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Thanks guys. I didn't have any idea before signing up to the forum I would get this much info.

Mrbeef, I just took the time to watch the vids you have posted (at least the first four). That turned into me making a Excel of 32 items to include into my examination of the machine. then after the items I listed a Poor, Fair, good rating on each item.

So many times I have went out half cocked to buy something used and after the fact find out I brought home a money pit. :Disgus: (Jeep Wrangler).

I meet the owner Tomorrow morning about 2hrs away. Will let you all know.
Great! If it is small enough try uploading the excel file, that will helps other :fing32: I never thought to list something like that.

I ended up on the bad end of a 318 deal and at that point I decided I would know exactly what I was looking at any time I purchased one. :fing32:
 
Been working on them for 25 years; The 318 is one of the better built tractors. If you were to ask me what is the week point on a 318. I would have to think long and hard, They are/were the Most durable GT made. Buy it you will feel proud, Well come to the forum.
Hello aphares
I agree with Tony here the John Deere 318 is one of the Toughest Lawn & Garden Tractor's that John Deere ever Built. Like any Piece of Equipment if it has had reasonable Care it will last a Very Long time, and that is why so many of them are still out there going strong. I have had my First Year 1983 John Deere 318 for almost Six year's now, and have not had any serious break down issues. The Transmission's in these 318's are very tough but they can develope leaks at the Hydro Valves, as well as seal's or Gasket area's, Mine hasn't Yet but I have heard of other's that have. The Onan engine is of Industrial quality. Even though they no Longer make the Onan Engine block's you can get all of the Needed Part's to re-build one, and they were made to be re-built Multiple time's unlike most other air cooled gas engine's, an Onan is a Long Term Investment engine. I Mow two full acre's of Grass per week during our Nine Month Mowing season here in East Tennessee so mine get's a solid work out in the summer and I also Till Our Vegetable Garden with mine as well as some Neighbor's with my model 30 Hydraulic tiller twice a season.


The Biggest annoying issue I have had with mine is Fuel. This Pump Gas with Ethanol Kills small gas engine's as well as their Internal rubber gas lines. Many John Deere 318 owner's have had issues of Plugged carburetor's from the break down of the Internal Gas line which turn's it into a Sticky Black looking Goo and Often send's it past a single gas line filter to Plug up the Idle jet inside the Carburetor. I had this issue last spring and finally located it and replaced all of my fuel line's as well as Placed Two see through heavy duty gas filter's that are now mounted in Plain sight on the machine's firewall. I try to only Buy Pure Gasoline for mine, but if I have to run Ethanol blended fuel I always' use Lucas Brand Ethanol safe Guard Gasoline additive.


John Deere still offer's about every part that one would need to replace on the 318 Tractor which is nice as there is nothing worse than having a Tractor that you can not get part's for any more. The Early Model 318's made from 1983-1986 time span will have the Onan B-43-G engine's in them that have a Point's & Condenser Ignition system. One's made after 1986 should have the Onan P-218 engine in them that has Electronic Ignition system's. Mine came with a Point's-Condenser Ignition so when I replaced it's tired engine last year during my restoration of the Tractor I had a P-218 engine built for mine as they are Five Cubic inche's larger than the Original B-43-G engine's were and used my Existing Point's style Ignition system on the new engine. The Power of a Fresh P-218 engine is Awesome I have Pulled my front wheel's about Six Inches off the ground when I am Tilling hard with it and the engine show's no sign of Bogging down.



As Other's have told you here there may be some leak's of Oil or Hydraulic fluid that have to be addressed. I was lucky when I bought mine as it did not really have any leak's on it but mine was Missing it's belly Screen which attaches to the bottom of the machine's frame area and filter's out Grass, dirt and debris so over the long haul with no filtration in that area of Incoming fresh air the dirt, grass and debris took it's Toal on my Piston ring's making the engine tired. I have since added the Much needed belly screen when I put my new engine in and I Now pay much closer attention to it's air breather Pre-foam filter as well as the Paper element, I clean them Bi-Weekly. I run my new engine on full synthetic engine oil being Pennzoil Platinum brand and drop it @ 50 Hours placing a new oil filter when I do so. I also change my Hydraulic Transmission filter Twice a season to Insure a Long trouble free life out of the Transmission.


