I asked about this in my long thread about the LT133 I'm fixing up, but I figure I'll get more help if I make a separate thread about it. The tractor got a new spark plug and battery, all the connections between the solenoid, starter and battery were cleaned, and then the ignition coil decided to crap out on me. So I ordered a good coil and positioned/mounted it to where it makes good contact with the flywheel as it spins and there's no gap. Got plenty of spark through the wire and to the plug. So the electrical issue should, in theory, be fixed. Also, it was getting plenty of gas, the filter was clean and I could see a lot of gas being pushed through it. Once the new coil was on it, it would fire up much quicker (and more often) than it had done before. But it runs very rich like the choke is stuck and it's loading up with gas, sometimes shooting flames out the exhaust. Several times I've disconnected the fuel line and let the carburetor run itself empty and then put the fuel line back on, so it wasn't choking itself trying to burn off the old gas with new gas coming in from the tank. In doing this, it will clear up and run great, then about a minute later, it will start bogging down and have to keep being choked and messed around with to stay running. Could the float be stuck? I never had this problem before I redid all the electrical on the tractor. It started as an electrical problem and caused a chain reaction which led to carburetor problems. It was a hard starter to begin with, which is kind of typical on these Kohlers, from what I understand. I am almost positive the spark/coil is not the issue since I replaced it. I would bet that the carb is getting too much fuel in it and bogging down, but wouldn't this mean there's not enough spark to burn all the fuel off? I am very confused, don't know which way this is going.
LT133 is a Stubborn Machine...can't get it running right
MichaelTJD60
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I asked about this in my long thread about the LT133 I'm fixing up, but I figure I'll get more help if I make a separate thread about it. The tractor got a new spark plug and battery, all the connections between the solenoid, starter and battery were cleaned, and then the ignition coil decided to crap out on me. So I ordered a good coil and positioned/mounted it to where it makes good contact with the flywheel as it spins and there's no gap. Got plenty of spark through the wire and to the plug. So the electrical issue should, in theory, be fixed. Also, it was getting plenty of gas, the filter was clean and I could see a lot of gas being pushed through it. Once the new coil was on it, it would fire up much quicker (and more often) than it had done before. But it runs very rich like the choke is stuck and it's loading up with gas, sometimes shooting flames out the exhaust. Several times I've disconnected the fuel line and let the carburetor run itself empty and then put the fuel line back on, so it wasn't choking itself trying to burn off the old gas with new gas coming in from the tank. In doing this, it will clear up and run great, then about a minute later, it will start bogging down and have to keep being choked and messed around with to stay running. Could the float be stuck? I never had this problem before I redid all the electrical on the tractor. It started as an electrical problem and caused a chain reaction which led to carburetor problems. It was a hard starter to begin with, which is kind of typical on these Kohlers, from what I understand. I am almost positive the spark/coil is not the issue since I replaced it. I would bet that the carb is getting too much fuel in it and bogging down, but wouldn't this mean there's not enough spark to burn all the fuel off? I am very confused, don't know which way this is going.
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So, engine is a Briggs? It does sound like the there is a float problem and flooding issue. There are dozens of YouTube videos that document the process. The fix is to carefully remove the carb without mangling the throttle and governor. Then step by step process of inspection and cleaning your carb.
Ethanol in our fuels are wreaking and wrecking carburetors.
Finally, change your oil. Every time it's flooded in the past / all unburned gas has contaminated your crank case oil through the intake to the crank case.
Ethanol in our fuels are wreaking and wrecking carburetors.
Finally, change your oil. Every time it's flooded in the past / all unburned gas has contaminated your crank case oil through the intake to the crank case.
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It's a Kohler Command CV13S. Unfortunately I don't have time to mess with the carburetor and was trying to avoid that step at all costs since it was running fine when I first got it. Somehow the electrical problem lead to a fuel problem. It is a Walbro carb which might explain the problem, I know these things are notorious for making Kohlers run like crap, both the newer Command series and the old K series. Also, oil was low so I put a fresh quart of oil in it so it is good to go.
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there's not much to those carbs.. take it off & clean it with air.. only one needle valve in them & some have a limiter on them.. I find most probs in the tube that goes thro the center of the float.. there is a jet in it that get's plugged up with crap..
if the former owner ran ethanol gas in it u will find that it has prolly made lil crystals that look like grains of sand.. real light tan in color.. found these in 4 diff engines.. all these engines had the mechanical fuel pump on right side of engine.. then gas went thro a steel tube up & over the cyl & down to carb.. I think the heat of cyl made the ethanol turn to grains of sand.. these lil grains (viewed thro a magnifying glass) plugged the jet & also the float needle would hang up with one or 2 stuck to it..
symptoms I found sounded like too much gas & also not enuf gas... found some crystals in the float bowel of all the carbs.. all the engines had good fuel filters too.. ONLY found the crystals tween the fuel pump & the carb..
if the former owner ran ethanol gas in it u will find that it has prolly made lil crystals that look like grains of sand.. real light tan in color.. found these in 4 diff engines.. all these engines had the mechanical fuel pump on right side of engine.. then gas went thro a steel tube up & over the cyl & down to carb.. I think the heat of cyl made the ethanol turn to grains of sand.. these lil grains (viewed thro a magnifying glass) plugged the jet & also the float needle would hang up with one or 2 stuck to it..
symptoms I found sounded like too much gas & also not enuf gas... found some crystals in the float bowel of all the carbs.. all the engines had good fuel filters too.. ONLY found the crystals tween the fuel pump & the carb..
