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Mowin' Maniac

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I would have asked this question in my previous post but, I thought might get more views as a separate post. For those who have repainted an aluminum deck, how did you go about it? Primer it before painting? The paint I removed from my Snapper seemed not to have primer. I have seen Snapper red paint in a spray can once in a mower parts store. If only I could remember where I saw that. Should I decide to go with a different type of paint, What would be the better type. (I have also considered painting it black. This will be a working mower)

All ideas, opinions, thoughts and your own experience stories are welcome and appreciated. Good or bad.
 
Hi! I have repainted a few Lawnboy decks using the Duplicolor Grabber Green High Temp Engine Enamel. I also repainted an MTD Yardman mower with a steel deck and for that one I used Valspar Implement paint from my local Farm and Fleet store. All the decks were stripped using the Rustoleum brand Zinsser Magic Strip paint and varnish stripper which is water soluable, non toxic, bio-degradeable, and has no fumes. After stripping and washing the deck it was scuff sanded, wiped down, and primed using two coats of Krylon grey primer. Follow up with a couple of coats of the finish paint, let it cure for a week or two, and you are good to go. My preference is to not use a clear coat as I find it easier to spray touch up on the front and sides where the mower seems to rub when being used. If I was creating a show piece then I might consider a clear coat however I don't thing that the Lawnboy finish was clear coat glossy when new. Bill
 
etching primer/sealer. on alum it is a lifesaver. then topcoat in the color of you pleasure:)

that is my experience you're results my vary.
 
I'm in the process of wire-wheeling a 1970 Whirlwind aluminum deck in preparation for making my version of a 1970 Fiesta prototype. Going quite well so far. I avoid chemicals when I can....just don't like working with them.

I have a can of bright fluorescent green spray paint from the local Ace hardware that looks like it will work well for the deck and a medium fluorescent blue for the shroud and accents.

For my standard Toro Whirlwind restorations, I'm going to try a Duplicolor shade made for Chevrolet engines, because it's an orange-red that is closer to the color that came from the factory on the older Toros than straight red.
 
I agree about not using the clearcoat on machines you use, Bill. Touching them up from time to time is nice. I would use clearcoat or powder coat on a rare machine I would hardly use or one I would be selling.


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A few things I've learned about painting...

- You get what you pay for with paint, especially spray cans.
- You get much more out of a great prep job, it allows nice results with even cheap paint.
- Be patient! This is the hard one I know, but rushing things will cause runs, flaws, paint wrinkling, etc. These problems have given me excuses to use many four-letter words. :hide:

One more thing to keep in mind: powdercoating is expensive but not so crazy when you consider the time saving and more durable finish.
 
A few things I've learned about painting...

- You get what you pay for with paint, especially spray cans.
- You get much more out of a great prep job, it allows nice results with even cheap paint.
- Be patient! This is the hard one I know, but rushing things will cause runs, flaws, paint wrinkling, etc. These problems have given me excuses to use many four-letter words. :hide:

One more thing to keep in mind: powdercoating is expensive but not so crazy when you consider the time saving and more durable finish.


till it chips:hide:
 
I had good results with Ace self etching primer and their paint. My problem is that my garage is in my basement, so any oder or fume gets throughout the house. Any painting I do has to be outside, which doesn't work very well.

My company has been powder coating our tool boxes for almost 20 years, and the durability is amazing. I had 2 decks powder coated and love it. The decks have to be media blasted first, which is well worth it. I usually don't do it on flips, but definitely on my own stuff. It doesn't hide blemishes at all though.

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Being an old street rodder, I was told to use zinc chromate on aluminum as a primer. One of my project , a chopped and channeled 1932 Chevy pickup truck that I built in 1973 is still on the road, and the aluminum bed I built still looks like new.

To get a great finish using spray paint, put on many light coats of paint, letting them dry thoroughly between coats. The final coat should be a complete light "wet" coat but stop before you develop runs.
 
