It is a Delco Remy Model 1101873. Can I use another/different model Delco in its place?

 

actually i would try it and see at least the bushings and bearings is cheaper than another starter motor /generator
calvin

 

Can you call these guys? http://www.mfgsupply.com/SmEngStarterCC.html

 

Oh, ya,. I would give it a try. You allready got it apart, a few bucks for bushings/bearings, and your set. I bet it works.

 

QUOTE: (pic 1 brass bushing actually has hole in bottom side)

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The hole you see may be for a felt wick oil system that were found on starters and generators of that era.

Also from what I can see in the pics the mica needs to be cut between the commutator bars on the armature. With a little skill that can be accomplished with a hack saw blade after the set in the teeth is ground off.

A starter/generator shop can tell you rather quickly if it is worth rebuilding by doing a few simple tests.

 

As Maybar said I'd check with a starter repair shop if you have one in your area,also ask them for an estimate before leaving it with them as some shops work can get a little pricey.

 

As long as it is apart might as well clean it all up. As Ingersol said cut the mica to below the surface of the copper on the commutator. Get some fine sand or emory paper and lightly clean the surface of the copper too. This will make sure that as much current gets to the starter winding as possible.

Information: this unit doesn't have magnets those are pole pieces for the field winding.

If I recall the starter/generator always sounds like it isn't turning the motor over fast enough. I have had a 16 hp 990 from new. The first couple compression strokes always sound slow.

 

New Bushing, new bearing and new brushes .. $12.95

Ask this guy if they fit your Model, I am pretty sure they will. :goodl:


http://cgi.ebay.com/Delco-Remy-Gene...QQcategoryZ58180QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem

 

Well I just ordered the rebuild kit from ebay, $20. Hopefully that will do the trick. I am going to get toothbrush and rag to clean out all the dust and crud and clean up the communicator with some emery cloth. The grooves in the communicator feel pretty good, so I figure clean them up and see what happens.

 

You and your starters, buddy.............


he he he....still have not gotten around to buying one for the Simplicity I got from you. Got a belly hitch, thouh, for a snow blower and may have found a blower, too! Mower is next.

 

Yeah, I am definitely not batting 1000 when it comes to starters.

 

I happen to have a starter/generator for sale if you hear of anyone looking for one.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at verizon dot net

 

Well Walt, well see how my fix works in a few days. I may be in the market for one yet.

 

I was going through starters every year for the watercraft. Had a few rebuilt and they lasted a week or so of racing. Save you money and get a new unit. Just my two cents.

 

kwwolfe I know a guy in lehighton pa that rebuilds them, make em look brand new he does a lot of work for us, you should see his electric truck he drives around town.

 

that all depends on who's doing the rebuild, this guy does a nice job and I can't remember having one go bad from him. if you live in the area his name is don barry and he's in the book Barry's gen & alt repair.

 

As already said, cleam it good, polish the segments with fine emory cloth, clean between the segments, if you have a ohm meter check continuity between the segments, "there should be none open" change the bushings and end spacers. Install new brushes, and you have a rebuilt starter. If you find an open between any segments, it needs to go to a shop to be rewound or repaired.:thThumbsU

 

Might be off base but that starter looks like the one I relpaced for a guy and the real problem was the valves on the over head style engine were not adjusted up thus the compression release was not working. just a thought.

 

A starter/generator original equipment on an OHV engine?

Walt Conner

 

"I did not think that this Briggs model had compression release."

Well the flat heads did not have a mechanical compression release, they did however, have an "Easy Spin" cam shaft grind which held the Intake valve open for an extended period of time which did relieve compression to aid in starting. That had minimal affect at operating speed.

Walt Conner

 

I got the rebuild kit for my starter/gen tonight. Only problem is, I can't get the bushing out. The seller suggested using a bolt, thred it in and pull it out. Problem is I don't have the right size bolt. I'll have to get one tomorrow.

Well Walt, I think you may be on to something here. I replaced the points and condensor and pulled the spark plug out. I spun a bolt into the flywheel shaft and turned it over using a drill. I got good spark, yeah!!!!! I decided to put the plug in and see what would happen. The drill even had a hard time turning it over. It turned too slow to get spark.:banghead3

Question is what do I do next? Assuming that the intake valve gap is too big, I guess I should take off the valve cover and check the lash. Does anyone know what the gap should be set at for the intake valve? Any other suggestions?

 

Would not be a bad idea to check the valve clearance. Give you a known baseline for mainance, but I doupt thats your starting problem.

 

What else could it be then? Actually, if the crankcase vent were not venting properly, could the vacum created make it even harder on the comrpession stroke? I guess I will know better once I take the cover off. I used a corded drill. I would think that it would have been plenty powerful to turn the engine over.

So now I know I can get spark, just not under compression!:maddd:

 

Watch if you buy a used starter/generator... Some turn CW. and some CCW. Also the torque output is much different on different models...

 

OK, I got a few minutes to get out to the garage. I took off the valve cover and measured the intake gap at .015. The B&S spec says .007-.009. I am under the impression that the only way to change the lash on these valves is by grinding them.

Since the gap is too big, does this mean I should be shopping for a new (longer) valve?

 

I did not read all the posts but I have hands on input same engine, book says 007 & 009. I tried that it helped but not enough then I found a post on this board that said go tighter, I went to 006 & 008 that fixed mine I have mowed about 30 pawns since. To adjust the rockers you need to loosen the Allen screw then turn the larger nut tighter on the feller gauge until it feels quite tight then re tighten the Allen screw to lock so it holds the adjustment. There is no machine work.

Phil

 

I did not see where you posted any model numbers, type numbers, but guessing from what you have said, I assume the old B&S is a cast iron 32 series.

"Since the gap is too big, does this mean I should be shopping for a new (longer) valve?"

Well depends, IF there is enough face left on the valve, grinding the valve may bring it to within specs, also, the valve seat can be ground, again, IF there is enough metal there. Valve face and valve seat face may need to be narrowed, ground at a different angle, if width of seal area is outside spec after grinding. I didn't look these up. You'll want to do both valves if you are in there.

The starter/generator was generally slow on the take off on these engines, especially after a few years. I can not say for certain that reducing the excess clearance you posted will definitely solve your problem but the excess clearance certainly is not helping the situation and in my experience, it has been enough to cause cranking problems.

I suggest jumping directly to the starter with GOOD cables from a known strong battery, car/truck, and seeing if it will roll over better after you get your starter back together and before tearing down the engine. This will give you some idea if perhaps the battery cables may not be making good contact, your existing battery is strong enough, solenoid is making good contact, etc.

Walt conner

 

Walt,
I did jump it from the starter and got the same result. I am going to try and clean up the posts on the starter when I put it back on, however when it hit the compression stroke, it would stop, then in about another 1-2 seconds would turn it over the compression stroke.

As for grinding the valve, I don't have the ability to machine the block, so it looks like I will be buying a new one. I found one on ebay for $25. Hopefully that will help some.

As a side question, does an electronic ignition do a better job firing at very low RPMs. I would think that since the charge is coming off the battery, and the points are what times it, that it would be fairly easy to bypass the magneto and put in an coil wired to the battery. What do you think.