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Echo leaf blower carb question?

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Discussion starter · #61 ·
I just showed dad the picture. He had a idea. I was thinking like what we did at Chevy dealer when someone traded a car with locking lug nuts and no key. We would keep a crap socket and pound it on. This is more finesse though.
 
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#62 ·
Ericjr16 said:
Thanks guys,like I said we worked on engines for a long time. We removed the caps all the time,but never saw these ones before. I was ticked off at assumption I was a home owner with no street smarts! Bad timing on my part. Stress makes you a mean person! I got so peeved that I ran over to garage and brought the pos into house to take pics of carb! :) LOL
My dad is good at making things work, he has idea on tool already. If not he will weld it! HAHA A running joke with us since he got welder!
Click to expand...
I've haven't seen many like that before. I don't think I would have wanted to have Been around you that night lol! ;)
 
#63 · (Edited)
Ericjr16 said:
I just showed dad the picture. He had a idea. I was thinking like what we did at Chevy dealer when someone traded a car with locking lug nuts and no key. We would keep a crap socket and pound it on. This is more finesse though.
Click to expand...
Exactly what I was talking about when I described using the brass tubing and tapping it down onto the D shaped head. The problem is that because they have a thread locking compound on the threads, they can be tough to turn, and that typically strips out the brass tube after a few adjustment attempts.

The good news is that usually it only takes a small amount of movement of the adjustment screw to get the machine to run correctly again. If yours starts easily, idles good, and responds fairly normally to throttle increases, you probably don't need to touch the low speed screw.

If a person had a lathe, this would be a fairly easy tool to make. A piece of hardened rod, drilled in the center, the diameter of the round part of the D shaped head. Then turn the rod down, until it's the correct diameter to fit into the holes in the carb. Lastly, give the tip of the tool a little crimp on one side, as you see has been done in that close-up photo, and you'd now have a D shape, and a "rod" that was strong enough to over power the thread locker, and turn those screws. Know what I mean...:hide:
 
#64 ·
austinado16 said:
Exactly what I was talking about when I described using the brass tubing and tapping it down onto the D shaped head. The problem is that because they have a thread locking compound on the threads, they can be tough to turn, and that typically strips out the brass tube after a few adjustment attempts.

The good news is that usually it only takes a small amount of movement of the adjustment screw to get the machine to run correctly again. If yours starts easily, idles good, and responds fairly normally to throttle increases, you probably don't need to touch the low speed screw.
Click to expand...
You think there's any way to change them out to regular adjustment screws?
 
#67 ·
Wonder if the tip could be cut off a philips screwdriver, and then that chucked up and turned into the tool. It'd be the right kind of steel.

Don't know as though it's illegal to make a tool. Just illegal for a dealer to sell the Echo brand tool to the general public.
 
#68 ·
Get one of those 'magic' screwdrivers with the two sizes of Philips/flat-blade tips. Cut the tip off the small Philips with a hacksaw. Chuck it into a drill press, spin it up and grind it to the diameter you need to fit into the adjusting screw depression. Mount it in a holder, and drill the center to the adjusting screw diameter. Hard part now is getting a 'flat' spot without distorting the 'cylinder'. Someone good with a cold chisel and ball peen could do it without totally messing up the diameter. I don't need one, so someone else can ruin their screwdriver bit...
tom
 
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Discussion starter · #72 ·
YOU GUYS ROCK!! :)
My friend Bob made one also. I called and asked him today. He was a small engine repair until back injury put him out. These tips are going to pops! We will make one. When Bob drops off his, thought of removing the screws altogether to prototype tool and to cut notches into head for normal screwdriver ;). This way ,my friend could do it himself!
 
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#73 ·
Ericjr16 said:
YOU GUYS ROCK!! :)
My friend Bob made one also. I called and asked him today. He was a small engine repair until back injury put him out. These tips are going to pops! We will make one. When Bob drops off his, thought of removing the screws altogether to prototype tool and to cut notches into head for normal screwdriver ;). This way ,my friend could do it himself!
Click to expand...
Sounds like a good idea! Hopefully after all this work that is what the problem is.
 
