See if this helps.

 

Just watched the video. Looking at how thick you made those pads i will definately order new pads and space em out a little as a trial. Alot of videos i watched showed pads much thinner than what i have and they would say they are fine, but i think your solution is worth a try. Other than i will not be making any pads.

 

I am going to guess you pads are to thin to work properly.
I cut another metal spacer to put behind the transmission side pad and had like new brakes again.

 

I did not measure the pads thickness with my calipers so i cant give actual data. However they look really close to the same thickness of brand new pads. There was about a 1/32 wear mark on the outter pad from the rotor. I lightly sanded the wear lip off to make it even again. The inner pad had a little less wear. A metal spacer may help since the hole for the inner pad only allows about 1/16 of an inch to protrude out and allow more wear before the rotor is rubbing the metal case.

Not too thin. My main issue is the seal leaks getting grease on the pads. I am hoping that the metal in the homemade pads help some. Haven't tried it out yet.

This was a problem when i tore it all down. There was grease, oil, grass, and whatever else all over the brakes. That has all been cleaned off with degreaser and some brake clean.

That was for the original poster.
If the pads are thick enough to push those pins out to where they need to be to work, that lever should not be hitting anything.
If the pads are to thin, you could rotate that lever farther than the pedal will move it and still not stop.

This is why i wondered if there should be some spacer between the caliper and the apply arm. From the fully released resting position the arm is pulled forward by the spring and rests on the caliper bolt hole so arm is approx at the 2 oclock position. When pedal is pushed the arm rotates toward the rear and before it reaches the 12 oclock position it digs into the caliper preventing it from rotating further. It will rotate further if I loosten the nut in the center of the caliper but like i said above this no longer applies enough pressure on the pins.

Just general talk now.
I am out of town till thursday so i cant provide more detailed info. I do have the pictures of the caliper torn apart. Not sure if that will help anything. The setup shown below does not look like the replacement parts i find online. If i can figure this out i am gonna order a whole brake setup and new pads just so i can finish this thing up before spring hits.

 

Not too thin. My main issue is the seal leaks getting grease on the pads. I am hoping that the metal in the homemade pads help some. Haven't tried it out yet.

 

That was for the original poster.
If the pads are thick enough to push those pins out to where they need to be to work, that lever should not be hitting anything.
If the pads are to thin, you could rotate that lever farther than the pedal will move it and still not stop.

 

Is that everything that you have for brake pads?
Bottom picture 2'oclock position I see a pad and steel back plate.
In the stock from factory condition there should be a pad in a recess in the transmission housing.
Then the steel plate goes in the caliper first for the pins to push on and the pad goes in second.
So that is two pads, one steel plate total.

When I reworked my brakes, the pads were worn some. So I made another steel plate just like the stock one and put it in the transmission recess first, then pad on that. In the caliper I reassembled in stock form. Brakes worked great.

PS mine is a 2000 GT, but the brakes are the same thing basically, but I do see two springs I do not have.
Also tighten the caliper bolt to put more pressure on the caliper pins, then it won't have to rotate the caliper arm so far.

 

I do have the back pad also. I had reinstalled it and the rotor when this pic was taken. I did lose 1 of the pins though. I may find it someday but I think for now i am just gonna order a new pin and a new set of pads. As far as the sprigs.. The one is the spring that attaches from the front caliper bolt to the apply arm. It returns it to its forward position when brakes released. I see that spring on most setups. The other spring was on the center caliper bolt between the 2 slide pins and was between the caliper and apply arm when I 1st tore them apart. I could not find this on any other video or diagram of the brakes so i am unsure if it should be there or not.

 

I noticed the springs too. I only have one that holds the brake lever open, I'm sure it's not OEM. The manual shows no springs.

 

I don't even have one to hold brake lever.
The only spring on my brakes is on the actuator rod between the lever and adjusting nut.
Compressing the spring is what applies the brake.

 

that big bushing on front mounting bolt is new to me. Looks like it's stopping the forward motion of the lever. I have an lt4000, going to see if it has that bushing. Possibly bushing should be on rear mounting bolt?

 

OK.. I worked on the brakes this weekend and low and behold some of you were spot on. The thickness of new pads and some home made spacers made a huge difference and it now stops. However it kinda locks up now. When i apply full brake I need to rock the mower backwards and I hear the brake release. I may just need to loosen the center caliper nut or loosen the nut on the rod that pushed the caliper arm. Pretty sure I am in the home stretch with the mower Itself. Now onto the deck which has provided its own problems but I should probably start a new post for it and not post multiple issues here.

 

I am going to say you need to tighten the center bolt. You are probably turning the lever far enough that the pins are on top of the high spots when you stop. If it stopped with the pins still on the ramp part of the lever it would release by it's self.
Poorly adjusted worn out air brakes would do the same thing, it was called camming over. That center bolt is not meant to be used to adjust the brakes. I have never turned that bolt in over 20 years of owning my tractor. And I have replaced the brake pucks several times. Adjust with the nut on the brake arm.

 

Dug RED out after a two Month rest after his winter refresh to knock some clover down.

 

Hey Larry, was there a noticeable improvement in braking?

Also, I saw you use the calipers after you thinned downed your DIY brake pads. What was the final thickness?

Mike