Snow? :dunno:
We don't get much of that around these parts. Sometime in early December I will change over to FEL duty to move mulch and play. I have a very steep yard and was just thinking safety wanting to keep the COG as low as possible. Also, this can be an expensive forum.
Roll your tractor once, then make a comment on how expensive this forum is. The cost of my rollover this past summer so far has been knocking on the door of $1000. I'm still working on the engine and expect another large chunk of change is going to leave my wallet before it's back in the tractor.
The rules for traction in snow and stability on slopes are pretty much the same, load the rear tires with the heaviest fluid available and add wheel weights.
Counter weight fixed to the rear of the tractor helps if it doesn't raise the center of gravity. eg. A back hoe is a bad choice for stability on slopes. (See the first paragraph.) A back blade is a good choice when not raised to the limiit.
Our need for traction in snow conditions is not hampered by the height of the counterweight as it is when dealing with slopes. We very, very seldom get crosswise to a slope when moving snow. There's too much risk of sliding downslope sideways in slippery conditions.
If you have the option of spacers for the rear wheels to widen the stance, or switching rear tires from side to side to take advantage of a smaller backset for a wider track, these will also help stability.
The same does not apply to the front wheels. A pivoting axle defeats any attempt at improving stability at the front of the tractor. The tractor can roll over even when both front wheels are in contact with the ground
after the critical angle is reached.
raying:
