I use a table grinding wheel or a small handheld to get it perfect and balanced.

 

I either use the Bridgeport with a 20 degree tapered cutter or usually I drop them at the local mower shop and for 5 bucks they sharpen them perfect every time.

 

I've used a pedestal grinder years ago, but too easy to burn the blade and take the temper out.

I have used one, too. Just fill a soup can with water and cool it every 2 or 3 passes. It will be warm but no where near enough to lose temper. If you have to restore the angle, a file will take forever. Lately I have just used a 4" angle grinder but the same cooling method.

 

:howdy: I take mine to a friend of mine who is a Simpilicity Dealer and for 10$ he sharpens them. :smilie_fl

 

Small angel grinder. I swip the blade from the inside out in the same manner every time. I never do any back and forth motions and I always count and do equal passes on both sides. With that technique the balance stays pretty much equal.

7

 

Bench grinder, take your time and it won't heat up, there is no hurry.

My grinder is variable speed.

 

4 inch right angle grinder with a sanding disk on it.It'll sharpen without taking a lot off and won't heat the blade.

 

I dropped 2 sets if blades off at the hardware store to have them sharpened. Picked them up yesterday and about had a heart attack when he said that will be $58. I could have bought a set of gator blades for less then that.


Sent from the MTF Free App

 

I saw a good how to sharpen rite up here at mtf the other day now I cant find it. Ill look more and post it when I do.
Wow 58 ? Did they hold a gun on you when they said the cost. Lol you were robbed.

 

I have never found a stone for a pedestal grinder that will remove metal fast and not overheat the blade.

A 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a good brand name metal cutting wheel will quickly sharpen a blade, and it is almost impossible to overheat the blade.

Those wheels are VERY different than stones for a pedestal.

I think a belt sander might be the perfect answer, but, I ain't got one,,,,,, :crybaby:

 

last time I used a 5 inch angle grinder and a flap disk, (I hope they are called a flap disk where you are, but thats what they are called here, they are more gentle than a normal grinding disk.)

Had the deck off, upside down on a workbench, sharpening the blades was really easy.

then I cleaned off the rest of the dried grass, wire brushed the deck and painted the underneath. That was when the deck was 8 (Mowing) hrs old.

About to do the same thing again, deck is now 25hrs.


I want to save it from rusting as I have hit a few ricks and lots of sticks.

Can you buy the john deere yellow paint?
(Last time I used a killrust (Thats the brand name here in aust) yellow that was fairly close tot he colour but that was underneath and didnt really matter.)

Peter,
iPad with IOS 7.1 using Tapatalk HD

 

There is a paint brand here in the US called Rustoleum, and they make green and yellow paint colors that they claim on the label match the John Deere colors. You can also buy the green and yellow paints directly from a John Deere dealer here int he US, in spray cans and in regular cans that you would use with you own sprayer.

 

I've always used my bench grinder. They do get hot but I've never had a problem with any of the blades.

 

I personally don't like the bench grinder. It's a little harder for me to maintain the correct angle and it throws sparks and dust all over me. I have used an angle grinder and a bench vise forever. If they're really beat up I switch sides now and then so they don't overheat.

It's almost to the point that it's not worth sharpening them anymore.. New blades for my ZTR are 7 bucks each from my local dealer. You can't beat the edge and balance of a new blade, IMO. I might sharpen them once or twice but once they're really beat up I just replace them.

 

I've always used a file which just takes a few strokes to get sharp blades. Then I mow my grass at 3 1/2 inches and do not hit rocks and other crap like those doing the root mow jobs.
Even on the heavy X mark blades just a few passes is all it takes.

I hope you told the hard wear store to keep the sharp blades and went and bought some new ones?
Guess that proves to know the cost up front.