When you check this 318 Out just go over it well to insure that you are getting a Good Tractor as there are still Ton's of them out there to be had and Nothing Can be worse than Buying a money Pit. I have no Regret's on the Purchase of mine the new engine cost me $1475.00 for it, but given the level of care I give it, I feel it will last me the rest of my life. Keep us Posted if you buy this 318 we all love Picture's. Here are some Picture's of mine I paid $300.00 for it when I bought it six year's ago and it came to me with an almost new Replacement 48" Mowing deck which retailed for $1300.00 alone. I have added a Model 30 Hydraulic tiller to it as shown of which I paid $700.00 for and a 54" four way dirt dozer blade that I Picked up for $100.00 that I restored. All in and done I have a total $2600.00 in my entire Restored 318 package and I am very Plased with it. Regards, Hammerdown





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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Hi guys.

I did end up buying it. $1500.00.

Thanks for helping me out on what to do and look for.

I ranked it Slightly above fair, but not good. Maybe my ranking is not to par!

Cons:

Seat safety is disabled, but only by a jumper. Needs new seat.

Very miner leak on the front Hydraulics hoses running to the plow. It seems they are leaking at the fittings them selves where the two connect to each other.

The motor has a vibration in it at low idle only. After it warms up and or at a faster speed the idle smooths out.

Missing heat shield on fire wall.

Cons;

No other apparent leaks. It did at one time have a rear axle leak, but the owner had it fixed.

all receipts included, with the manual.

Belly pan

Well kept, but it does lack a little $20-$30 here and there things that should have been done, But I will have to do as time goes.

Good paint, Good tires, Good rims

Solid Front end

Proper oil and hydro type filters.

Clean frame with no cracks. indication of no oil leaks.

Very good deck. and blade.

No dry rot on hoses.

No tampering with electrical wiring, other than the seat safety switch.

I am sure I will find a few more cons and pros as time goes, but I think i did okay.

Mrbeef, I seen somewhere briefly in one of the vids about fixing the idle problem in the linimar motor. At least i think i did. Did I and where? and what information can you lead me to?

Again thanks.

Art
:fing02:
 
That is great! Glad to hear it is a good machine especially with receipts from repairs.

The vibration at idle, would that be a surge.

In a little bit of a hurry at the moment, but there are three carb videos in the thread I posted. The last video will show the surge at the end to compare how it ran before and after. I will try and remember to post a link in a little bit.
 
The Onan in my 318 shakes like a harley at an idle. I kinda like it :fing32:

I figured the opposed twin engines did vibrate more than a V twin engine. If there not supposed to my idle just may be to low
 
If you turn up the idle screw, it should smooth out the idle. I can't help on its location, as I don't have an Onan to reference.
 
Enjoy your new tractor :) and welcome to MTF. :MTF_wel:
 
D332 is right,if it shakes its idling too low,I think they idle smooth,now my 216 is Harley traited on idle.
 
For anyone else out there DON'T PUSH A STUMP TO TEST THE HYDRO. The front bumper is just formed tin basically and bends easy but fixes hard.

Couplers up front- there is an O-ring up there that should be replaced if leaking. If that doesn't fix-then replace the coupler. Look for wear on the male coupler on the blade as well since it could also cause leakage.

Testing the hydro's. If it works forward/back and doesn't sound like it will blow up then you are likely good to go. Even if they are bad it is around $250 for a good used unit. The diffs I have never seen worn past a needle bearing and even if they are bad the 300 series you almost can buy for free.

Engines are the biggest thing and it runs so you are good.

There can be frame cracks but they all can be fixed. My fathers 430 was the worst out there I have seen and it was even fixable (fixed).

These are a heck of a good tractor and they take implements from the 140-through the 300 series so there is a wide range of equipment that can be had at a good price.

Have fun.
 
2nded: you can try replacing the O-rings in the front couplers, may
be an easy fix for the leak(s).

The firewall insulation: ought to replace that when you can.
Best to get the seat safety switch working correctly.

Seems I've read somewhere that the newer Linamar engines had non-adjustable carburetors & can/may surge no matter what you do - and people have installed older carbs on 'em. Not positive though, check on that.

You did well even if you end up spending time & $$ giving it all some TLC. JDD
 
Seems I've read somewhere that the newer Linamar engines had non-adjustable carburetors & can/may surge no matter what you do - and people have installed older carbs on 'em. Not positive though, check on that.

You did well even if you end up spending time & $$ giving it all some TLC. JDD
Ditto to the above.

JDDottie is correct, the carbs on the newer Linamar engines have an accelerator pump on them. This was a response to emission standards. Bascially, the standards limited the main jet size, there by causing the engine to stumble when it was throttled up. So to prevent this an accelerator pump was added to the carb. The pump will look like a little bubble on the front of the carb.

Here is a picture of the pump:
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And the thread on WFM that might explain the stumbling.
http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/discus/messages/335/124940.html
 
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