or some sort of pressure regulator that can increase the flow possibly when the vacuum drops slightly if it could compensate quickly enough or the overall best a throttle position sensor and an injector. That would be perfect but that just made it NOT a cheap project.
Guess I'll just have to wait 10 or 15 years for these new fuel injected ones are being junked.
At the rate the quality has been going downhill I might only have to wait 6 or 7.

I'm a patient man though.
Ring ring.. Hello.
Yes, can I speak to Timmy?
Well, that's a little hard Timmy is only 3 months old.
That's OK. I'll wait.


Man my typos and proofreading is atrocious!
7 edits to get it right.

 

I picked the engine last week. I was mistaken it was not a 22 hp, but a 20 hp. None the less it was free. I hope it runs.

 

I got some time to day to get the engine installed. It bolted right up to the chasis. I had to do some fabrication to ge the exhaust to fit. The harness pluged right in. I had the choke cable ffrom the donor mower and there was spot for it in my mower. So I didn't have to drill a hole. I didn't have enough fuel line to see if she would fire up.

 

This engine doesn't have an external oil filter. Is there a filter under his cap?

 

no filter under that cap.. u have to go to B & S & get a nipple that the filter will screw onto.. I had to get one for an engine.. they cost like 13$$.. the cap has threads that screw into where u put the nipple.... u can fire up the engine without a filter.. tilt the mower a bit to install the filter mount & filter.. then recheck the oil level after runnin the engine..

 

Interested to see how this works out for you. I've stumbled across a few nice GT's with blown motors and I've considered swapping in a different engine myself.

A free engine would be a nice incentive to try it for sure! :goodl:

 

I'm posting an update with this swap. I finally had some time to get the engine fired up yesterday. It took a litlle effort since this engine probably has been sitting for awhile. It did start, but ran a little ruff. I'm sure the carb needs some work. So the first question is; are these carbs difficult to remove and rebuild?

Secondly, the mower would not move when put in gear. I know the drive belt is pretty loose. My guess is that with the swap, since the engine is back a inch or so because of mounting. I need to change the drive belt. Or is there any adjustment? What is the best way to get the correct size belt?

 

the crankshaft position should have been in the same location for both motors..the drive belt should get tight if u used all the pullies from the old engine.. check ur belt routing.. also check to see if u left the park brake on.. the belt will b loose when in park..

now the rough runnin may b due to bad plugs.. put new ones in.. the red model I had & found a 20 hp for it had a sputter when runnin it.. I checked the ABS solenoid.. but in the process I lost that lil spring... it went flying in my shop.. have yet to find it.. so I found out I could remove the pin part as they were made in 2 pieces.. I just left it out & put the solenoid back on.. after doin this that engine ran perfect.. &&&& it didn't backfire any too..

 

Most of those have two screws that holds the float bowl on and the solenoid screws on but there is like a nut on the inside of bowl like a little foot inside.
The jet is in the middle of it. I usually run it at full speed and hold palm of hand over the intake several times to check it out especially at higher RPMs that will cause it to suck pretty hard through the jet and sometimes can clear out small clogs.
They plugs first. Simply one being dropped and make it misfire. If not drop the bowl and clean things out well.

 

There are 2 screws that I thought held the float bowl on. I could smell the stale gas in the carb when it was sitting on the stand in my garage. That bowl is probably pretty gunked up. I guess I'll just pull the bowl and clean it.

 

the other thing I didn't mention was that it seemed to crank over very tight. I guess it needs the valves adjusted. To adjusted the valves do I bring it to TDC on the compression stroke and then 1/4 trun? .005 clearance? Is it the same for both sides?