I wouldn't think it's more than a couple amps at most for a normally functioning PTO. Just enough to hold the coil. Maybe someone can throw an amp meter across theirs to see.

Joel

 

Ogura PTO clutches - used in some cub products - have a power draw of 50-60 watts at 12 VDC when engaged (4 - 5 amps).

 

Ballpark was all I needed, thanks very much!

 

unless you are adding tons of lights, most things are momentary loads. my electric sleeve hitch can draw as much as 30A at full load, but it is only for a few seconds. the battery helps supply the extra current the alternator cannot, and once the draw is removed the alternator recharges the battery. so it depends on wha tyou need to use together and how long each will be a draw. wire everything to be powered from the battery(fused properly of course), or at least thru relays which are wired to the battery, that way you don't pull JUST from the alternator.

 

I am an electrical engineer by degree and profession (automotive-related). I know what I'm doing, I just didn't know the draw of the intermittent loads like the PTO clutch. Need to know so I can minimize my fusing layout. I can put my peak-holding meter in the PTO circuit, just figured I'd ask first to see if anyone knew.

Most of the loads will not be intermittent. A pair of 500 lumen LED lights on the snowthrower auger housing, 1000 lumen LED reverse light, Powerlet outlet below the seat for heated clothing. I'll have to check, but I think my heated pants draw about 3.5 amps on high and the vest is 4.5 amps or so on high. Also putting a Spal electric fan in for the hydro, which draws about 2.5 amps in free air (no static pressure). That'll probably be switchable or PWM-driven since I won't need it much in the winter. Might put it on a PWM driver with thermostat, if I can figure out where to put a temperature sensor.

The heated clothing is the main issue at the moment. I can do without it, but it'll make me want to buy the Berco snow cab which I don't really want to spend money on at the moment. And I'd probably still want the heated pants.

 

lol, you could always put a tray on the back and throw and extra battery or two on them. run the clothes off those batteries. reduces the draw on teh tractor AND adds weight for traction!

 

At the moment I'm trying to avoid weight on the rear axle. Mostly because the SLTX1050 has .75" axles. I have wheel weights and a local shop is going to fill my Turf Tamers (which will be wearing chains in the winter) with Rim Guard. Second set of wheels is in the works, so I can leave the chains on the set with the Turf Tamers and just use them in the winter. My mind might change come winter though, since the front-mounted tank puts a lot of weight in the front. You are correct that a pair of 70Ah batteries would put a decent amount of weight in the rear.

For those interested, the best LED lights I've found for the price are the SoundOff. The 500 lumen square ones draw 1.3 amps each. That's a decent amount less current than the stock headlights, which are prone to blowing on the LTX tractors (I'm guessing it's particularly bad when snowthrowing since the housings aren't sealed). Since I haven't mounted a snowthrower yet, I'm basing my decision to use auger-mounted lights on my experiences with my old Craftsman, where the headlights never failed but weren't all that effective with the auger and chute in front of them.
I never need headlights for mowing, but snow is a different story; daylight is much more scarce in the winter here, and I don't have the option of waiting for the weekend if the snow prevents me from going to work.