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Discussion starter · #141 ·
Interesting approach... Something to consider..


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I meant to include this picture of the worn shaft.

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you need the cam to fit the bearing as well as possible if you do not you can at a minimum get FOD in the engine but you will also have issues with valve timing and lash. iu would look for a different cam and make sure to replace the bushing or bearing.

regarding the crank...you did let it get up to room temp and dry i presume before you installed it in the engine?
 
Discussion starter · #143 ·
My plan is to try and locate another cam before doing anything about the valve lash. Yes crank was warm before installed.


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Maybe Brian Miller might have one? He mainly does Kohler work but it he might be a good source. I know his web site is helpful and I am thinking about sending him one of my K181's to rebuild..... (Boils down to time, if he can rebuild the k181 while I work on the rest of the machine it might be faster at the rate I move :ROF)

Forgot his website:
http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/valvecam.htm
 
Discussion starter · #146 ·

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Discussion starter · #147 ·
So thinking about this all night trying to understand why such a big gap on the exhaust valve , so I decided to look in the Tecumseh manual. Very strange because it states that the Intake is .010 and the exhaust is .020 both cold. Which is closer to what the K181 is. So although I am still wide at .025 it is not nearly as alarming as from .010 to .025. I wonder why the difference. It would make some sense that the exhaust should be wider. Right? Is the JD service manual wrong?
 
I'd think so, because wouldn't that valve heat more and expand more? I went back and checked what I'd measured for mine, they were .010 for intake and a VERY TIGHT 0.010 for exhaust... Hmmmmm
 
I know in every motor I have ever adjusted the valves in the exhaust is a larger gap cold. Not .010 larger but larger. That being said however these get considerably hotter than the water cooled engines I was adjusting. I would tend to believe the tec manual myself. I'm afraid at .010 on the exhaust if you were to work it really hard and get it good and hot that your exhaust will be open by a few thou while running.
 
Discussion starter · #150 ·
Thanks QA, was just reading through another post for a Sears Suburban with an HH100 and he set intake to .010 and exhaust to .020. So I still think I will try to locate an new cam and maybe a valve, but I am not nearly as worried as I was when I dropped this last night. FYi K181 is intake .006 -.008 and exhaust .017 - .019. Going by that relationship I am not too bad. Worst come to worst, I could probably run it as is. Famous last words .....
 
Maybe Brian Miller might have one? He mainly does Kohler work but it he might be a good source. I know his web site is helpful and I am thinking about sending him one of my K181's to rebuild..... (Boils down to time, if he can rebuild the k181 while I work on the rest of the machine it might be faster at the rate I move :ROF)

Forgot his website:
http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/valvecam.htm
lots of good stuff in that link MrBeef. He uses alot of the same machines i used to have and similar technique. :fing32:
 
Discussion starter · #152 ·
So i know that my lifter/tappet on the intake side was 2-3 thousands longer so I could swap those, but then I would need to grind the intake valve. Depending how I make out this week locating a cam, I may do like Biker suggested and take it to machine shop and see if they can either grind the valve or the seat maybe 5 thousands. I think I am going to keep it closer to .020 than .010, unless someone comes back and suggests something I am not taking into consideration. Especially since the Kohler is like that. I know they are different engines, but still both single cylinder almost identical lay out.

LTG don't know what to tell you. Decisions decisions decisions. It would be pretty simple to grind off a few thousands if you have a bench top sander.
 
Discussion starter · #153 ·
So it has been about 9 or 10 days since an update. I left off with my cam and exhaust valve challenge. I was looking on ebay for a used cam, but was unable to find one for a RF, but I did find a place that had a used RF crank for sale, so I decided to call them to see if by chance he had the cam. Bob's Lawn and Garden in OH. I spoke with Bob and he was very helpful, but said unfortunately he did not have it. He said he would look around to see what he could do. He sells both salvage and new. He called me a couple of hours later and said he found a NOS cam. Neither one of us could believe it. He was familiar with the difference in the cams for the RF and SF.So he ordered it to be shipped to his place so he could make sure it was correct. I got it today along with a good used exhaust valve that is longer then the one I have. Now I just need to find some time to put these in. Not that there is a lot of good news working on these HH100, but in this case there is. Unlike the K181 which requires taking the crank out to change the cam, I can just remove the cam once I take the side cover off. By the way I had tried several other salvage places with no luck.
 

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WOW a NOS cam... that is great! Shows that parts are floating out there... it just take a good amount of leg work to find them!
 
Discussion starter · #156 ·
LTG, not sure if you were kidding or not, but he told me there was only one available, so I jumped right on it. My frugal side wanted to look around a bit more, but I was afraid I'd loose it and then be stuck.

Ok, I went out to the barn for a couple of hours this evening and pulled the cylinder cover off and pulled out the old cam. at first the new cam did not want to slide in and I was wondering if the old worn shaft had done some damage. It looked good with a light so I just ran some 600 sandpaper with oil around the bushing and that took care of the problem.

After installing the new cam I decided to go back through the crank end play adjustments since I had the cylinder cover off. My measurements were pretty much by the book, probably because I had replaced both bearings and cups. I ended up using 2 of the thin paper gaskets, which came out to .0085. Close enough the book called for .009 but three was over .010.

Now the interesting part. If you recall with the old worn cam, the intake gap was a tight .010 and the exhaust was .025+. With the new cam the intake was now a tight .006 and exhaust was .022. It makes sense that the intake changed the most as that was the end of the cam shaft that was really worn.

So I ground the intake to .010 and then I lapped the new (old/used) exhaust valve and it came in at a tight .014. We had that discussion about the JD manual showing .010 for both exhaust and intake and the Tecumseh manual stating .010 intake and .020 exhaust. Sooooooo I decided to leave the exhaust at .014. I figured it was better than .010. I had been thinking all along that I would split the difference if I had the opportunity (which would be .015)so that was pretty close.

Next I will put the studs back in the block and get the head installed. Oh yeah I still need to install the points. I got a couple of brass push rods from Randy Becker ( WFM) to replace the original style which are NLA. I have to laugh, the PO told me the only problem with this was the points push rod was broken off.
 

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I was just kidding there, Smalljob... Well, not really, if there was ANOTHER one out there I'd be all over it! :thThumbsU

Looks like you're all set there with that one! Congrats!
 
that little bit of extremal clearance will just rattle a bit. you likely wont even hear it.

its is good that you got something different that what yo9u had with the tip being chewed up like it was you will not regret it...NOS...COOL!!! its a miracle they could locate that for you:)
 
Discussion starter · #159 ·
A little before and after ....
 

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Shiny!!! I like it. When is the test run?
 
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