[Milenko]

If it was mine I would put the filters in and run it. See how it responds.

That fluid doesnt look good but the filter is doing its job.

Not sure how much experience you have with things like this but a transaxle is pretty complex. Not sure how far the average guy would get looking at one.

I've never been inside a hydro trans, but I'm pretty handy with mechanical things. I've rebuilt an engine or two as well as the transfer case and rear diff in my Durango, so I could probably work my way through it.

I'm wondering if anything is actually serviceable inside - I asked the parts guy at my local dealer about servicing them and he said they don't do anything to them beyond changing fluid and filters. If that doesn't fix it, then they just replace the entire trans axle.

 

[rrmccabe]

Yes the transmission is totally servicable. Its a good unit but as I said its pretty complex. Probably cheaper for a dealer to replace one than do a major overhaul.

I will post a picture in a minute for you.

 

[Milenko]

I have a thought. Perhaps, somehow, the transmission got dirt in it, and it has been eating up the transmission. The previous owner knew this and sold it to let someone else worry about it. I don't know what else could cause it.

Could be, or maybe someone topped in off with some other kind of fluid. The used stuff that came out does smell pretty funky.

I'm off to get a gallon of some cheap 10w-30. I think I'll try and clean the internal filter up to get the metal bits off of it and then reinstall with the 10w oil. I'll save the new one for after it's been flushed.

The parts guy at the dealer said I got the last of each of those filters, so even if I wanted to throw away another $60, I'd have to wait a while until they ordered new ones in.

 

[rrmccabe]

The service manual is pretty decent for these. I am sure a guy with your skills could probably rebuild one.

I am guessing the funky smell comes from being overheated.

In case you dont know, pulling the tunnel and rear fenders off one of these things is pretty easy. I can have my seat,fenders and tunnel off in about 5 minutes. Makes some things much easier to work on.

 

[Forward Look]

It's very common to use some kerosene in automotive transmissions as a flushing/cleaning agent. It does have lubrication qualities, and dissolves slude and deposits. My old MoPars actually suggested adding a pint of kerosene in the winter to help the cold shifting properties.

I've used kero/diesel for years myself as a flushing/cleaning agent in a variety of old cars and small engines. I rarely run it 'straight' -- mostly I use a 50/50 or 75/25 blend of fluid to kerosene, and run the engine or trans for about 5 minutes under NO load, and at gentle idle. I've never had a problem, and it has helped a great many old transmissions come back from the dead for me.

I'll be using a kerosene blend when I install my diff-lock trans, just to help flush everything out.

By the way -- Milenko -- it's not uncommon to see some small chips like that inside of the trans. Not great, but not uncommon. It has a filter to stop things like that from doing damage by getting sucked in. Even new automobiles will often have little 'dust' or chips in the trans pan. Gear steel is pretty brittle, and lots of little casting flash and other things break off with first use.

If you keep getting lots of metal in the filter, then there may be a problem -- but I agree with the others in that it may be cheaper to get a used eBay transmission than renuild your current one.

 

[KATT]

Wait ! Let's keep in order before replacing and rebuilding, start with the cleaning first ( it's got to be cheaper ) These are tough trannys and a couple of flushes first can't seem to hurt if you are ready to replace it anyhow.

Comment worth 2 cents :bananapow

 

[Weaverama]

Guys, I hate putting a cloud on this but 300 hours on an old, pre GX345. is really, really low. If I were to guess, I would bet the hour meter had been out of operation for quite awhile. My ground wire was a bear to keep grounded and my meter over the last 14 years work intermittently from day one. This tractor sounds like it has some miles on it, and some poor maintenance. Maybe this is a new thread, but how much do you guys trust these old meters?!?!

Milenko - Keep the faith man, these are great tracrors and worth the trouble to keep running and hand down to your kids. I just would not trust the finicky hour meters when buying one.

 

[Milenko]

Guys, I hate putting a cloud on this but 300 hours on an old, pre GX345. is really, really low. If I were to guess, I would bet the hour meter had been out of operation for quite awhile. My ground wire was a bear to keep grounded and my meter over the last 14 years work intermittently from day one. This tractor sounds like it has some miles on it, and some poor maintenance. Maybe this is a new thread, but how much do you guys trust these old meters?!?!

Milenko - Keep the faith man, these are great tracrors and worth the trouble to keep running and hand down to your kids. I just would not trust the finicky hour meters when buying one.

Thanks for the words of warning. I totally understand your point about the hour meter. It's funny how the wires to those meters always seem to end up "falling off." Having said that, there's nothing to indicate that something like that happened with this tractor. While it's clear the fluid has never been changed and has probably been overheated, the rest of the tractor seems pretty cherry and I don't doubt the accuracy of the meter. The bottom of the deck still has almost all of it's paint, so it couldn't have mowed all that much grass.

It ended up being pretty late till I got back from the store tonight, so I'm leaving this until tomorrow. Will keep this thread updated as I make further progress.

-Jeremy

 

[rrmccabe]

I missed the part about 300 hours.

So I would say either the hours are not correct or there is something bad going on inside that transaxle !

 

[Mcgee10]

So, just to clarify, your suggestion is to refill it with 10w-30 and drive it around for 5 mins or so. Then drain the oil, change the filters again, and refill with JD20? Just want to make sure it's OK to run the hydro with 10w-30 for that short time.

Your worried about running it with 10w 30w motor oil. Look at what you were running it with. After you flush the tranny and refill it with JD20 and new filters I would change it again after about 5 hour of run time. There is no way that got that dirty in 300hr no way. IMO that tractor was one of the best tractor JD ever made for it's size. You take good care of it and it will take care of you.

 

[AllThumbs]

I have a couple of questions.
Is that a one gallon container with only two quarts of oil?
Why isn't the oil stain on the rag the same color as the oil in the container.

Are you sure your not showing us the engine oil?
I have my suspicions on this one.

 

[Milenko]

So I woke up this morning ready to run out to the garage and get to it. While eating breakfast my lovely wife comes up from the basement and says "there's something wrong with the clothes washer." DOH! Took the washer apart and found a paperclip lodged in the water pump. How the heck did that get there?!?!? Put it back together and all is well.

Finally made it to the garage after lunch. Cleaned the internal filter as best I could and then filled the trans with 4 qts 10w-30 and then topped off with some kero (~1/2 qt) for good measure. Started it up and could tell thing were getting better immediately. The power steering was much smoother and nice and quiet, and the hydro pump was hardly making any noise at all. Drove it nice and slow around the lawn for about 10 mins and then pulled it back in the garage.

At this point I continued the trans service. Drained the oil, was still pretty funky but much better than the first time. Went with rmmccabe's suggestion and pulled the rear fenders - much easier to change the filter and refill the trans that way. Once the service was done I took it out for another drive. Power steering is silky smooth now and the hydro pump makes almost no noise. I can literally steer with one finger!

While I had the deck off I decided to flip it over and check the blades. Good thing too, because it looks like they've never been sharpened. Would probably be better of with butter knives instead!! Sharpened the blades up and removed the chunk of rope from around the middle hub and it looks like I'm ready for spring!!!

Will keep you guys updated once the grass starts growing, but at this point it looks like problem solved. Hopefully whatever damage was done to the trans at this point isn't enough to make it explode. I have a pretty small lot for this tractor and it's almost all flat, so it should have an easy life from here on out. I plan on changing the fluid and filters again in another 5 or 10 hours so I can see what they look like at that point.

Many thanks to all who shared info and opinions on how to proceed. I owe you guys a beer or four!!!

-Jeremy

 

[Mcgee10]

So I woke up this morning ready to run out to the garage and get to it. While eating breakfast my lovely wife comes up from the basement and says "there's something wrong with the clothes washer." DOH! Took the washer apart and found a paperclip lodged in the water pump. How the heck did that get there?!?!? Put it back together and all is well.

Finally made it to the garage after lunch. Cleaned the internal filter as best I could and then filled the trans with 4 qts 10w-30 and then topped off with some kero (~1/2 qt) for good measure. Started it up and could tell thing were getting better immediately. The power steering was much smoother and nice and quiet, and the hydro pump was hardly making any noise at all. Drove it nice and slow around the lawn for about 10 mins and then pulled it back in the garage.

At this point I continued the trans service. Drained the oil, was still pretty funky but much better than the first time. Went with rmmccabe's suggestion and pulled the rear fenders - much easier to change the filter and refill the trans that way. Once the service was done I took it out for another drive. Power steering is silky smooth now and the hydro pump makes almost no noise. I can literally steer with one finger!

While I had the deck off I decided to flip it over and check the blades. Good thing too, because it looks like they've never been sharpened. Would probably be better of with butter knives instead!! Sharpened the blades up and removed the chunk of rope from around the middle hub and it looks like I'm ready for spring!!!

Will keep you guys updated once the grass starts growing, but at this point it looks like problem solved. Hopefully whatever damage was done to the trans at this point isn't enough to make it explode. I have a pretty small lot for this tractor and it's almost all flat, so it should have an easy life from here on out. I plan on changing the fluid and filters again in another 5 or 10 hours so I can see what they look like at that point.

Many thanks to all who shared info and opinions on how to proceed. I owe you guys a beer or four!!!

-Jeremy

After you sharpen the blades did you grease the deck spindles if not do so. I grease mine about 3 times a season. And you might just all well change the engine oil and filter and air filter then you will start fresh and new. I'm glad to here your hydro and steering is better.

 

[Weaverama]

Did somebody say Beer?

 

[Milenko]

After you sharpen the blades did you grease the deck spindles if not do so. I grease mine about 3 times a season. And you might just all well change the engine oil and filter and air filter then you will start fresh and new. I'm glad to here your hydro and steering is better.

Didn't see any grease at all, they're bone dry. So are the deck wheels and the steering spindles. I'm planning on a full service once it starts getting nice out. Should have done it all today while doing the trans, but ran out of time with all the other stuff happening this weekend.