I am installing a front mount hydraulic on my 175 MF its a 16 GPM at 2000RPM so at 1500 It should be around 10 or 12 GPM . . I have wondered about tapping into the tractors fluid but I am concerned about heat, condensation an contamination . So that means I've got to build a reservoir because there is know where to buy anything that will work that I can find , unless you hang something out in the way. I have not been able to find hardly any pictures to get any ideals from . It has a Kelly loader on it ,do any of you know of any sights that would give any details on a conversions like this.
hydraulic rservoirs
Travelingman
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I am installing a front mount hydraulic on my 175 MF its a 16 GPM at 2000RPM so at 1500 It should be around 10 or 12 GPM . . I have wondered about tapping into the tractors fluid but I am concerned about heat, condensation an contamination . So that means I've got to build a reservoir because there is know where to buy anything that will work that I can find , unless you hang something out in the way. I have not been able to find hardly any pictures to get any ideals from . It has a Kelly loader on it ,do any of you know of any sights that would give any details on a conversions like this.
If the pump is for a loader, the reservoir doesn't need to be all that large, about 4-5 gallons. If it's for a hydraulic motor, that requires a bit more for dealing with the heat generated, about 12 gallons.
The reservoir on mobile equipment should be sized for the maximum flow of the pump at WOT, even though you may not be operating at that speed. For cylinders like on a loader, 25-30% of maximum pump output is usually adequate for the reservoir size. For stationary systems, as found in industrial use, the requirement is more like double the max pump flow, but there is no shortage of real estate in industry for large reservoirs.
Here are some reservoirs. Others are available in cylindrical shape that may be easier to install in close quarters, or you can make one to fit available space.
The reservoir on mobile equipment should be sized for the maximum flow of the pump at WOT, even though you may not be operating at that speed. For cylinders like on a loader, 25-30% of maximum pump output is usually adequate for the reservoir size. For stationary systems, as found in industrial use, the requirement is more like double the max pump flow, but there is no shortage of real estate in industry for large reservoirs.
Here are some reservoirs. Others are available in cylindrical shape that may be easier to install in close quarters, or you can make one to fit available space.
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Thanks Tudor the main use will be for the loader moving an stacking round bales an running a round baler , just normal farm work. The tractor holds 8.5 gal an when these tractors were bought equipped with external with the external hydraulics with both pumps internal that is all the fluid they had . I can access this fluid through the drain plugs on transmission an rear end . I am not sure but thought with the fluid constantly circulating it would cause extra condensation an possible ingest dirt an grit through the breather . But that being said John Deere had a lot of front pumps using internal fluid, there capacity was much bigger though. I could put maybe a extra gallon of fluid in an not hurt anything . But the separate tank would be the least risk of causing unintended damage I was thinking 10 minimum an 15 if I can mount it .
If the tractor normally has multiple pumps from the same reservoir, that's all the reservoir needs for size.
If you add a pump and use the drain plug for the supply, install at least a strainer between it and the pump. I would install a filter, but there are 2 schools of thought on that. The wear particles from the gears and bearings settle to the bottom of the case.
Adding an extra gallon to effectively over fill the rear end is not in your best interests. The fluid level is constantly changing with loader operation as the cylinder rods extend and retract, as well as from the heat generated with use. Fill to the proper level with the loader cylinders retracted and call it done.
You will also need a relief valve. If there isn't one in the loader valve set, one needs to be installed immediately after the pump (preferable, if you intend to add additional valve sets at a later date).
If you add a pump and use the drain plug for the supply, install at least a strainer between it and the pump. I would install a filter, but there are 2 schools of thought on that. The wear particles from the gears and bearings settle to the bottom of the case.
Adding an extra gallon to effectively over fill the rear end is not in your best interests. The fluid level is constantly changing with loader operation as the cylinder rods extend and retract, as well as from the heat generated with use. Fill to the proper level with the loader cylinders retracted and call it done.
You will also need a relief valve. If there isn't one in the loader valve set, one needs to be installed immediately after the pump (preferable, if you intend to add additional valve sets at a later date).
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So tudor if this was your project are you thinking reservoir or tractor sump . It would save a lot to go with the sump . But monitoring what is going inside there would be difficult . I would install a filter an a strainer but a breather would probably be needed to help clean air being sucked in , an some going in around the shifters would be hard to control. If we go with tanks we may put one on each side an run a large cross over line. Not sure that would work just talking out loud , just thinking we could carry 8 gal on each side that way .
Well, your tractor is 3 times the size of my biggest tractor, a MF GC2310 SCUT TLB, which also uses the sump for the reservoir for the hydraulics. My loader GT has a totally separate system because the sump only holds enough fluid for the hydro and a few small implement lift cylinders, and not enough to also support the loader.
Being a cheap and lazy sod, and not much into re-engineering systems that have been proven to be adequate, I'd use the existing sump with a strainer and filter for the loader pump. There should already be a vent on the sump, possibly by making use of the open spaces around the shifter that you are concerned about, and more likely some other type of venting device on top of, or near the top of, the housing. The vent on car and truck differentials is a barbed fitting near the top of the pumpkin with a short hose hanging straight down. That has worked satisfactorily on rear wheel drive cars and trucks for decades. As long as the vent is made to keep out insects, water, and major debris, it doesn't really matter what it looks like. The sump contains meshing gears and bearings that are subject to wear that will deposit particles into the fluid from inside the sump where a filtered breather has no effect.
It is very easy to spend a lot of money trying to guaranty that no dirt enters the sump. Periodic fluid and filter changes that need to be done to take care of the debris created internally anyway are a lot cheaper in the long run.
If you run into an overheat problem with the hydraulics, inserting a cooler and a fan into the return line is easy enough to do.
Cleanliness is critical to hydraulic systems, but that is what the fluid filters are for. :fing32:
Being a cheap and lazy sod, and not much into re-engineering systems that have been proven to be adequate, I'd use the existing sump with a strainer and filter for the loader pump. There should already be a vent on the sump, possibly by making use of the open spaces around the shifter that you are concerned about, and more likely some other type of venting device on top of, or near the top of, the housing. The vent on car and truck differentials is a barbed fitting near the top of the pumpkin with a short hose hanging straight down. That has worked satisfactorily on rear wheel drive cars and trucks for decades. As long as the vent is made to keep out insects, water, and major debris, it doesn't really matter what it looks like. The sump contains meshing gears and bearings that are subject to wear that will deposit particles into the fluid from inside the sump where a filtered breather has no effect.
It is very easy to spend a lot of money trying to guaranty that no dirt enters the sump. Periodic fluid and filter changes that need to be done to take care of the debris created internally anyway are a lot cheaper in the long run.
If you run into an overheat problem with the hydraulics, inserting a cooler and a fan into the return line is easy enough to do.
Cleanliness is critical to hydraulic systems, but that is what the fluid filters are for. :fing32:
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Ok tudor I hear you ,I seen a 451 massey last week with loader an they had a four outlet quick couplers an the control valve mounted behind the seat an were using 2 of them to run the loader. I don't want to do it that way but noted that the rear of that tractor is similar to the 175 in size an even though it was equipped with internal pumps that was utilizing the tractors fluid only. So I guess the only what if is if any dirt an dust can enter around the shifters a good boots should prevent that an installing a vent with filter for a breather an the strainer an inline filter you mentioned. AS for heat I am a Amsoil dealer an our tractor hydraulic fluid will take care of that . So thanks for giving me constant food for thought . Ya know back in the day the industrial versions of these tractors used the loader frame for a reservoir an like you said in your original post it might not need as much volume as I originally thought .
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