#74 ·
Eric, the little D shaped ends are so small I'm not sure what you could use to cut a thin enough slot. Maybe a thin metal disc in a dremel? As you can see in your photo, they're tiny.

But taking one out so you could shape a tool around it would be good.
 
#75 ·
Just thought of another way to make that tool. I would use my sinker EDM machine. All I need is the screw removed to take measurements of the head with a caliper. I would then make a copper electrode with same dimensions ("D" shape) and burn it into a prepared hardened mandrel with the correct o.d., which will fit in where these screws are inset. Seems complicated but it's real simple.
 
#76 ·
all3939 said:
Just thought of another way to make that tool. I would use my sinker EDM machine. All I need is the screw removed to take measurements of the head with a caliper. I would then make a copper electrode with same dimensions ("D" shape) and burn it into a prepared hardened mandrel with the correct o.d., which will fit in where these screws are inset. Seems complicated but it's real simple.
Click to expand...
I have learnd alot from This thread. Thank You all.

Necessity is the mother of invention go for it :hide:
 
#77 ·
Whats that two part epoxy stuff called where you roll together the white portion and they black portion till its even gray, and it hardens like metal. Is that a JB Weld product, its the consistency of clay. Put a small wad of that on the end of a regular screw, push it down in to the proprietary head just enough to fill the hole. You could even leave it there permanently if you want. If it falls off, it should still have the shape of the head on it so you could use it as a tool. Another way, if you wanted to just make a tool might be too find a straw that just fit over the screw, roll out a string of the clay, insert it into the straw, slide the straw over screw head, then crush the straw down forcing the clay stuff to the end, down into the screw head...

You said its a D shape? Typically I've been able to find some head on something that gets a grip in there, a flat blade screwdriver the right width should work shouldn't it?
 
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#78 ·
The epoxy is called "Epoxy Steel Putty." I don't know of anything stronger than that.

The idea of a metal tube with the epoxy in the end, forced into the hole in the carb, and then the epoxy forced down (you could ram a metal rod down the tube, like a muzzle loader rifle) is a good one.

As I mentioned, the screws have a thread locker on them, so they are very difficult to rotate without the actual tool. And as you see by how thin the tip of the tool is, there is no room for anything down in there.

But the epoxy in the tip of the tube; I like that a lot.
 
#79 ·
rwall10597 said:
Whats that two part epoxy stuff called where you roll together the white portion and they black portion till its even gray, and it hardens like metal. Is that a JB Weld product, its the consistency of clay. Put a small wad of that on the end of a regular screw, push it down in to the proprietary head just enough to fill the hole. You could even leave it there permanently if you want. If it falls off, it should still have the shape of the head on it so you could use it as a tool. Another way, if you wanted to just make a tool might be too find a straw that just fit over the screw, roll out a string of the clay, insert it into the straw, slide the straw over screw head, then crush the straw down forcing the clay stuff to the end, down into the screw head...

You said its a D shape? Typically I've been able to find some head on something that gets a grip in there, a flat blade screwdriver the right width should work shouldn't it?
Click to expand...
Good idea! I might just try it.
 
#80 · (Edited)
If you go the epoxy route, get some silicone based oil to coat the adjusting screw and the inner wall of the carb depression. The silicone will make the epoxy release from the wall and the adjusting screw. You could get a 'strawfull', loaded back 1/2", with a diameter larger than the hole, push the straw up against the carb, and squeeze some epoxy into the void where the adjusting screw resides. After it cured, you'd have a 'tool' that looks a little like the 'real deal', formed to fit the head, formed to fit into the hole, and flattened on the end where the epoxy was pushed to the carb surface. Get a large straw, and you might have a large enough diameter to have enough leverage to rotate the adjusting screw using just the 'remainder' that was left in the straw. Or not. Only real question is whether the thin wall of epoxy will be strong enough to move the screw without breaking...
tom
 
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