I would put a new plug in it then see how it runs. I had a similiar situation with my walk behind recently but it would run fine for a short while.
Once a plug is fuel fouled, it's pretty much trashed....even if you clean it up nice and shiny with sandpaper.
Once a plug is fuel fouled, it's pretty much trashed....even if you clean it up nice and shiny with sandpaper.
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I have to disagree with u on that..
have u got any proof one is that.. by what science do u base that on...
in other words ur sayin once an engine get's flooded it destroys a plug..
r u tellin us u put a new plug in each time u get ready to mow..
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YES... u r right on the card bit... should b a tiny gap.. no contact with the flywheel is needed to make a spark..
Fuel fouled and running rich are completely different. Engines run rich everytime they start cold. However.....if you have fouled your plug with fuel, it will present your symptoms. Not saying it needs a plug, but for a couple bucks I would most certainly try it.
The air gap on the maget is definitely something to set though.
Forgot to ask, has the fuel been sitting in the tank for a long time....say over 3 months?
I had a carb apart last weekend from a small engine and it would start, idle, run at light throttle...carb was blown out, carb cleaner ran through it...etc.
I took it apart and found a glob of congealed fuel or whatever...looked like a dab of earwax or something right in the small passage under a gasket.
Cleaned it out and it ran perfect.
So it's hard to say, but if the airgap is set to .010, fuel is fresh, I would try a plug before tearing into the carb.
Another thought, my sisters old rider wouldn't run worth a darn using a membrane style fuel filter, would clog up very easy. Changed to a pleated filter and it ran like a champ.
Just some ideas for you.
I had a carb apart last weekend from a small engine and it would start, idle, run at light throttle...carb was blown out, carb cleaner ran through it...etc.
I took it apart and found a glob of congealed fuel or whatever...looked like a dab of earwax or something right in the small passage under a gasket.
Cleaned it out and it ran perfect.
So it's hard to say, but if the airgap is set to .010, fuel is fresh, I would try a plug before tearing into the carb.
Another thought, my sisters old rider wouldn't run worth a darn using a membrane style fuel filter, would clog up very easy. Changed to a pleated filter and it ran like a champ.
Just some ideas for you.
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One statement you made clarifys the problem --needle/seat in carb...You stopped the fuel flow and eng ran fine for minute or so on its gas in bowl.....Therefore, spark is good, sparkplug is not fouled, carb main jet is clear...All you need to do is drop the bowl, clean and inspect the needle/seat or replace needle if damaged..check float for fuel inside if metal, replace if so, re-install bowl, youre done !
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Thanks all for your input. It seems that there could be many culprits causing this issue. My uncle had a similar problem with his LT155 so I am wondering if a lot of these Kohlers have issues like this. I pulled the spark plug out to see if it was fouled and in the process, I broke the end off while it was in the socket. So I ended up putting a new plug in it anyway. Helped it start a little easier. So that eliminates part of the problem. You say there should be a gap between the magnet and the coil? Never looked at it that way but I guess it makes sense. I will re adjust it so it gets better conductivity. I'm going to do that first and see if it helps the spark and helps it to run smoother since it has a new plug in it. If that does not completely fix the problem, I will pull the fuel bowl off and see what it looks like inside. It had been sitting a little while with somewhat-old gas in it, but I ran it empty and cleaned the lines out (actually let some seafoam sit in the tank for a few days) and then I filled it up with fresh fuel again so that is not the issue. Like I said, it was still used every once in a while so it's not like it was sitting for a really long time. I also ran carb cleaner through it to help clean the jet(s) out. I'll be darned if the float needle is gummed up or hung up and not allowing the right amount of fuel to get through.
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the main point on the fuel.. these engines do NOT like ethanol gas used in them.. ALWAYS use non ethanol gas.. it only takes ethanol gas 6 weeks to start it's varnishin of carb components.. & over time it can plug them up too
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No ethanol around this place. **** no. Don't want to hurt these things especially having an old Kohler K241 and K301 sitting around.
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Sounds like a carb clean is in order...
Have you changed your fuel filter since your running issues have started?
Edited to add.... When I set the gap on the coil, I uses a .010 feeler gauge then close one side of the coil on that gauge, tighten screw, then the same for the other side and recheck when finished.
Is there any chance you may have damaged the coil from having it make contact to the flywheel? I think it may be ok but something to check.
What oil do you have in there? I found something interesting online about using 10W-30 oil instead of straight 30W as the straight 30W can give the hydraulic lifters issues on not pumping up.
Edited to add.... When I set the gap on the coil, I uses a .010 feeler gauge then close one side of the coil on that gauge, tighten screw, then the same for the other side and recheck when finished.
Is there any chance you may have damaged the coil from having it make contact to the flywheel? I think it may be ok but something to check.
What oil do you have in there? I found something interesting online about using 10W-30 oil instead of straight 30W as the straight 30W can give the hydraulic lifters issues on not pumping up.
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10w-30 oil. Fuel filter is new. I hope I have not damaged the coil, I will go back and readjust where it is set. Would sanding the magnet help make a better connection at all?
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