Hi All, I've been reading and rereading posts on synthetic oil and I have a question. I just had my tractor replaced by Sears, a Craftsman Professional 28870 with a 24hp Briggs ELS and I'm changing over to the winter setup. I'd like to put Synthetic 5W-30 oil in it for easier starts during winter. The problem is, I only have about 5.5 hours on the new tractor and as I understand it from my reading here there is a break in period of about 10 hours where regular oil is beneficial, or even required. Should I wait and run the summer weight oil for the first part of the cold season and change after 10 hours or can I change to synthetic now while we still have some warm, happy days for working on tractors?
Too early to change to synthetic?
ggsteve
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Hi All, I've been reading and rereading posts on synthetic oil and I have a question. I just had my tractor replaced by Sears, a Craftsman Professional 28870 with a 24hp Briggs ELS and I'm changing over to the winter setup. I'd like to put Synthetic 5W-30 oil in it for easier starts during winter. The problem is, I only have about 5.5 hours on the new tractor and as I understand it from my reading here there is a break in period of about 10 hours where regular oil is beneficial, or even required. Should I wait and run the summer weight oil for the first part of the cold season and change after 10 hours or can I change to synthetic now while we still have some warm, happy days for working on tractors?
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Here is what briggs says. On new engines break in is the first 5 hours.
http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faqs.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=67
http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faqs.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=67
And for anyone with a Kohler
http://www.kohlerengines.com/service/faq.html#faq3
Looks like 50hrs is recommended prior to synthetic.
http://www.kohlerengines.com/service/faq.html#faq3
Looks like 50hrs is recommended prior to synthetic.
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Dummy me didn't read and put synthetic in right after I bought it. I've never seen so much white smoke in my life. :00000060:
Quickly went back to "dino" oil.
I'll be putting 5w-30 "dino" in it for Winter plowing then probably one more season of 10w-30 "dino" before switching to full synthetic.
Quickly went back to "dino" oil.
I'll be putting 5w-30 "dino" in it for Winter plowing then probably one more season of 10w-30 "dino" before switching to full synthetic.
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10,320 Posts
From the B&S website:
"Break-in period is accomplished at any speed above idle and may occur faster if the engine is operated at varying loads and speeds. However, break-in occurs at an acceptable rate if the engine is operated at slightly less than top no-load speed with or without a moderate load. Combustion pressures at this speed are sufficiently high to cause piston rings to conform to the cylinder wall. It is recommended that an engine not be operated continuously at full load during the initial hours of operation. This can lead to permanent deformation of the cylinder bore."
Boy, I wish I'd known that about 5 hours ago! I guess I should be running my tractor below full throttle? I thought full throttle was necessary for the health of the hydro transmission? I thought Sears recommended only mowing at full throttle (after engaging the mower)? What am I supposed to do, just drive around at half speed for 5-10 hours before I can use the tractor? Worse yet, won't snowthrowing put an even heavier load on the engine?
"Break-in period is accomplished at any speed above idle and may occur faster if the engine is operated at varying loads and speeds. However, break-in occurs at an acceptable rate if the engine is operated at slightly less than top no-load speed with or without a moderate load. Combustion pressures at this speed are sufficiently high to cause piston rings to conform to the cylinder wall. It is recommended that an engine not be operated continuously at full load during the initial hours of operation. This can lead to permanent deformation of the cylinder bore."
Boy, I wish I'd known that about 5 hours ago! I guess I should be running my tractor below full throttle? I thought full throttle was necessary for the health of the hydro transmission? I thought Sears recommended only mowing at full throttle (after engaging the mower)? What am I supposed to do, just drive around at half speed for 5-10 hours before I can use the tractor? Worse yet, won't snowthrowing put an even heavier load on the engine?
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I thought Sears recommended only mowing at full throttle (after engaging the mower)?
They do. I ran about 3/4 throttle the first 5 hours, but it had more to do that I didn't like listening to the screaming beast. Full throttle seemed like overkill since I was maybe cutting 1 - 11/2" of the top. It cut fine at 3/4 T.
I wouldn't worry about it. It over and done with.
So what if your motor goes to crap the next time you go to cut. You can upgrade to a vanguard.
No seriously don't worry about it.
They do. I ran about 3/4 throttle the first 5 hours, but it had more to do that I didn't like listening to the screaming beast. Full throttle seemed like overkill since I was maybe cutting 1 - 11/2" of the top. It cut fine at 3/4 T.
I wouldn't worry about it. It over and done with.
So what if your motor goes to crap the next time you go to cut. You can upgrade to a vanguard.
No seriously don't worry about it.
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Steve
I think what they are saying is, do not run your tractor for 5 hours continuously when it is brand new. Cool down and heat up is also needed. So if your mowed for 1 hour, or what ever, at a time, your good. They don't want you to buy a new tractor and go mow grass the whole day.
Like they say newer rings and cylinders don't need many hours for break in, like the old days. I would change the oil, and run it. Up to you what kind of oil, but I think either would work.
I think what they are saying is, do not run your tractor for 5 hours continuously when it is brand new. Cool down and heat up is also needed. So if your mowed for 1 hour, or what ever, at a time, your good. They don't want you to buy a new tractor and go mow grass the whole day.
Like they say newer rings and cylinders don't need many hours for break in, like the old days. I would change the oil, and run it. Up to you what kind of oil, but I think either would work.
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