Could that be the "kill" wire? When you mean pushed in on the throttle, is that the lowest setting? My guess is that grounds the spark signal, killing the spark. Disconnect it and see if it will spark.
Is your plug good? What about the wire?

 

It's a Tecumseh motor my bad.
Yes I am assuming it's the kill wire, like you say when the throttle is at the lowest point it hits and makes contact which grounds it, correct? That's why I asked if there should be continuity to ground?
OK took things apart and I am getting grounded at the points.
Two wires from the flywheel magnets, one goes to the points-other is grounded.
Wire from condenser goes to points. Wire from key switch that stops at linkage also goes to points.
I get continuity to ground where wires connect to points, is this normal? The grounding is coming from one of the two wires from the magnet, the one that is grounded.

 

On this motor under the flywheel is there a spring loaded contact that rides on a pin that rides on the cam shaft? If there is, is the gap setting between it and the condenser correct. If it's anything like my briggs, there are two wire attached to the spring on the condenser. One goes to the kill switch on the throttle plate and the other is attached to the coil.
At 200 ohms, if you put the black probe on the meter to the spark plug connector and the red to the ground are you getting any resistance. If it constantly read 0.0 then the coil is bad IF you rule out any unintended grounding.

 

Thanks for the reply's.
I have cleaned every place a wire touches anything, grounds, post on the points as well as the points and so on. We now get spark. I tried to clean the carb but it was one ball of rust inside so I found a new one. The unit starts one pull and runs great, my problem now is I don't remember the linkage. oops!
It idles great and revs to high to fast, It's either idle or full open just by touching the throttle. It seems as soon as the throttle is moved the spring pulls the throttle wide open.
Here is the picture of the linkage.

 

I see a spring dangling loose. It looks to me like a governor spring. Will that spring reach the governor arm? There is no tension on the throttle plate so the will run high. The governor spring keeps it from over reving but opens the throttle plate more when under load.
Can you take the muffler off and take more of a straight on picture from the governor arm to the carburator?

 

I'll do that in the morning.
I kinda forgot where the spring goes. If I hook it to the arm on the carb as soon as you up the throttle it pulls it wide open that being my problem.

 

What model and serial is the Tiller itself?

 

Ariens Model RT7020, the sub model I have no idea the sticker has been gone for years.

As an HVAC mechanic my entire life I never understood why mfg. put the model and serial numbers on a piece of tinfoil that only last a few years in the best of conditions.

 

See if this helps

It doesn't show the throttle cable. If it still runs high you might need to adjust the high speed adjusting srew and/or loosen the bolt holding the cable and moving it.

 

Wow this is great. I even have the bar wrong, it goes from the bottom I have It on the top. I'll try this as soon as I get home.
Thanks so much!

 

If the bar you are talking about is the Governor lever it looks like it is bent. If this is a different carb than original yoiu may have to make some adjustments.

 

OK found a spring at a local small engine repair shop and installed it today. I have much better control of the throttle now, not like new but controllable. I'm sure there is some adjustments but as long as I am the user I know it's limitations.
Thank you very much because I wouldn't have been ablr to do this without your input!!!!!!!!

 

Don't you love it when something you work on roars to life. Music to my ears. If the diagram is like your carb you have several adjustments. Didn't you say you put a new carb on it? You'll have to adjust the jet. Turn it clockwise until is starts to bog then turn it counterclockwise. It will idle up then start to bog. Find the halfway point.
Move your throttle lever as low as it will go before it hits the kill switch. Adjust your idle to run as low as it can and still be smooth. Then slide it up before it hits the choke. Adjust your high speed screw to be a little higher than what you think you need. If your governor is operating correctly it will keep it from overreving but still keep it from stalling when you put a load on it.