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cheap4tw

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I recently purchased a 1994 Yardman 998 lawn tractor off a co-worker. It came with the snowblower already attached and had been sitting for a couple of years.

I got it running (some of the wires had been chewed through) and am planning on changing the oil. Should I also change the hydrostatic fluid? This is the first lawn tractor I've owned so I know very little about the hydrostatic transmission.

I've downloaded several manuals and have been doing some reading to try and figure things out.

Another issue I am having is it seems one side of the hydraulic lifts higher then the other. Any ideas pointers at what I should check here would be appreciated.

I am planning on taking off the snowblower and the the wheel weights/chains off but wanted to figure out the hydraulic issue first.

It also came with a mower which I'll snap some pictures of tomorrow and post as well. I want to hook up the mower as I just purchased a house with a huge lawn and the push mower is feeling the pain.

Anyways here are a few pics:
 

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Welcome to the forum.
If you are saying the snow blowers is lifting unevenly, they tend to do that. If you are saying the 3 pt hitch is uneven, there are adjustments that can be made following the manual. If it lifts the blower up, it is probably working ok.
 
Welcome! I have a 995 and love it!
As for the lift problem it is one of 3 things. 1. The rockshaft is bent
2. There is a broken roll pin somewhere in the system
3. A linkage it mounted wrong.
 
I'd change it, nice find!
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Ok well I am slowly making progress.

I removed the snow blower and the undercarriage is very loose. The jam nut on the right hand side is adjusted fully loose and seems off. I am going to take a lot of pictures tonight so its easier to understand what I am talking about.

One question though, should the under carriage locks be attached at all with the snow blower in place? They weren't attached on mine and the right hand side locks are all bent to ****.

I am trying to get the side panels off (foot rest portions) to take some better pictures but how does the clutch/brake pedal come off?
 
The lift carriage is normally loose and gets more so as the linkage holes wear larger with use. I oil those a lot.

The carriage lock brackets tend to get bent also. I straighten mine in a vice. They are used when the lift is not being used, like when using a plow or disc on the 3 point hitch.

The pedal is held on with a spring roll pin. Drive the pin out with a pin punch and hammer. Look at page 8 in the manual and you will see it clearly, detail 3.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Hey all,

I am going to be working on the tractor more this weekend. Unfortunately it just stopped running and will not turn over. I am going to change the spark plug this weekend and see if it helps.

Any suggestions as to why it would just stop starting (yes it has gas)? It's been running fine the past month.


Also I will get some pictures of the undercarriage posted tonight, but are the undercarriage adjustments normally attached when the snow blower is mounted? Mine were not.
 
Try turning it over with starter fluid. If it's not flooded and kicks, then go after the carburetor/fuel pump. I'd recommend changing all the fuel line, fuel filter, possibly even the shutoff and strainer if applicable. Then clean the carburetor and replace all the associated gaskets. If it doesn't kick, then yeah investigate the ignition system.
 
Hey all,

I am going to be working on the tractor more this weekend. Unfortunately it just stopped running and will not turn over. I am going to change the spark plug this weekend and see if it helps.
By not turning over, the starter is not engaging when the key is turned? Is there a solenoid click? A new spark plug would not fix this problem. Look for a safety switch (seat?) to start with.
Also I will get some pictures of the undercarriage posted tonight, but are the undercarriage adjustments normally attached when the snow blower is mounted? Mine were not.
Just up and down is needed for the blower.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
When I am sitting on the tractor with the clutch/brake engaged and turn the key the engine cranks and keeps cranking but will not catch. This only started happening yesterday, before that it would crank for a second and catch no problem.
 
Check the spark plugs, see what color they are and if they are corroded or cracked. I wouldn't necessary change them right away. If there was a problem with the plugs itself, you would be running on one cylinder and it would be blatantly obvious.

I'd suggest spraying a mist of starting fluid into the carburetor, and see if it starts up for a few seconds. Take the air cleaner cover off and spray it into the carburetor for about 1 1/2 seconds. If it starts, then there is a fuel problem.
 
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