For the Snapper red color: If I remember correctly, Rustoleum Regal Red is very close to the Snapper Red on my early 2000's Snapper rider. I'm painting my steel deck on that hopefully in the next month. I'm going to try the Rustoleum high performance professional enamel spray paint instead of the regular Rustoleum spray paint. It costs more but supposedly dries in 15 minutes. The regular Rustoleum spray paint took forever to dry last summer when I painted a different section. Regal Red can also be found in paint that can be used in a spray gun.

I tried some Krylon Cherry Red spray paint and that paint was very transparent. I would describe as a red tinted clear coat and would not recommend.
 
Hi! I have repainted a few Lawnboy decks using the Duplicolor Grabber Green High Temp Engine Enamel. I also repainted an MTD Yardman mower with a steel deck and for that one I used Valspar Implement paint from my local Farm and Fleet store. All the decks were stripped using the Rustoleum brand Zinsser Magic Strip paint and varnish stripper which is water soluable, non toxic, bio-degradeable, and has no fumes. After stripping and washing the deck it was scuff sanded, wiped down, and primed using two coats of Krylon grey primer. Follow up with a couple of coats of the finish paint, let it cure for a week or two, and you are good to go. My preference is to not use a clear coat as I find it easier to spray touch up on the front and sides where the mower seems to rub when being used. If I was creating a show piece then I might consider a clear coat however I don't thing that the Lawnboy finish was clear coat glossy when new. Bill
By doing the process mentioned above, we can do it all by ourselves? I thought about taking it somewhere else for a powder coating.
 
I know the powder coat is much tougher, and also more money. The guys that have invested in powder coat love them. I have always been happy with the results I get from a spray can. Bill
 
It is not a real fast acting product. You brush it on and let it sit, preferably overnight. Then use a putty knife to scrape off most of the gunk. Follow up with a scrubby pad like a Chore Boy and some soap and water. Tough spots may need a second treatment. I like it because, although it is not real fast, there are no odors and it is water soluble and environmentally friendly. Easy to clean up. Light hand sanding after the final rinse was all it needed. No orbital sander. I have used it on a number of decks, metal shrouds, and I first used it to strip diecast model cars for custom paint work. Bill
 
The 'good' products for stripping like the Zinsser (I imagine) contained methylene chloride, which was banned in 2019. They may still be available for commercial use. If you search the internet for paint strippers, you will often see a reference to aircraft stripper. The old formulation was methylene chloride, the new is not and is not effective at all in stripping paint off of mower decks.

In my experience, mehtylene chloride does an ok job at removing powder coat. I've been working at a 10515 deck and after multiple coats, there are still portions that don't come off. It did even worse on a 10525 deck I'm also working on. The days I worked on it weren't particularly hot, so I'm going to try again this summer, along with one of the orange products from Lowes.

I talked to a guy that does standblasting and he said that powder coat is harder to remove than paint. I may drop off a few decks and see how far $100 goes.

Regarding powder coat vs paint, powder coat does make a thick finish that holds up to abrasion, but once you break through it and get some corrosion underneath, game over. It just starts coming off in sheets. I've had enough painted Lawn Boys from the early 80's that had chipped paint, but otherwise looked good, vs powder coated decks from the 90's where 50% of the powder coat peeled off and the deck is mostly exposed aluminum.

I feel there is a misconception out there on powder coat. Once of the reason powder coat became popular was due to environmental regulations regarding paint booths. Many companies needed to make expensive updates to control vapors and powder coating was a cheaper option, not necessarily the better one.
 
It looks like the Magic Strip is a non MEK product that contains some of the same stuff as the Citristrip I tried last year. My experience is similar to Bill's. I've read about wrapping parts in plastic wrap to keep the product from evaporating as well. I have some more decks to experiment with, which I'll probably get going soon.
 
Many places use different types of media when blasting depending on how aggressive they need to be. Bill
 
I've had very good results with Sunnyside Back to Nature Ready-Strip,since I can't seem to find the Zinnser Magic Strip in my area. It's odorless and changes color when ready to remove.I use it in my basement no problem.All other prep procedures are the same as Bill's,rinsing,sanding,etc.I use RustOleum primer and top coat.
 
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