Converting Model l 2 speed to swiftomatic

stano316 · Mar 5, 2015

Great Thanks,

So everything in red, or with a red arrow is needed to install the worm gear. Since I am not removing my worm gear, I will not need these components. What is the big spring for (green arrow) and the part on the left (green arrow) - that looks like it is used for some bearing, but not sure.

Thanks again.

DJ in WV · Mar 5, 2015

I'm far from your parts expert Stan, trust me on that one. Those bearing races in red, one or both may be for the worm gear and maybe not. They look to be about the right diameter though and it came with the nut and lock, so they're guilty by association.

Fla Don · Mar 5, 2015

Green arrow parts are also used with the worm. The item on the far left goes just in front of the High-Low Planetary on the worm shaft. The spring goes in between the F-R planetary set and the bearing held by the large Bearing Adjusting Nut.

stano316 · Mar 5, 2015

OK, so if I am not touching the worm gear in my machine for the conversion, I do not need to use them, and leave my worm gear alone.

cmeyers77 · Mar 6, 2015

stano316 said:
OK, so if I am not touching the worm gear in my machine for the conversion, I do not need to use them, and leave my worm gear alone.

That is correct!

beaner2u · Mar 6, 2015

And you should have two of the long springs shown in the background, one on each side of the shift arm on the high/low range shift arm.

As Don said, the large spring is used to bias the forward/reverse planetary towards the reverse gear cone.

Roger,

stano316 · Mar 8, 2015

Thanks, I do have 2 springs, so I am good to go there. I have pulled the old axles, housing, diff out, and now have begun to dry fit everything. I have run into a bit of a snag. It seems that the oil pickup tube is in the way of the diff. Does this sound right or has anyone experienced this?

beaner2u · Mar 8, 2015

You will need the new style oil pickup, it's much better anyway, finer screen.

Roger,

stano316 · Mar 8, 2015

I forgot to mention, I found this in the bottom of the chassis...

Some brass from the diff circled in red. It looks like a shim of some sorts, not sure where it is from, the worm gear looks clean, no play.

The brass diff is pretty rough, not sure how well it shows up on the pics. There is a piece of brass sticking out circled in red...

Prior to tear down, the machine appeared to be running quite smooth, and the drive system did not seem out of sorts, and was also quite smooth. I am not sure what is going on. With that being said, I am glad I opened it up.

jrd · Mar 8, 2015

That bronze gear is showing some wear, for sure, but it's not as bad as some I've seen. From the pattern of the wear, I think you're looking at a machine which was neglected and allowed to run with insufficient or dirty oil, more than anything else.

The shim is a puzzler. That was just lying in the bottom of the sump?

What does the worm look like? I know your plan is to leave it in place, but esp given that the bronze gear is showing wear, and you're this far into it, it'd be a good idea to inspect it.

stano316 · Mar 8, 2015

The worm gear is clean, no scratches or marks, no chunks missing. That "shim" was just lying there in the sump.

beaner2u · Mar 8, 2015

I wonder if that is part of a bearing. With the advance casting off and the f/r planetary removed, check the lead worm for excessive play. It should turn freely but it should not have any fore and aft play.

Roger,

stano316 · Mar 8, 2015

No play at all in the worm gear, spins nice and smooth.

cmeyers77 · Mar 8, 2015

Considering the age of your L, I'd say things look decent. With the axels off you can take care of a few things such a as upgrade to a new oil pickup, install a dipstick, and obviously a good cleaning.

I look forward to seeing the completed project, you are well on the way to a much more usable L.

Corey

stano316 · Mar 8, 2015

My not so bad problem, I recently just picked up from the looks a 60s l8 for a pretty good deal. It does not have a good, and doesn't run but for the most part looks hood. It has compression. The previous owner thinks it may be a spark issue. Of course I get it midway through this project to convert my L into an L8. I can pull all the parts I need from it and finish mine, or buy the parts and finish mine. I bought it mostly as a parts machine but it's in better shape than I thought. My machine runs like a champ. Not sure what to do. Any advice?

CADplans · Mar 8, 2015

stano316 said:
My not so bad problem, I recently just picked up from the looks a 60s l8 for a pretty good deal. My machine runs like a champ. Not sure what to do. Any advice?

I am a fan of scrapping L machines, and only using Kohler powered machines,,
THAT is my advise,,,,

BUT, that advise is coming from someone that only wants to use the machine,,
not restore it,,,, :dunno:

gravely1964 · Mar 8, 2015

Get the one you picked up running, Then order parts for the one your working on. Then you have 2 and won't have to switch attachments as much anymore :thThumbsU

Also :wwp:

stano316 · Mar 8, 2015

Here are the pics...

Mikey4 · Mar 8, 2015

Your pictures look very hopeful. I am not a two wheeler guy but I always like either very clean machines or those encrusted in years of grime. Based solely on your pictures, yours appears to be the latter. After a good cleaning you can better assess its real condition. My guess is, based just on averages with crusty machines, it will be better than it now appears and surely worth bringing back to life.

jrd · Mar 8, 2015

gravely1964 said:
Get the one you picked up running, Then order parts for the one your working on. Then you have 2 and won't have to switch attachments as much anymore :thThumbsU

Also :wwp:

What Steve said. Don't scrap it. Do one project, then the next.

Converting Model l 2 speed to swiftomatic

stano316

DJ in WV

Fla Don

stano316

cmeyers77

beaner2u

stano316

beaner2u

stano316

jrd

stano316

beaner2u

stano316

cmeyers77

stano316

CADplans

gravely1964

stano316

Mikey4

jrd

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