New LGT125 but no start?

mikey2nuts · Oct 27, 2009

Hey guys I'm a newb here... I found a LGT 125 with a 2 stage snowthrower and a 42"deck... Anyway I bought it like 2 days ago for $500... When I went see it she cranked right over for the guy and It seemed to run great.

Got it home and the next day it took quite a few tries to get it to fire but it did and I figured that was just because I wasn't used to choking procedure..

Now 2 days later I can't get it anywhere near starting......

I have done these things:
Changed spark plug
Put a small o ring on top of throttle shaft to reduce play and help vacuum
emptied fuel tank and put new gas line.
Cleaned starter connections and checked starter with it off tractor
Test for voltage drop from batt +to starter post drops from 12.2 to 1.2 I don't know what this means?

I can't even get it ti cough and it cranks really slow even when it hooked up to my truck and the truck is reved to 2600 RPM?

Cranks better when the spark plug is out?

Could I have a bad automatic compression release?

I am a little stumped why would it start pretty well one day and then 2 days later not even come close to starting?

Thanks

m.jodrey · Oct 27, 2009

Have you tried squirting a little gas down the carb to see if it will kick?

mikey2nuts · Oct 28, 2009

tried starting fluid but would gas b different what about a lil squirt in the spark plug hole?

m.jodrey · Oct 28, 2009

Have you checked to see if it has fire at the spark plug?

stonykill · Oct 28, 2009

check for spark 1st.

The slow cranking, even with jumpers is leading me to beleive that the starter is drawing too much power to crank the engine over fast enough to start. In my experience these kohler starters work fine one minute, and the next time you try to start the tractor, they are shot. They have never given me any warning signs. Good then bad. Got a starter you can borrow off of another kohler to try?

skyrydr2 · Oct 28, 2009

Jump your starter directly with jumper cables from your truck to the starter motor , if it spins over good, you may have a bad cable/s or solinoid.Do this first before taking the starter out, then check your spark.

mikey2nuts · Oct 28, 2009

Thanks gentlemen

I have checked the spark I forgot to tell you all that... There's spark

I also ran jumper cables to the starter when it was off the tractor and it spun well.... But Could it be bad and drawing too much power and spinning just not with enough gusto to fire her up?

Thanks for your assistance guys snow's coming up here in Northern Maine and I can't wait to see that 2 stage throwing snow!

I took the cylinder head off last night and looked at the valves to see if I could tell if the exhaust valve was working correctly and I need to investigate that further..

skyrydr2 · Oct 28, 2009

You need to check the starter while it's on the engine with the jumper cables not just on the bench. Also if the exaust valve is held open on compression ever so slightly it is probably from the easy start governer what ever you call it thing. I would put it back together and test your starter , I dout it's a mechanical issue? does the engine spin over easy by hand with the head off ? If so your probably good to go.
I had a bad battery cable mess with me onn my big tractor not to long ago, it looked perfect until I cut it open, it had "gang green". I replaced it and it spins over like a dream.

mikey2nuts · Oct 28, 2009

OK The engine does spin over freely by hand with the cylinder head off....

The gasket also looks great...

I did find something i am suspicious of... When cranking I am not getting 12V to the plus side of the coil... Do you think that could make her crank real slow?

Thanks I will try it with the engine put back together and the starter on!

skyrydr2 · Oct 28, 2009

Should have 12v at the coil while cranking? If you have spark while it's cranking then you must? Or at least 6v plus... That won't cause the draw ,but a poor connection will.

ezliving4ume · Oct 28, 2009

This sounds like a classic case. You need to refill your electrical wires with smoke. I think the wires must have a small hole allowing all the smoke out. I've seen the smoke kits on ebay to add the smoke back into your wires.

Sorry I couldn't help myself

stonykill · Oct 28, 2009

ezliving4ume said:
This sounds like a classic case. You need to refill your electrical wires with smoke. I think the wires must have a small hole allowing all the smoke out. I've seen the smoke kits on ebay to add the smoke back into your wires.

Sorry I couldn't help myself

I don't get the joke

ezliving4ume · Oct 28, 2009

stonykill said:
I don't get the joke

:fing20: what do electrical wires do when they short? They smoke so if you refill the smoke, the wire should be good again. right?

skyrydr2 · Oct 28, 2009

I thought only Simplicitys, John Deere's, and Bolens' ran on smoke.....:sidelaugh :hide:

ezliving4ume · Oct 29, 2009

I've heard that Fords have rubber hoses that need refilled with gas to run correctly. That just sounds to odd to be true.

stonykill · Oct 29, 2009

ezliving4ume said:
I've heard that Fords have rubber hoses that need refilled with gas to run correctly. That just sounds to odd to be true.

yeah, I'm sure no gas is why it cranks slowly. That make PERFECT sence.

It is either a bad connection or a bad starter. Not out of gas for a slow crank, not smoke filled wires etc.

m.jodrey · Oct 29, 2009

stonykill said:
yeah, I'm sure no gas is why it cranks slowly. That make PERFECT sence.

It is either a bad connection or a bad starter. Not out of gas for a slow crank, not smoke filled wires etc.

:ditto:
Electrical or starter.

mikey2nuts · Oct 29, 2009

Anyone ever used these ppl. ?

http://stores.channeladvisor.com/db-starter-alternator/items/item.aspx?itemid=133827

Looks like a great price but I'm always leary of these too good to be true deals.. the ones at the local NAPA are like $179.....That a bit of $$$

Thnaks

skyrydr2 · Oct 29, 2009

Mikey try your old one again with the jumper cables hooked direct, I think it could be a bad cable or connection

mikey2nuts · Oct 29, 2009

Hey guys i am finding something else Anyone ever adjusted their automatic compression release? I have looked at my vale to tappet clearance and that is right... But 2/3 of the way up the compression stroke the valve is supposed to rise .031-.042 as indicated by a dial indicator...Now I am trying to measure any gap b/w the valve and the cylinder head with a feeler gauge and I get nothing sooooo that seems like there should be some clearance right??? I can see the valve go up a little bit but it may not be enough?

If this is the case should I adjust the ACR or grind the bottom of the valve? The valve doesn't look to be in bad shape at all so I was going to do the ACR I have an engine with an early serial no so it says the ACR is adjustable in the manual...

However it seems the acr tab is very fragile and if you brake it woops you need a new camshaft!

Thoughts?

New LGT125 but no start?

mikey2nuts

Attachments

m.jodrey

mikey2nuts

m.jodrey

stonykill

skyrydr2

mikey2nuts

skyrydr2

mikey2nuts

skyrydr2

ezliving4ume

stonykill

ezliving4ume

skyrydr2

ezliving4ume

stonykill

m.jodrey

mikey2nuts

skyrydr2

mikey2nuts

Top Contributors this Month

Recommended Communities